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Adding Wood stove in metal building need pictures/advice

F

Fred from MO

Member
I am going to add a wood stove in my machine shop to cut down on the chill in there. What do you need to do when placing the flu pipe through the side wall as far as the pipe penetrating the wall? I know in a regular house they have all sorts of contraptions, but if it is just an uninsulated wall in a metal building, what sort of flange do you need if any? I plan on connecting to a 6 in pipe that will sit on the ground and go above the eaves on the outside of the building that will act as my chimney. Any pictures of what you have would help me get an idea of what type of wall penetration I need to do.
 
Do a little web surfing and find out the distance from the peak and the height of the flu recommendations. Uninsulated flue pipe will not draft properly, especially at start-up. Ofcourse some will say no no no don't do it insurance company will have a hissy fit. I've had woodburning furnace in our home covered by insurance for 13 years. You need to install it correctly and you will have a good heat source for your shop. Do your homework, do it as it should be done and you'll enjoy a heated area to work the long cold winter days away. Shortcuts and poor installation could burn your shop, tractors even you house. Take the time spend a little more and do it right. gobble
 
I went straight up thru the roof. Used a triple wall ul chimney pipe. Also set my stove on two. 30 gal barrels. Don't have to bend down to feed it. Had a outside pipe before. Hard to keep it warm enough to draw. Wrapped insulation around it at last.
 
Just buy a "thimble" and stainless chimney. They come with all the connectors, clean-out, and mounting brackets you need. Trying to cobble up something else is a waste of your time.
 
I think you will be happier going up through the roof. I've tried stoves through the wall, they never would draw right.

Use the proper type pipe, triple wall stainless, at the penetration.

They make a rubber flashing with an aluminum border that is easily conformed to the shape of the roof corrugation. Just fit it, put some polyurethane sealer under it, screw it down.
 
Way back when I built my wood stove for my shop I also did the pipe for the chimney and at the time I worked at Galva form marine and they used well casing for some of the stuff and had a lot of 3 foot piece of waste pipe I got cheap. I welded that well casing up and it has been one heck of a good chimney. I went up and out of the roof and I welded the pipe to one of the cross beams and also did a weld around the pipe where it goes out of th roof and tha twas 20 plus years ago
 
If you go through the wall or roof with a double or triple insulated pipe you can just seal around the hole with flashing caulk. That is provided you cut the hole close to the diameter of the pipe.
 
Go straight up, and about a foot on either side of the peak, then you can shove the roof flashing up under the ridge cap. If you go out through the wall under the eaves when the snow slides off the roof it will destroy the chimney, unless you put snow bars on the roof.
You are going to have a heck of a time trying to heat an un-insulated steel building!
 
make sure the top of the stovepipe is at least 3 feet higher than the highest part of your roof, in order to draw properly.
 
My neighbor just put a steel flange in the wall and used double wall pipe just through the wall. His discharge on the stove was 6" and he started with 6" to above the peak. Had a terrible back drafting problem the first year. Changed the discharge to 8" and solved the problem.
 
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