Alternator Mount - Case SC

Hello all! Well, I am working on converting all of my tractors over to 12 volt with alternator. Farmall M, H, and John Deere A should be easy. My Case SC, however seems to prove a little more difficult as for as mounting goes. Here are my questions:

I picked up 2 Hitachi 14231 alternators as it is smaller and not as 'bulky' as the Delco 10SI (which I have two of, one for my M and one for my JD A). Plan to put the Hitachi on the Farmall H and Case SC. Delco 10SI will go on the JD A and Farmall M. Here are my options or plan of attack at mounting the alternator on the Case:

Option 1) Drill a 3/8 hole through the front flange of the engine block (See photo of screwdriver pointing to marked location, and mock-up placement of alternator). This would leave approximately 1/4" of material left above the hole. I would then mount the alternator using a 3/8" shoulder bolt with sleeve spacers to obtain the correct spacing. The top adjustment bracket would still be used in the factory location (although I would have to make a new one). My only concern is will I risk the front flange of the block cracking through this drilled hole? The tractor doesn't get heavy use - mostly just threshing shows and may get occasional yard chores at our next property.

Option 2) Remove the rear-most tab on the bottom side of the alternator (possibly compromising the strength of the front tab). Mount in the factory generator location. My concern here is the bottom front tab, if it is the only mounting point, will eventually crack or break due to both vibration and the amount of weight that is being held by just the single bottom tab.

Option 3) Mount the alternator in the factory generator location, but this would involve having someone fabricate a custom bottom bracket (as I do not have a welder). This is probably the most secure method, but would be quite involved. I don't have easy access to equipment to do this.

What are your thoughts on this? Would I be better to use a Delco 10SI? It seems that this alternator fits nicely, it is just the mounting that is giving me concerns. (I can always use the Hitachi on the Farmall M, and a Delco on my Case).

I would use one of the Denso style mini alternators and use the existing bolt that is right there. Probably with a very short piece of strap iron with two holes--one to mount the strap iron to the tractor under the existing bolt, and the other to mount the alternator. I've used these with good results. The Denso style has one mounting lug and one adjustment lug, and is small and easy to mount on just about anything. 35 amp, one wire.

I think option 1 will work, with a suggestion.

Make the front spacer as large diameter as possible, a good spacer made on a lathe with good machined ends, drill through with a 13/32 drill.

Drill the block with a 13/32 drill.



Find a large roll pin that a 3/8 bolt will pass through, drill the back ear of the alternator so the roll pin will fit tightly.

Through bolt all the way through with 3/8 bolt, flat washers, and nut. Tighten securely.

I can make you a spacer with dimensions, drop it in the mail. No charge, just cover the postage.

Steve, can you explain your reasoning for the piece of roll pin? Also, I did not see your explanation or you handle on the post the other day. Just curious. By the way, your answers are always top notch!

Ray, the roll pin allows the bolt to be tightened without stressing the back ear of the alternator. The roll pin can slip a little, allowing for easy installation. The blot tightens against the end of the roll pin, not the ear.

It's a common trick the factory uses on many 2 ear alternators.

I used the Delco with the original generator mounting bolt, I changed it up some, and I can't remember exactly what I did, the tractor is 25 miles away or I would get you a pic. No welding required, I bet if you remove the genny mounting bolt you can figure out a simple way to mount it. Seems like I might have reversed the bolt. Sucks to get old and forget. Lol

I have been using alternators as you pictured by cutting off the back ear for the last 10 years and have yet to have a case failure. The challenge is the alternator wants to twist as you tighten the belt, therefore the mounts have to be aligned correctly and stiff.

Good Luck
Rich

Steve,

This is very generous of you! My only concern is, drilling through the block at that point, with that size drill bit, won't leave much material left in the block above the drilled hole. I'd be concerned with cracking even more, maybe?

Hard to really tell from the picture.

The 13/32" drill is standard clearance for a 3/8 bolt, could drop to a 25/64".

But if in doubt, now is the time to go with a different plan.

I would fab up a bracket that that utilizes the 5/8" bolt that holds the front bolster to the engine block, and make tabs on the top of bracket for the alternator. to bolt to.
Loren

Ken,

I'm trying to remember, I think you work in the Rogers area. I am not far from there. I'd be glad to weld you up a bracket as I enjoy welding. However, I have no idea what dimensions you might need. I do not have any Case tractors, just Fords, Farmalls, and MMs. I have converted all to 12 V alternator systems, and they have worked out very well. Email is open if you want to get back to me.

Good Day!

Paul in MN

Sure do appreciate the comments, everyone! I'm still undecided on what to do. You all have given me a LOT to think about and consider. I think I am going to grab one of my 10SI alternators just to see how it lines up versus this one. (I do like this one, though because it is shiny new and blends in well with the nice shiny paint!

Oh well. I'll keep you all posted with photos and video as to what I do with the conversion. (Oh, and if you are curious, all tractors are magneto ignition and will be using an oil pressure switch in-line (see photos). The first photo is the switch installed on the Case SC, and the second is on my 1942 JD A unstyled conversion.

Drill the hole as intended. Make 2 plates from 1/2" thick By 1/25" steel plate about 3.5 " long. drill the plate to match the alt mount new hole, and the engine to bolster bolt shown. Put one on the back side of the engine casting and shim it on the rear side to position the alt forward and back. Put the other one on the front side of the bolster flange and use tubular standoffs fromt and rear of that to position the front side. Replace the bolster bolt with one an inch longer, and tighten. Jim

Drill the hole as intended. Make 2 plates from 1/2" thick By 1.25" steel plate about 3.5 " long. drill the plate to match the alt mount new hole, and the engine to bolster bolt shown. Put one on the back side of the engine casting and shim it on the rear side to position the alt forward and back. Put the other one on the front side of the bolster flange and use tubular standoffs fromt and rear of that to position the front side. Replace the bolster bolt with one an inch longer, and tighten. Jim