Apple and Pear Tree Pruning

Duane WI · Feb 11, 2017

I have a small orchard with 4 pear trees and 6 apple trees. Two of the apple trees are fully mature older trees. The other trees I planted about 12 years ago. I live in Wisconsin. I usually prune the trees in March but this weekends 40 degree weather has me tempted to start early. I have a big problem with water sprouts. I cut them all off each year and each year there are huge numbers of new sprouts. Is there anyway to prevent this? Should I be pruning at a different time of year? Fruit production is pretty good. I get more fruit than I can use or give away.

Thanks for the help.

Stephen Newell · Feb 11, 2017

I've always heard you prune fruit trees in winter when they were dormant.

jeffcat · Feb 11, 2017

Down here in SJ the immigrants were out trimming the peach trees two weeks ago. They keep the trees very short. Highest fruit they might need to stand on a 5 gallon paint bucket. This picture is the blue berries getting trimmed. Most of the fruit stuff gets done around the same time.

Janicholson · Feb 11, 2017

Cut vertical stems to 6 to 8 feet, forcing horizontal branching. Bushy is baetter than leggy. Trim off all suckers (pencil size new branching) unless it is needed to fill in. All suckers lower than 3 feet should go. All root sprouts are likely to be root stock (below the graft) and produce wrong or no fruit. You can tie one inch branches to others with cotton rope across a gap to bend it into shape. Jim

Glen SW Wi · Feb 11, 2017

Check with your county agent. I'm sure UW Extension has publication that will answer your questions. Used to work with Extension.

Cheesehead Fred · Feb 11, 2017

If you can't conveniently hook up with your county agent, your public library will have some books on it. A few photos or drawings and you'll have all you need to get it done. Used to work for a local orchard owner, and he used to say that you could prune whenever the trees were dormant, but have it done a few weeks before the sap starts to flow. The old trees might take a bit more planning and care to get back in shape, and you may want to plan your pruning in two steps if they are very overgrown. Note if you had any fireblight, and use clean tools for pruning.

Bonnan · Feb 11, 2017

Up until recently all pruning was done in the winter; however research has showed a new option.
Summer pruning late July early August. This promotes fruiting growth, i.e. horizontal branches.
Dormancy pruning promotes vegetative growth, i.e. upright growth. Branches trending toward the horizontal allow more sunlight and thus more fruiting. All pruning is a balance between this years production and future years. Lots of info on the web.
Jim B

Jeff NWOH · Feb 11, 2017

There's an orchard a few miles from my house. They were out pruning trees last week. We've had some warm days recently, but the day I saw them out was not one of them.

JD Dave · Feb 12, 2017

The best way is to balance overall pruning. Dormant pruning stimulates re-growth. The heavier the pruning the worse your sucker problem will be. There are many principles and guidelines for fruit tree pruning but you can't accomplish all of them in one year. The is plenty of extension information if you search schools in fruit-growing states.

GordoSD · Feb 12, 2017

I walked out of the shop Friday, it was 55 degrees, no wind, no cloud cover, and like a bolt of lightning "PRUNE". I grabbed the stepladder, bucket and sheares and had 16 fruit trees done in a couple hours.Just a few tall verticals to get with the pole pruner. Front went through last night so will get them today. Nice hoard of sticks for the smoker.

Apple and Pear Tree Pruning

Duane WI

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Stephen Newell

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jeffcat

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Janicholson

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Glen SW Wi

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Cheesehead Fred

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Bonnan

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Jeff NWOH

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JD Dave

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GordoSD

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