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Tractor Restoration

T

Ted in NE-OH

Well-known Member
Is there a proper order of operation? Currently I: 1.evaluate the problems 2. Completely disassemble the tractor and power wire brush everything 3. Overhaul engine if needed 4. Rebuild rear end with new seals and rebuild as necessary the transmission. 5. Do all other mechanical repairing all worn points. 6. Completely assemble tractor and make sure everything fits, is complete and operates as it is supposed to 7. Disassemble do body work as needed 8. Prime and paint 9. Install new tires as needed.


Your comments please, is there a better way?
 
I have enough confidence to assemble it as you do, but just enough to run the engine to tune it, (lawn mower tank for gas) Then complete the assembly and paint. It may not be a wet look 4 coat with a clear coat trailer queen paint job, but it is what the factory did, and that is more like the reality of a tractor I can use. Jim
 

My suggestion is on step six, to leave the sheet metal off while you test run it and do whatever you find needs doing at that step, then test fit the sheet metal as part of your body work step. Pretty much all tractors had the chassis assembled and painted at the factory before sheet metal, electric, seat, tires/wheels radiator etc. were added.
 
Probably too late to say this ..but...as with cars , the costs are pretty similar whether you restore a tractor worth $ 6000 when done or one worth $ 20,000 when done. Example : A '69 Mustang Mach 1 or a '69 Boss 429... $ 35,000 / $ 200,000 + . One main step no one has mentioned yet...you need total acceptance and approval of wife/girl friend first.
 
I am working on what will be a trailer queen. It is a rare Allis Chalmers IB with a factory cab and a snow plow. I only know of 3 others of this combination and one is in a museum in Canada. Anyone know of any more.?
 
Why in heavens name would anybody buy a new foreign made piece of plastic with all kinds of emission problems. Not me. I have a new 1952 and a 1977 model and I don't have near the price of a new a tractor in them either.
a247515.jpg

a247516.jpg
 
Sharp 4600! Last brand new tractor my Dad bought, around 1980, was a 4600. Good machine. Ben
 
I start with the engine since it is usually the most expensive part to repair (Now days though tires might be the most expensive). I like to see if I can get the engine running and evaluate it.
 
I think we all forgot your main question which was if it was about the correct order. Yes, you pretty much have it. Sorry if sometimes we all get wrapped up in giving our opinions and forget that you only asked one question and few stuck to answering that. It is apparent that you have already taken into consideration all the points that everyone has made. Good luck with your project and post some "in progress" pics along the way if you will. RB
 
That's what I'd like to know. If that comment was directed to the original poster, what he laid out sure sounds like a restoration to me.
That's a lot more than mine get!!
(But I don't represent mine as being restored either, because they are not.)
 
DPittman, Rich's toy's.....Restored tractor,EVERY bolt and nut taken out,All componets rebuilt, engine and clutch,trans,rearend,brakes,stearing, new stearing wheel,gauges,seat,tires,paint,decales,starter,alt,rad,power stearing and many more things I missed......referbished get it runnin good and shifting good,power wash stop all leaks, good matching tires, nice paint job, new decales, everything working......nice tractor
 
(quoted from post at 09:39:00 01/07/17) I think we all forgot your main question which was if it was about the correct order. Yes, you pretty much have it. Sorry if sometimes we all get wrapped up in giving our opinions and forget that you only asked one question and few stuck to answering that. It is apparent that you have already taken into consideration all the points that everyone has made. Good luck with your project and post some "in progress" pics along the way if you will. RB
Click to expand...

Randy, did you actually read all of the posts that you are referring to?
 
="stonerock"](reply to post at 10:26:47 01/07/17)
Click to expand...
You know, I have been a member for quite a while, it is answers like this is what would probably get me kicked off this forum. This guy is doing a good job on his tractor and someone just wants to pi-- on his parade.
 
Showcrop...yours is the only one..including my own first post, that actually answered his question. I was replying to Teds post right above mine and was basically apologizing for my own oversight of his original question. I reserve the right to do that. When I said that many posts went far beyond his actual question (including my own) it was an accurate statement...not ridicule. I will be more careful and just apologize for myself from now on and word it differently. It's all good.
 
XJohn, how many tractors have you restored? how many do you use on your farm?...now Ted is wanting a trailer
queen, different story again..Ted you are going to do a good job, just watch your money!
 
My only comment is on step 2 with the wire wheel. All non engine, non trans parts can be better restored with an industrial sandblaster. I did the body/frame of a 1952 Studebaker coupe and the savings in time with a wire wheel was far better than the cost of the sand blasting. Also provides a better substrate to take primer than wire wheel finish. Of course, first you would use paint remover and a scraper for the easy stuff. For the engine and trans, it's dangerous to use a sand blaster. Hard to keep the engine sealed up, unless you are going to go for a complete rebuild of both, I would just paint strip, then wire wheel those.
 
(quoted from post at 09:45:32 01/08/17) My only comment is on step 2 with the wire wheel. All non engine, non trans parts can be better restored with an industrial sandblaster. I did the body/frame of a 1952 Studebaker coupe and the savings in time with a wire wheel was far better than the cost of the sand blasting. Also provides a better substrate to take primer than wire wheel finish. Of course, first you would use paint remover and a scraper for the easy stuff. For the engine and trans, it's dangerous to use a sand blaster. Hard to keep the engine sealed up, unless you are going to go for a complete rebuild of both, I would just paint strip, then wire wheel those.
Click to expand...

You need to include the rear axle in the same category as the engine and trans what with the axle seals, rockshaft seals and PTO seal, which can be hurt by the media if not well shielded.
 
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