1951 super c converted to 12 volt sys. won't start

I have new starter push-button switch. New one wire alternator that has two white wires running from alt. to starter pull-out switch, etc. New 12-volt coil. It appears that something is drawing the battery strength down swiftly when trying to start the tractor. 650 CCA battery. Do you have a step-by-step procedure that could help me pin point the problem better? I replaced the original coil because I wasn't getting spark from the plugs. I haven't rechecked yet. Gas flows heavily from carb when I first open line. I admit it does need to be looked at also. I just can't figure out what is wrong. Super C was converted to a 12 system before i bought it. Maybe some things can't be introduced with the old system parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Pull the cap and see if your points are opening or not then see if you have juice to the dist. If so then see if you have a spark at the coil. If this all checks out see if the wires are on in the right order and in the right position for time.

A one wire alternator , by definition , cannot have two wires. The 10 or
12 ga. output wire from the alt. should go to the ammeter.

(quoted from post at 11:58:26 12/22/16) Pull the cap and see if your points are opening or not then see if you have juice to the dist. If so then see if you have a spark at the coil. If this all checks out see if the wires are on in the right order and in the right position for time.

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I agree. Check your points to see if they are corroded closed, that will cause a current draw. If what you mean by won't start is actually won't crank, check the starter mounting. The starter on the C grounds through the starter housing and mounting bolts. It is not uncommon to see problems resolve when you remove the starter and clean up all the metal on the starter face and the area on the bell housing where it contacts. I am assuming that you have removed any of the lighting from the system to eliminate that being the problem. If it has been converted to 12V then either all the lights were changed to 12V, they were disconnected or they are all blown.

What others have said, and possibly the battery is not fully charged if the alternator is not connected properly. It takes a long time to fully charge a battery. If not, it will quickly discharge.

If any of the battery connections are getting hot while cranking, that is a sign of a bad connection. If the entire battery cable is getting hot, that is a sign of worn starter bushings, or something holding the engine from turning freely, like thick cold oil in the transmission, or the hydraulic pump under pressure, possibly a frozen accessory, like the alternator or water pump. Also thin cheap automotive battery cables tend to heat up and cause poor cranking.

If it still has the 6 volt starter, be careful not to crank too long, it will overheat the starter.

About the carb...

If it drips a little fuel following a failed choke assisted start, that is normal. It should soon stop dripping.

But if it flows gas just sitting with the fuel valve on, there is a problem with the needle and seat, trash in the needle and seat, float level too high, or the float is sunk. This needs to be corrected first, or you can't expect it to run properly. The carb is simple, easy to repair, don't be afraid of it. Also check the fuel screen in the sediment bowl. It needs to be clean and in good condition. If the tank is contaminated with rust, water, and trash, it will find it's way to the carb. It may need to be dumped and flushed. Be careful, any scraping, tumbling, or chemical cleaning will likely result in leaks.

To start with is it a 1 wire or a 3 wire?? From what you say sounds like you have a 3 wire and you do not have it wired correctly.

On a true 1 wire alternator the wire goes to the amp gauge. On a 3 wire you have the charge stud wire that again goes to the amp gauge and on the 2 wire plug in you have the #1 wire and it goes to the ignition switch the side that is hot when turn on. And the #2 wire goes to the charge stud on the alternator.

Now as for your no spark problem 99.99% of the time the reason you do not have spark is the points are bad or dirty or need to have the gap set. If the point do not conduct power you will NEVER have sprak since the coil can not charge up and then when the points open give you a nice blue white spark that jumps a 1/4 inch gap

One wire coming off alt. goes to amp meter, the other wire that is connected to the same post on the alt. goes to the on/off pull out switch and the lights. It was a three, two common wires i just spoke of, one wire that went to tab on alt., and one charging start wire coming off the other tab, which i would touch to main post to start charging. My starter/alt. guy told me he could install a gizmo that the alt. would start charging as soon as the engine started. Told him ok. Just don't know now because I still have not been able to get the tractor to start.

the alt. was a 3-wire. Starter/alt. guy added a something inside alt. to where the alt. would start charging as soon as motor started. should i pay again to have the 3- back? Main post has two wires, one to amp meter, one to on/off switch. that's it. no other wires. The cable wire going from starter switch to battery does get hot at the push-button location. Starter was smoking a little bit, so i ran that back to starter man. Hoping to save the armature.

Carb. specialist said there might be same issues you spoke of: dirt or trash blocking needle open, float not set right. It ran okay until i was pushing snow and it just stopped and hasn't started since. Next i'll clean out bowl screen and see what happens. Thanks, John