Oil drain plug repair

dhermesc

Well-known Member
Anyone ever use one of these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/114pc-Oil-Pan-Thread-Repair-Kit-For-Repairing-Sump-Gearbox-Drain-Plug-Tool-Set-/401008115858?hash=item5d5df24092:g:-bAAAOSwo0JWF6eb


Its a kit to drill out and tap a new oil plug after Jiffy Lube as ruined your oil plug?

What would be the next size up over a 1/2 inch plug in metric - 13MM?

A little expensive but still a lot cheaper than a new pan and partially removing the engine.
 
DO NOT let them slide!!! They have to fix it correctly and please stick to your guns on this on . Especially if it is a magnesium pan. The shop where I take my Expedition has fixed probably close to a hundred of stripped plugs and guess the name of the outfit that stripped them. Do any of them know what a foot inch is? Maybe they think it is close to a Metric Ton?
 
There is no reason to do any drilling. We replaced hundreds of stripped drain plugs after the owners decided to try to save money and do their own oil changes. They make plugs with oversized threads on them that will recut threads in the oil pan. 99.99% success rate. We changed oil in a brand new Dodge van, came from the factory with a cross threaded drain plug. Had to drop the pan because the single little spot weld holding the nut inside the pan broke. Dropped the pan, had the local welding shop put a new nut inside, reinstalled the pan and put the new plug back in. Only time I knew that they didn't work.
 
On my company truck a sad looking Jif lube employee informed me my drain was cross threaded and expensive repairs were required. I responded that they were the only ones who had ever changed the oil from new if was stripped they did it. !0 min. later it was fine. Maybe they used one of the oversized plugs.
 
I bought this thing with a rebuilt engine and only 20-30K on it. The threads were stripped (and the plug seeping) the first time I changed the oil. It has a 1/2"-20 oil plug. It has a "loose" single oversized plug in it, I tried to install a double oversized and the cheap plug wouldn't start cutting new threads no matter much I jacked with it. Went back to the SO plug and wrapped some Teflon tape around the threads to tighten it up. Next time the oil gets changes I want to fix it right.

I'm not impressed with the over sized plugs I have been able to locate - most seem to be good enough to get by until the next oil change.
 
I ran into a similar problem with a Ford, I think.

Instead of a full nut welded inside, it had a thin sheet metal thing with 2 spot welds. Tried to put in an oversize plug and it split the nut, or it may have been split before, no way of knowing. Ended up replacing the pan.
 
That's how this is set up on an older Ford 351W. The threads are not on the shell of the pan but on a peace of sheet metal welded to the inside of the pan.
 
There is no power on earth that will get me into a Jiffy Lube. Given that the new cars these days cost in the neighborhood of $30,000 and an engine is worth well over 10k, I simply will NOT allow some semi-trained semi=literate minimum wage employee touch one of the most critical fluids in my vehicle.
Uh-uh! No way!
 
The #1 problem with oil plugs is the threads ware out. When it starts to come out a little hard throw it away and install a new plug :!: You should be able to break it loose and screw it out by hand.

If you continue to use it, it will take the threads out in the pan...

I fought those plugs that use a aluminum sealing washer TILL I ran across some that leaked the only way to stop the leak was to over-tighten the plug. I now use a new washer every time I remove a oil plug they are cheap you can get them in a bag of 25 are so for little money.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top