Pto shaft material

300jk

Well-known Member
I want to build a new pto shaft for the 3 pt blower I have. I thought I had a good idea which was cutting both ends off the hollow tube that I have which is kinked and re welding the ends on. The pipe I have would sleeve over both ends of the existing tube after I cut it to length. I thought that would work well sliding the new pieces over the existing tube cause it would help keep it square. Just talked to a friend who told me no way. He said I would never get it square enough and will take out the u joints. I have welded shafts together before using angle iron to keep them lined up. Is this so much different ? Am I missing something ?
 
All I want to do is replace the tubing in the middle . I will be using both ends and sleeving over top of what is there.
 
Make it as straight as possible and put sheet metal screws in it to hold it. Put the yoke on the PTO spine and set the far end in a wooden V block. Turn it by hand while measuring out of round to a jackstand under it (or something that it just clears. Adjust till it is straight within .005". Tack weld it in 4 places on the splice and check it again. Then weld opposite sides for an inch till it is welded. Should be OK. Jim
 
I weld them up all the time. I do use a square to make sure they are close to square. A PTO shaft only spins around 540RPM so it is not like it is going super fast.
 
(quoted from post at 19:43:37 01/02/17) The couplings/u-joint housings are cast iron. The tube mild steel. Use appropriate welding techniques.

I think you'll find most u-joint housings are cast steel and weld well.
 
I would cut the existing tube in the center, leaving the ends on. Then cut the outside sleeve a little short & drill 1/2 inch holes to plug weld it after putting it together.
 
I have done it the way you describe many times with no problems, an implement PTO shaft is a lot more forgiving than a driveline on a vehicle, plus you have a 3 point hitch implement keeping the PTO shaft more or less straight compared to a pull type implement. A blower probably does not take much HP to run anyway, not like a bush hog or a grinder mixer. Basically, the size of the shaft installed by the manufacturer will dictate how critical it is to have the driveline perfect, a small shaft made of thin wall material indicates a lot more room for error than a heavy CV driveline or equivalent.
 
If you could have someone with a lathe turn off the welds at each end of the tube you could then install a new piece of driveline tubing and be back to "as new".

As I hope you are aware, no matter how you proceed you need to observe how the yokes are "timed" and have that back correct before welding.
 
I've done it with a pipe cutter. Yes,you're right,best to have a good square end like that.
 

I don't see how you can slip one piece over both ends and have it fit both ends, when one of your existing ends fits inside the other.
 
(quoted from post at 06:07:21 01/03/17)
I don't see how you can slip one piece over both ends and have it fit both ends, when one of your existing ends fits inside the other.

Different size sleeves each end.
 
I've welded many a shaft as you describe.Clamp to a angle iron,tack first. Inspect,then weld er up!
 
The ones that I've rebuilt,the U joints had a step down that slid in to the tube. I cut them all the way back to the weld then used a tube from a PTO shaft the same size. I cut the tube to length with a pipe cutter,slid it on the U-joint and re welded it.
 
Hi, some times the square shaft is wider one way than the other so it goes together properly . That is to make sure the universal cross matches with the one on the other end. So make sure you weld the thing with that in mind. Ed Will Oliver BC
 
Good point. Those yokes have to be lined up or they'll hammer to beat the band. Forgive the artwork.
a247106.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 06:42:49 01/03/17)
(quoted from post at 06:07:21 01/03/17)
I don't see how you can slip one piece over both ends and have it fit both ends, when one of your existing ends fits inside the other.

Different size sleeves each end.

My point exactly, different size at each end but he says that the "pipe I have would sleeve over both ends of the existing tube".
 
Thanks for everyone's replies. Many good points were made. I should have posted a pic of the tube in the first place so you guys could see what I meant. I am going to have at it. I have nothing to loose and if it doesn't work I will just cut back farther at the old welds and buy tubing from a dealer. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 

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