Anyone have trouble with engine block heaters?

Married2Allis

Well-known Member
I've gotten 2 in a row that have gone bad from YT tractor parts. 1000-watt 3/4 NPT block heater for an Oliver 1650D (and other tractors). I've followed the instructions to the letter and installed them carefully in the factory location (cast iron elbow below the water pump). I keep the right level and mixture of coolant and do not leave it plugged in with the engine running. No leaks, new hoses, new water pump. They seem to work for a week then quit. At least they fail consistently in about the same amount of time! Do you have to say any specific words when they are warming up ? Is anyone having the same trouble?
 
To start with 1. I would be talking to the seller about it!!! 2. look on the and see where there made. (a large far eastern country)?? 3. Assume you have eliminated any electrical issues?
 
I have no issues with YT, they sent me a replacement last year for the 1st one. 2nd one the 90-day warranty had expired. Have no idea where it was made and it's just powered by 120v AC.
 

The tiny little heating element is being exposed to air or steam instead of liquid coolant.
A look though the cataloge will show oil/coolant heaters with more surface area per watt than a coolant only heater. If there is room use the oil/coolant heater.
Something is preventing convection flow in the block and head to keep cool coolant dropping towards the heater and the warm coolant rising above the heater .
 
Are they name-brand? I use mostly Zerostart and a few Kats heaters, and have had very little trouble.

How many Watts?

That being said, typically if it's a pipe thread heater, the element is very small, making for a "high watt density" unit that depends on coolant circulation to carry the heat away. I don't know what issues there could be with that, but it's the only thing that comes to mind that might affect heater life besides simply being defective from the factory.

FWIW, I just looked it up in the Zerostart catalog, and their part number is 3500043, 1000 watts. I's obviously not very large in diameter, but is LONGER than what it would have expected.
 
Do you still have the old elements to compare? Did they fail in the same spot?

Some cavities do not have excess space, so a casting burr or rust build up could be close to element causing it to short, or obstruct free flow of coolant around it.
 
I've never used block heaters but I can say 1000w is what a 4 ft electric
baseboard uses. If you get plastic touching the heating element, it will melt. That transulates into 3412 BTUs and your heater fits in a 3/4 hole?

I think that's way too much heat to expect convection currents keep element
from melting down.

Try finding a small heater, less watts.
geo
 
Is this a tank heater or a lower radiator hose heater. It may help if you post a picture of your installation?
 
I seen this in a customers tractor,, she was starting it with it still plugged in,, may not be your problem but if you are as well that is your problem
cnt
 
This is the long 1000-watt model. Wish I had saved the last one that quit to compare the two. Like has been said maybe it's contacting something in the elbow to burn it out. It's a replacement for the original.

Here is the product: YT Engine Block heater
 
I would be concerned that the heater is low enough, should be below lowest water level.

Running tractor and heater at same time should make no difference.
 
I have 2 tractors, a 1994 ford 1720 with factory
block heater, no problems with it, we had a ford
4600 with a block heater that did go bad replaced it
and later tractor was sold, sore subject, I put a
lower radiator hose heater from Katz, on my ford
4610, I plug it in for 6-8 hours and tractor starts right
up, so not many problems over the years. My
powerstroke diesel truck has a oil heater, no
problems with that. Probably alot now has to do
with china made junk.
 
Married2Allis, My neighbors 2-105 heater quit and the new element was shorter. My heater needed a new cord once and still have elbow with element in the garage if you need a measurement.
 
I have used Kats like the one in photo and never had trouble with it. The company I drove for used them on about 40 trucks and the only thing
that went bad was the electric plugs that wore out.
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Married2Allis, I ran out and grabbed the elbows. The one without the element is for a 1650 diesel. The smaller one came off my 1555 diesel and the element looked the same as the 2-105. Might be able to find that one tomorrow I'm sure it's were I left it.
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I have a Oliver 1655. That would be the same setup as your heater. I have found that the after market heaters do not hold up. I ONLY put OEM ones back in. When this tractor was one of my main chore tractors it was plugged in 24/7 for months at a time. I have owned the tractor for over 30 years and replaced the block heater once.

I would drain the water and check up in the elbow to make sure nothing is blocking or touching the element. If all is clear than install a new OEM heater and be done. I known that AGCO will bend you over and let you have it but the after market heaters just do not last.
 
Most OEM heaters I've seen are rebranded Zerostarts. I wouldn't hesitate to install one.
 
the only block heaters I have is in c12 cat there in the water side of the oil cooler I believe your heater maybe to big wattage for the small area there stuck in, they need some flow or get to hot those blockheaters for me last along time the one in there know is number two in a 2000 120 freightliner one million miles and hauls hog feed every day.
 
1000 watts seems like a lot for a little plug style heater. Maybe the ones on my tractors are that big but every one I have had off was less than
that. I've only had two go bad and I replaced them with units from Deere. Might pay more but I think OEM quality is better. That's not a surprise
I like to have or a job I like to do. I can see your frustration.

In those tight quarters I might go with a lower radiator hose heater. I know that's how the tractor was set up, but there are lots of things in play
that weren't factors when it was new, not the least of which is questionable origin of the new part.
 
That is the same style as my 1850 diesel.Agco heater is only 600 watts.YT's heater is to much wattage for lower radiator elbow.Get oem. heater as JD seller says.Scott
 
Thanks for all of the great advice, I'm going to remove the elbow and check it and in the meantime get a 600w AGCO replacement just to be sure if the 1000w is cooking itself. I'd like to have a tank heater but don't want to mess with the plumbing.

Greg thanks for the pictures, I've used the washing machine myself for a work bench a few times too. LOL

Bret
 
The thought that comes to mind is like when I installed water heaters, and energized them briefly just to check, make sure I had polarity correct, make sure whatever..... I had just burned out the element with no water inside the heater. I'd have to remind myself to check FOR SURE I had filled everything up with fluid.
 
Bret, Notice I put paper towels down before my wife loses her Christmas cheer! I did have a cord failure years ago but that is the original element. I've been thinking about putting it back on with this cold weather. The 1650 gas engine starts good and that is what the back blade is on. Pic is the old girl when I got home from work the other day. Merry Christmas!
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