Carburator Ferguson 1953 SN T30 122832

Tractor will crank right up with choke out and run perfect. Push choke in and she dies. The fuel screw is out 1.5 turns and has no affect. I'd like to rebuild the carb but I can find no name on it. I hate to assume it is a Marvel Schebler, but most data indicates 1951 - 1953 were Marvels. Here is a picture of it. I can't see any data on it.

Welcome loucksgl!

The picture didn't come through...

Real good chance that is a Marvel Schebler carb.

If it is an original, the name is usually cast into the flange where it mounts to the manifold, and it will be made of cast iron. And there would be a round brass tag riveted to the side with some letters, like TSX.

There are also a lot of aftermarket replicas, they are usually aluminum.

These are simple carbs. If you are careful, it may come apart without tearing the gasket, then it could go back without a kit.

There are 2 fuel mixture adjustment screws. The smaller top screw is the idle mixture. If it is clogged, it won't idle without the choke. On this carb, it adjusts backward from most. The screw regulates the air mixed with the idle feed, so turning the screw IN richens the idle mix, OUT leans it.

The other screw, the larger one, is the main jet adjustment. It operates as a fuel adjustment screw, so backing it out will richen the main mixture.

You might try adjusting the idle again, start with it about 1 1/2 turns off the seat. If it is working, you would back it slowly out until the idle falters, then back in to best idle, then about 1/8 more turn in.

The main jet is a little tricky to adjust. Start about 2 turns off the seat. Set the engine for full governed speed. Bring the engine to idle, then suddenly open the throttle. The engine should take full throttle without hesitation. Start turning the main adjust in 1/4 turn at a time until the engine stumbles on acceleration. Then back the screw out 1/4 turn at a time, repeating the test until it will take sudden acceleration without hesitating. A single puff of black smoke is desirable.

Of course, before doing carb work, make sure everything else is in good order. The air cleaner mesh needs to be clean (a commonly over looked item), the points, distributor (check for shaft wear and be sure the centrifugal advance is free and working), timing, all ignition components, fuel condition (fresh and not contaminated with water or rust) and the valve lash is set.

Here is some carb info that will be helpful.
Carb Info

Are you getting adequate fuel flow to the carb?

If it takes a choke to run than your mixture is too lean or you don"t have adequate flow to run above idle. If you can"t adjust it out, you may have restricted fuel flow a dirty carb, or an air leak around the carb metering section causing excessive leaning of the mixture. With the engine running near idle CAREFULLY spray some starting fluid around the carb throttle shaft, the carb to manifold connect flange, and the cylinder head to block connection. Look for cracks and rust holes in the manifold itself. The engine will speed up when you hit the leak.

If you don"t find a leak then you"ll need to pull the carb and make sure the carb is clean

Thanks. I found out today that the tank has to come off for a clean out. Dirt actually plugged the the filter and line to the carb. Unscrewed the glass bowl from the tank and the gas would not pass through till I poked a screwdriver up into the tank. Tank comes off, major cleaning, new glass filter/on/off, fuel line and I think I'll just buy a carburator new and be done with it. Thank you for your considerate reply. I appreciate it.

If you decide to buy new and get rid of the old one,
I'd be interested in the old one.

I made a note of it. Thanks