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Coil rebuilding?

N

notjustair

Well-known Member
Is it possible to rebuild an old coil? The six volt coil on my 35 Chevy truck has a thick cable supplying its power - it's pretty cool but doesn't work. All of the replacements are a six volt coil like I use on tractors (which is what it's running now). Is the old one rebuildable?
a242406.jpg
 
I don't see how it would be rebuildable, but stranger things happen. Maybe someone who rebuilds antique instruments and gauges could or might have a lead on finding one.

Will the old one come apart? Or could it be surgically cut open, a new coil slipped inside, sneak the wire down the back side, out of sight as best possible?

Never seen one like that! The heavy conduit looks like something for radio static suppression. Strange!
 
It's a heavy armored cable sheath to restrict access to the primary ignition circuit to prevent "hot wiring" and theft.
 
Bob, you are correct. The whole thing would get busted up. MODEL A Ford had somthing like that too. You need to start looking around on the net for someone who rebuilds. Also check hemmings motor news.
 
How do you know the coil "doesn't work", is there power to it? It's been a LONG time since I messed with one of those, doesn't the theft protective cable go all the way to a sort of "armored" ignition switch?

I can't remember exactly HOW or IF one can gain access to the actual terminals at either end???

That being said, if it REALLY has failed, surely there must be some working originals on ebay or elsewhere on the 'net?

Just did a little research and turned up the fact that you have a "bottom primary terminal" coil, and the armored primary cable/cap comes off.

Below is a photo of the armored cable and ignition switch. Aftermarket parts supplier Standard Ignition (as well as others, I'm sure) used to supply coils with the "bottom" primary terminal. I have an older car parts guide at the shop, I will try to remember to check tomorrow to see if it's old enough to give an alternate part number for that style of coil, which we could then search the 'net.

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/Chevy/35_Chevy_zpsbfcsqt1h.jpg">
 
<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/Chevy/35_Chevy1_zpsrqfofzxm.jpg">

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/Chevy/35_Chevy2_zpsnpxecys5.jpg">

The car thieves of the 30's must have been pretty dumb, if the armored cable stopped them, they must nit have realized the top snapped off the coil, LOL!
 
I can't help you with the coil but I want to see more pictures of the Chevy. Is this a truck or car? From the little bit I can see in your picture it looks like a really nice vehicle.
 
Before you think about trying - I'd research the the materials used in that coil. I think they were "oil" filled, but I'd fear that they may be like many old capacictors, full of PCB's.

There's a lot of stuff that "isn't good for you" that we all handle assuming it's not all that bad in small quantities - but the PCB stuff is one you really do want to stay away from.

I could be completely wrong, and probably am, but all I'm saying is do your research before you go digging into it. Just in case.
 
I do know for a fact that some auto coils contain PCBs . Anything automotive that can be rebuilt -- the rebuilders advertise in Hemming Motor News.
 
Here is another nice looking old chevy. (If I say so myself) car bought new in 1933 by my great grandfather of Esbon Kansas and passed through the family. Got it from my father a couple years ago.
 
That was a picture I stole off the internet. Mine is grandpas old 35 1 1/2 ton Chevy. It was in storage for 30 years so I'm redoing everything Andrew will get it running this week. I still have to put the carb together (after nailing down the kit from a Rochester swap in 1940) and pull the pan tomorrow and have a look see. w

I'm fix the fenders and paint them chassis black. The rest keeps its patina. She's eased
 
That was a picture I stole off the internet. Mine is grandpas old 35 1 1/2 ton Chevy. It was in storage for 30 years so I'm redoing everything and will get it running this week. I still have to put the carb together (after nailing down the kit from a Rochester swap in 1940) and pull the pan tomorrow and have a look see. w

I'm going to fix the fenders and paint them chassis black. The rest keeps its patina.
a242509.jpg
 
Those PCB's you say are so bad, when that car is scraped that oil is still in the coil and smashed so it is all over everything including the crusher, the ground under the crusher, the truck hauling it away, the plant that melts the old steel down so it is spread out way farther than if you would try to rebuild one and put it back. So where is that any safer than rebuilding it?
 
(quoted from post at 07:34:05 11/13/16) Those PCB's you say are so bad, when that car is scraped that oil is still in the coil and smashed so it is all over everything including the crusher, the ground under the crusher, the truck hauling it away, the plant that melts the old steel down so it is spread out way farther than if you would try to rebuild one and put it back. So where is that any safer than rebuilding it?
Click to expand...

Well in the first place not many of those being crushed. 2nd, when crushed you, unless you are doing the crushing are not exposed to it directly.

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 23:36:50 11/11/16) &lt;img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/Chevy/35_Chevy1_zpsrqfofzxm.jpg"&gt;

&lt;img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/Chevy/35_Chevy2_zpsnpxecys5.jpg"&gt;

The car thieves of the 30's must have been pretty dumb, if the armored cable stopped them, they must nit have realized the top snapped off the coil, LOL!
Click to expand...

LOL Bob, lot of would be car thieves back then were not only stealing a car for the first time but also driving for the first time! Heck most people back then didn't know anything about mechanics at all! Now horse shoes they knew about!

Rick
 
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