allis CA motor assembly help!!

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Just put head back on. Some push rods (?) aren't touching the rocker arm. Missing just enough to rattle. Do I just turn the screw? Thanks also do those little rods just sit down in motor?
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first make sure the bottom of the pushrods are seated in the lifters then you will need to adjust the rockers to get correct valve lash
 
EACH of them need to be adjusted after reassembly. Do you have a service manual, like I&T AC-11? Loosen the locknut, turn the bolt to adjust. The pushrods mate with the camshaft lobes. Each pair is adjusted with the valves for that piston closed, and piston at TDC.
 
I''m no Allis man but did you check to see if all the push rods are the same length? If your just replacing the head gasket the valve clearances should not be that far off if they were not taken loose. But if valve work was done they could be. Hopefully you do know the screws you want to turn are what sets the valve clearance. A method for a beginner would be to turn the engine until one valve of the cyl. is open then adjust the other. Continue until all have been set. Check push rod lengths first though. Sounds like you need a repair manual.
 
I'm in over my head! Lol. Little background. Motor stuck. Pulled head. Filled cylinders with atf soaked for 6 weeks. Little gas in there. Set on fire. Still stuck. Oh well. Sell as is. Put head on. Thought push rods would just sit back in easy.
 
Any time you pull the head of of any engine the push rod need to be adjusted even if they go back in the same place due to the fact not all head gaskets are the same. So any time you assemble and engine you need to adjust the valves as per spec.

As for knowing it there in correctly simple turn the engine over by hand and watch to make sure the push rod move as they should
 
For a green hand setting valve lash (rocker arm to valve stem clearance) find the TDC line on your timing on the compression stroke. (both rocker arms on number one cylinder all the way up)which means both push rods are all the way down. Take a 5/8" box end wrench and loosen a lock nut. Leaving the wrench on the lock nut take a screw driver and adjust the clearance to a snug sliding fit on a .012 feeler gage and holding the screw driver so it will not turn, tighten the lock nut. Move to the second rocker arm and do the same. Next do the number two cylinder by turning the engine just enough to have both rocker arms all the way up as it was on number one. Then following the firing order do the same on number four cylinder. then move to number three. Doing it this way you follow the firing order of 1-2-4-3. This also helps under what is happening to make an engine run.
By understanding how the valves work you can then take any engine and find the firing order by removing the valve cover or covers and turning the engine by hand and mark each cylinder as both rockers are both up after finding the compression stroke on number one.

I am a big believer in the many details of the running engine learned when working on them rather than just assembling them and hopping for the best. In my opinion it makes it more fun.
 
To add to what old said, when you turn the push rod in the lifter it will turn smooth and easy. It you miss the center of the lifter it will not turn smooth and you will be able to look down and see the bottom of the push rod is off center.
 
Sorry, I didn't see you didn't get it unstuck! If it is still stuck who ever buys it will have to remove the head anyway so don't worry about it.
 
Hey Old. Talked to you on the phone a while back about this tractor. Wife and I have decided that with work, kids, grandkids, and life in general, we would be better off just selling as is. Hate to. But I'm a great carpenter -not so much a mechanic! Lol. It's listed in classifieds. Got equipment with it or separate. Got 3 running tractors. No need to wear ourselves out with this one.
 
All the parts are back on. Still stuck. I'm thinking sell it as is. Maybe get $500.? Best thing is straight metal and brand new rear tires. My son wants a belly mower for his cub and a disk plow. Anyone wanna trade?! (am I allowed to ask on here?)
 
Tractor is from a farm in Mississippi was bought in 1952 with all the equipment. When the farmer died his daughter got it in the estate 15 years ago. Stayed in a barn for 3 years then her husband went and got it with plans to restore cancer got him before he could get to it. So it sat out side for 11-12 years. Manifold rusted through and motor stuck. We are not as mechanically inclined as we thought. Lol. Make an offer on it all or........ thanks.
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Perhaps a stupid question; but are you sure it isn't stuck somewhere else? Like the starter drive? Or transmission shaft?
 
Can't hand crank turn it in neutral. Also when we filled cylinders up with atf the front and back ones drained out into oil pan. Middle 2 didn't. Starter is fine on it.
 

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