58-59 Toro tractor

myoldtoro

New User
Hi everyone in tractor land! I'm new to yesterdays tractors, it looks like a great site for tractor owners! I own a late 50's Toro golf course tractor that I acquired a couple of years ago, cause I drove one when I was 16, my first job, and quite a few years ago! I'm slowly rebuilding it, and I,m having trouble with the carburetor, I think the one installed is from an early 60's car or truck, linkage just wasn't working right, and would like to know if anyone knows the proper carb. that fits on the inline Ford 6 cylinder, industrial engine, which I believe is a 200 cu.in. Any info. would be greatly appreciately, thanks in advance, Bernie.
 
Welcome Bernie!

Wouldn't know where to begin finding an original carb, probably not going to happen.

I would do some investigating on the existing linkage.

Make sure the governor is working.

You can disconnect the linkage, control the RPM by hand and watch the governor work. Theory is, the harder the throttle speed spring pulls, the faster the engine runs. It's the governors job to control the speed. The spring pulls the throttle open, the governor pushes it closed. A balancing act between the 2 forces.

With the governor link disconnected, play with the RPM, watch and feel the travel of the governor link. You want the governor to be able to push the throttle closed against the idle stop, but still allow the throttle to fully open.

Once you determine the governor is working, and know the travel length, then you can fabricate a linkage that is comparable.
 
(quoted from post at 08:18:59 03/21/17) Welcome Bernie!

Wouldn't know where to begin finding an original carb, probably not going to happen.

I would do some investigating on the existing linkage.

Make sure the governor is working.

You can disconnect the linkage, control the RPM by hand and watch the governor work. Theory is, the harder the throttle speed spring pulls, the faster the engine runs. It's the governors job to control the speed. The spring pulls the throttle open, the governor pushes it closed. A balancing act between the 2 forces.





With the governor link disconnected, play with the RPM, watch and feel the travel of the governor link. You want the governor to be able to push the throttle closed against the idle stop, but still allow the throttle to fully open.



Once you determine the governor is working, and know the travel length, then you can fabricate a linkage that is comparable.

Hi Steve, I omitted to mention that the carb. on the tractor is not working well at all, and I felt that before investing in o/h this carb. I would try finding the proper one?
 
Are you sure that it is a Ford motor? My experience with them was the six cylinder Continental of your vintage and
then eventually the Chevy 250 CI, which you can still get from the stores. But beware that the carb base will have
to be modified for it to fit correctly.
 
Hi Steve, I forgot to mention that the carb. I have is not working very well, needs overhauling, but before investing I am hoping someone can help me with the original part number of the carb. Thanks Bernie
 
Here is how you can identify the ford industrial engines:
Engine Type

Ford 200
No Water Pump
Intake Manifold is part of the Cylinder Head
No Side Cover

Ford 223
Manifolds are on LEFT side of engine when viewed from the REAR of the engine (flywheel end)
One Water Pump; only 3 mounting bolt holes

Ford 240/300
Manifolds are on RIGHT side of engine when viewed from the REAR of the engine (flywheel end)
Two different Water Pumps depending on shaft diameter (5/8" vs.3/4"); each with 4 mounting bolts of varying lengths

If it has a down draft carb it may be a Zenith 33, side draft carb's could be Zenith or Marvel Scribner.

To be more precise we will need more information, Toro's had ID tags on the dash, Ford Industrial engines had letters on the valve cover, carb's and distributors have ID tags, of course pictures will help as well.

If you put "toro golf course tractor" in the search function at the top of the page their are many old post on them in the forum that will come up, that may be of interest to you .
 
Hi everybody, and thanks for the responses! I took some of the numbers down in case it would help. The engine is a ford industrial engine with numbers JF5-1143 S3 4305 S22CC. ( on the 1143 the 3 had been stamped probably with the wrong number and restamped with the 3? ) The body i.d. plate has the numbers 4TC-577 for the tractor and no.4305 for the engine. Thank you Jo Bird, from what you gave me as info. it seems I have a 223 cu.in. engine. Someone had once told me that it was a 200 cu.in. but I have a 3 hole waterpump, and left side manifold. Thanks Robin Hood, but it is a Ford engine, I also have a 54 GMC truck, with the staight 6, similar but different! I had a old 1904 carb. sitting around and it seems to fit right, but researching carbs. there was a possibilty of a Carter carb. for those years as well.
 

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