JD 4320

Hey guys I'm looking at getting a 1971 or 72 4320. Are these good tractors? I found one on tractorhouse with a bad motor for 9500. Someone check it out and tell me if that is a nice tractor? I don't think its worth that buy maybe it is? thanks

They are good tractors, but 4320s are collectable, so they command a high price. Most other tractors that age with a bad motor would sell for around $3,000 salvage value. Figure $5,000 or more to fix the engine. For $15,000 you can buy a newer 4430 with a much better cab.

4320 is around 115 hp., I believe? Way too much money for one with a blown engine. Might as well figure you are going to put $10,000 in the engine. There will be other things that need fixing, too, you can bet on that. Make your offer with that in mind. If it turns out to be something simpler, then you got a bargain for a change. They were nice handling tractors. The 20 series JD's had the best power steering and brakes of the era. Performance wise they weren't bad, but certainly not a class beater.

The JD guys can chime in here and correct me if I'm wrong but I wouldn't feel comfortable offering much over half that price.

9500 seems a little steep for a bad motor. Especially when you can not be assured of the other internals of the tractor. I agree a 4430 would be the way to go for an everyday use tractor especially if the pistons and sleeves have been upgraded. Even 4440's are getting to be more reasonable.

Still looking for your '20 series Deere with a turbo ? I agree with the others. You will have a bunch of money tied up into that motor. Will you actually be using it for field work ? If so there are newer tractors available for what you will have into that one. If you are dead set on a '20 series to fix up or restore without actually using it you have deeper pockets than I do ! Only you know how much money you want to spend when it is all done.

yes 115 horsepower. If I rebuilt the engine my self with a 2000 dollar rebuild kit how would it cost 10,000? Is there something else that I'm not aware of that it would take. I should've described the tractor a bit better. It starts and runs but has low compression.

Can't you put a combine motor in those though? I'd think you might find a real rough 7700 or something for a little bit of nothing,take the motor off and scrap the rest and come out alright.

You are forgetting that you will need to redo the head and maybe the crankshaft which can easily cost $2000 and the pump and injecters could run $1000-1500 and a high hour tractor might need a cam as well. Just did a 4020 for a customer and had $5000 in parts alone so plan for the worst and hope for the best. That tractor is overpriced with a bad engine. Local auction last month had a nice 4320 with a cab that brought a little over $10,000 and it ran good and had good sheet metal.Same sale had a good 4430 cab tractor that brought 10,200. Tom

A $2000 rebuild kit doesn't include crack work, cam work, head work, injection pump or injectors, turbo, radiator or any of the numerous other things that can be bad. Maybe you won't find those to be bad, but maybe you will. And you still haven't gotten into the clutch, hyd, pto, brakes or cosmetics. 10k is much closer to reality than 2k in most cases, and 20k is not out of the questiin. Of course you could get lucky.

Marcus, you blast these questions on here without any background information and expect answers. We went through all the turbo posts on the 4020, then what is it worth to sell.

Please state what your goals are, is it for showing, resale, farming, pulling, and we can help.

I'm pretty sure you can, a guy I know put a 6600 combine motor in a 4010. I have no 9dea what that took, but I know he did it.

Ya,I thought some of those were pretty simple. Manifold and water pump or some such thing.

I think a combine engine would wipe out much of the collector value of any 4320.

Only if you're looking for matching numbers. They were 404s weren't they? What's the difference? As long as you didn't stick a 329 in it.

I could be wrong, but I think Marcus is in high school and may be looking for an FFA project.

You're right, for a working tractor it probably would not make much difference. Collectors would notice the non-factory engine or be extremely embarrassed when someone pointed it out.

For $9,500 or less I think Marcus could find a choice of nice 4020s with combine engines already installed.

haa, 2000.00 hardly a start. listen to the guys with experience telling u. its john deere and 10,000 can be put into any engine.have "you" checked or witnessed the compression check???

Combine engine or factory reman short block,I don't why either would change the value as long as it was a 404.

If that's the case I can admire taking on such a project but why not choose something being a little more wallet friendly ? I have never owned a Deere but they seem a little pricey to work on. We have two Oliver's between 80 and 110 HP. 1755 was bought with cab and good sheet metal, OK tires and runs great. 5500. Our 1750 has a charger, engine updates,oil cooler, and new injectors. It's set up like a 1950t or 1955. Have about 8500 in that one and looks nice. I know that they aren't John deer but are good tractors. Point is maybe there are better tractors out there for the money if this is an ffa project. Maybe a case, allis, or massey ?

Alright David heres the scoop. I'm a high school student but I'm homeschooled and not looking for FFA project. I'm considering starting a haying business here in our valley and the 4020 I own at the time is going to need to much work and stuff. I may also be working for a custom farmer which is why I want to get a bigger tractor. The reason I'm looking at these tractors that need fixed is because I want experience in mechanics and diesel engines. I would like to eventually become a tractor mechanic. I don't know much as of now which is why I "blast" these questions at you guys. So for the most part I want a good solid workhorse of a tractor for farming. I have been interested in the 20 series which is why you here all these questions about them. Thanks and I hope you can see why I ask these questions now. If not enough information was supplied for you or anyone else about it let me know and Ill be glsd to give you the full scoop. Thanks all for your patience and consideration.

Mental retardation comes to mind!

I posted below about possibly a different tractor brand. I am not sure of your location or dealer support. Is this why you chose Deere ? I there are many other good tractors out there that will do what you want and probably cost less. Where I live in n.y. Deere is the highest priced by quite a bit.

I don't know why it would cost so much to fix the tractor. I bought a 4430 with a bad engine and bought a 7720 combine engine for $2500 and a few small expenses. It probably cost me $3000 total plus $7000 for the tractor and I have a good tractor now. Most combine engines don't get as many hours as a tractor and are usually in good shape.

Just my .02 Marcus. You are witnessing "tough love" Yesterdays Tractors style. Simply put, these people just don't want you to make the same mistakes already made by many. We are all parents and/or grandparents and as such , we strive to make our offsprings life better and easier if we can. That's what you are hearing here. Hopefully it makes your skin a little thicker as you read and learn. All have your best interest at heart no matter how it comes across. Lot to be learned here from a lot who have learned it the hard way. Best "tough love" you will find. Good luck with your farming and all you set out to do. "Learn from the mistakes of others, as you can't live long enough to make them all yourself".

See post above. I may be mentally retarded but I'm trying to learn and I'm glad I have you guys to keep me from making mistakes that could cost me.

Has anybody looked at this 4320 on the Tractor House website? Just wondering because from the pictures it looks like a really nice tractor. Thanks

Good on you Marcus!!! You have some good career goals there.

Over the last 50 years many young people have gotten their start in good paying skilled trades through high school sponsored co-op jobs. Students work part time for a skilled trade business: plumbers, electricians, mechanics, construction, computers, etc. The business gets generous tax incentives for helping students and the students get training, practical experience and a pay check. It might be easier to learn diesel mechanics working under someones guidance, working on someone else's expensive parts, and drawing a paycheck in a co-op program than it would be to dive-in alone paying for your own parts in the school-of-hard-knocks. Check with your school district, you should be eligible to participate even if you are home schooled.

Marcus,

I was anxious at that age, but best to have patience.

A 4020 makes a real nice haying tractor, it can run good sized MoCo and pull baler with full racks. You already have the 4020, it is paid for, and can do a lot of work. There is very little difference in the amount of useful work a 4020 can do versus a 4320. We farmed about 200 acres with 4020, Ford 6610 and Farmall H. The only thing that worked the 4020 very hard was the 12 row planter, and a 4620 was purchased this year for that purpose, but the 4020 will remain as the primary hay tractor. I would want a LOT bigger tractor than the 4020 if doing heavy tillage, and a smaller tractor for raking, teddering and moving things around.

I would figure out what you really will be doing BEFORE buying equipment, you may not want another similar sized tractor, might be a lot smaller or a lot bigger. Hold onto your cash as long as possible and make sure there is a real need before purchasing. Once you figure out what the tractor will be doing there are folks here to counsel you.

Marcus,

Please read what we have posted.

If it starts and runs doubt needs much. If compression is low won't start first. But if you are going to help your buddy custom farm, you will need something reliable. Back in 1983 I Had a 4010 lap gas. I had a job and farmed at night. Bottom line 4010 wasn't reliable enough to farm at night. Also I worked at a Moline dealer for a few years,had a 423cu. U pulling tractor. So a little bit mechanical . No-till beans were getting popular. So I bought a new Great Plaines no-till drill and new Allis tractor with cab and air. Ran them hard to pay for them! Lots of 4hr. Sleep nights. Plus I hired help to drive it during the day. Still have them. Now you can buy a kubota for no money down and no intrest for I think 5 years. All you need is a job for it. But what ever you do buy a cab tractor! At least a 4430. I have helped put a combine engine in a 4040. (404) Not very hard. Just changed oil pan and manifolds and a few other things on the front. Left Inline diesel pump (turned it down 1/4 turn) took off turbo. Need 4320 manifold to fit under hood. What ever you do, plot a course, stay with it and most important have fun! Vic

Ss55,I have never heard of a High School co op program. tell me a little more about it! I tried to get a job with a local tractor mechanic but he said no he couldn't keep me busy.

I will accept your advice as it is roblably true and you have had experience. I would like to have a do all tractor for haying and pulling a disc and some other tillage equipment.

Is it this one? Here's what it says about it."Compression is low, tractor will start and run but tractor is in need of an engine OH, has a rebuilt fuel pump.".
There are others on there in the same price range that don't make claims to have engine problems. Is there a reason for wanting this one instead of,for example,the one with a factory cab for $10,750? Then there's this one for $9900. "Duals, front weights, cab with two missing windows & a missing door. Runs good"
4320

We are trying to point you in the right direction. What would help is what is your TOTAL tractor budget for your new business ? That would really help us out ! I mean a running tractor with no repairs, good tires, and field ready ?

Yes that's the one. I prefer no cab which is why I didn't pay much attn to the other ones. The reason I was attracted to that one is so I could gain experience wirking on it. Thanks

I don't have an actual budget at the point but I'm willing to do small repairs on a tractor.

You will want a cab if you do much round baling. I know where I can buy a very well cared for 4230 that runs good and looks good for $11,000. Probably should have already bought it, but I think I will try to retire from my day job a few years early instead. So I think that is too much money for a 4320 that needs engine work. I too have become interested in 20 series deeres. In the last two years I picked up a gas 3020 for $1800, which I proceeded to fix up for about $4000 more. Then I found a 2510 diesel for $4,300, which I have put about $4,000 more into. They are both decent tractors now, and I plan to use one on the sweetcorn planter and one on the hay mower. But it always costs way more than you would think to put them back into the shape you can be proud of. Best bet to to find a little older restoration that some other schmuck put the money into, and his heirs are just trying to liquidate.

What about the one for 11,500 with 4872 hours? Looks like it needs paint.

Check with your school district, maybe with your local community college too. I graduated high school in 1973 Iowa. About 20 male and female students out of 500 juniors and seniors were enrolled in afternoon co-op work programs. Spaces were limited to the businesses that participated. Those who were accepted got a lot out of it.

Hi Marcus. Wow, you sure set a trip wire.

I have a 4320 with a Hinson Factory Cab. I paid $9500 quite a few years ago, it's been a great tractor. It drives great and is getting collectable as has been pointed out. As I have gotten older the cab has gotten too noisy/vibration for me so I set out to find an upgrade. Mine also needs a front Main Pump and a clutch which I plan to fix.

In my search for an upgrade I wanted the size of a 7xxx JD cab but I could not bring myself to spend that much. I looked at just another 4320. Two sold at two different Mecum (spelling) auctions for about $17000, were in nice shape. I am also aware of another that a student rebuilt for school, it sold for $18000. I tell you this so you know what nice ones are worth. I purchased a 4250, it has everything I need. I wish the cab was a little bigger but I will adjust. I am a big guy. By the way, the only negative I know of on the 4320 is I have always heard the clutch may be a little undersized. I decided I wanted to move into the 30, 40, 50, and 55 series to gain the benefits of the Gen II tractors and they were in my price range.

Regarding the $9500 4320 on Tractor House, I thought Alex Kerr Tillage had a business rebuilding these tractors but in my opinion their prices were too high. Maybe that's why I no longer see those really great looking tractors they had. I saw that ad and looked at it again. I certainly would not give $9500 for it. It looks to be repainted, sometimes that also is a red flag. It looks repainted but no other apparent or mentioned fixes. Hours are not given or even commented on. All of this makes me concerned about the rest of the tractor. If you are still interested you should talk to Alex Kerr Tillage. I think you can do much better, 4320 or other.

Donald Lehman and tomstractorsandtoys had good comments below.

Bottom line, since you seem to know JD, you can find a better 4320 or consider upgrading to a 44x0. I am thinking you want a tractor to fix up without major major risk. And of course it depends on your budget.

Good luck with your project, my son restored the 2510 I uploaded for his Senior Exit Project. Keep good records, take pictures and keep all your replaced parts in case you have to present the tractor to the public.

Paul

Thanks Paul your post encouraging!

If it were me starting a business I would start with at least a decent running tractor. Putting an engine in one isn't a small repair. I admire your ambition but don't get started off with something that needs a lot of work like an engine. Start out as best as you can afford.

In my never to be humble opinion,for what little it's worth,if you want a good user tractor,buy a good user tractor. Then if you want something to gain mechanical experience with,buy some cheap junk little off brand utility tractor that will have no bearing on your ability to make a living if you make a huge mistake.

I am going to re-affirm many of the comments shared by others and also share my own experiences. First of all, I believe the money asked for this tractor is rather high at $9500, or $9900. The pictures may look nice, but seeing in person is truly believing. Looking at the photos, it looks like it has been a fresh repaint. Paint can cover a lot of sins for a relatively short period of time. I went to an auction and looked at a 4620 that looked sharp from about 100 feet. The closer I got, the worse it looked. There were oil/grease spots that weren't removed or cleaned up before painting. I saw the rear view of this tractor and could see the hydraulic outlets covered in green paint. Looked like a quickie rush job. Now, on to the cost of an engine overhaul. I am not able, nor do I have the experience, to do the mechanical work on a farm tractor involving major repairs or rebuilding. With that, if you are going to do the engine overhaul right on that 4320, I suspect you are going to have about as much money tied up in the parts to overhaul that engine as you would in the purchase. The overhaul kit will be a fraction of the cost. You are probably going to need the crankshaft ground or polished, or if the engine has serious issues, the crankshaft might need replacement. I suspect the camshaft will need replacement. You will need to get into the head, maybe have it planed, and probably have the valves renewed. Injection pump and injectors likely need to be rebuilt. How about the oil pump, water pump, and turbo. A 4320 is a very appealing tractor to me. It happens to be the first diesel tractor I learned to operate, and I spent a lot of time plowing with one. I had a 4640 overhauled a couple years ago and we did a complete out of frame overhaul. Everything I told you about prior, covers what was done to that tractor. The work was done at a shop we do regular business with. The total cost was well above $10k. There are some who may think we overpaid. Maybe we did. Maybe we should have bought a Re-man engine. I don't know for sure. I DO know that 4640 will last a long time and I am happy with the performance of that tractor now. I will switch gears a bit in sharing my own experiences. I wanted to be a farmer in the worst way from when I was a kid. I didn't become one until I was 40. It was not meant to happen at an earlier age. There were simply too many obstacles in the way. My father was not aggressive in increasing the size of the operation in order to bring me into the operation. He was not of the BTO mindset, nor did he overextend himself in order to get a "financial restructuring" like so many of the BTO's got. I was forced to go out on my own, work for others, gain a lot of experience and knowledge through the school of hard knocks. I learned a great deal about business management, finance, I gained confidence in my own abilities, and I am in a financially rewarding career. I don't farm half the county, but I do run a decent farming operation where I can put all my earnings from that farm back into the operation itself. I spent a lot of time being around people who were successful in their businesses, both farm and non-farm businesses. I have also had to deal with the public in my off farm career, which has taught me a great deal about how other people need to be and should be treated, rather than being used and abused by those people who can be classified as "south ends of north facing horses." In closing, my experiences have involved a lot of hard work, and not always having things go the way I wanted them to. I can generally understand the lessons I learned from not having things go my way. Had I been able to come back to the farm when I wanted to, the odds were probably more in favor of failure than success because I lacked the financial means and the business savvy to better understand how and why certain things needed to be done. Enough said.

Since I started my long winded post I see a lot of other good comments have come in. Consider your skills, what you want to take on, and your budget (and if you have some backup dollars). These guys seem to be coming up with some good candidates. I am hoping you have some local mentoring as well as this site.

If you want further inspiration, there is a young man that took on a JD 45 combine on YouTube. It is unbelievable what he did.

Paul

If you are planning on starting a business and also doing custom work for someone else, you want a decent tractor that has a good transmission and engine in it, not one that has a new paint job and possibly a bad engine in it that you can learn to work on just when you need it most. Former friend had a 4020 that he used for his main tractor, did everything he asked of it. Save your money and fix your tractor a little at a time.

Do you know which video it is? Thanks!!

Don't be afraid to take the cab off from one. I have one my dad bought and I drove home from OH to MI back when I was 14ish. I'm now 54. I four years ago removed the cab. Unbolt and remove. You would need to find some fenders to put on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSQ1L98p-qs

People are advising not to over-commit and/or take on too much risk if your starting a business, good advice.

Paul

That video is incredible!!!!

(quoted from post at 18:19:09 02/07/17) As long as you didn't stick a 329 in it.

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329 or any other Dubuque/Mannheim/Saran manufactured engine would require a lot of modifications such as a special flywheel housing in order to fit a Waterloo built tractor.

I agree $9500 is about 3 times too much money for a tractor with a bad engine

Tom i don;t know where you get a crank ground but $2000 is way over board even if you included the head work

See post above. I may be mentally retarded but I'm trying to learn and I'm glad I have you guys to keep me from making mistakes that could cost me.

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Congratulations, marcus. You handled that way better than I would have.

The person who called you that gets upset when he is [u:b97a7c022c]forced[/u:b97a7c022c] to read your posts. Hmmmm, he keeps doing the same thing, expecting different results. They call that something....

It was overpriced but that included all new valves and seats and planning the head as well as cooking the block,doing the rods and installing the cam bushings as well as the crank.

The only things i send out are crank grinding and rod sizing the rest i can do a lot cheaper than you quote. i can get a 404 in tip top shape for $5000.00 or less have been doing it since 1965 the first 4010 Diesel i did in 65 cost the owner $600.00 new sleeve kit, Brg and gaskets oil filter and oil also labor. M&W sleeve kit list price was $150.00

I still have much to learn. I would like maybe to do my own heads and rods but with limited help and a farm to run as well I am not sure I will get that far.I wish I would have learned more in school as I struggle with understanding dial indicaters and micrometers. You mentioned M&W kits,I have them in two of my 3020's and a 4020. My supplier told me they are no longer available.Tom

Might not be the popular opinion, but as other people have mentioned, you could find a 7720 motor for it. I have a good friend that put a 7720 motor in his 4320 in diesel tech. It made plenty of power on the dyno but he detuned it so he could use it on his farm reliably. That was 10 years ago or so and he still uses it just about everyday.