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Have any input into stove installation?

N

nrowles

Member
I am putting a wood stove in my 30x40 garage and would like to get any input. At this point I am new to this and will eventually get instruction from family and friends that burn wood. My question is, should I go thru the wall or thru the roof, or doesn't it matter? Going thru the wall seems easier to install and clean but costs about $225 more. Taking the cost out, is either one better than the other? How do I clean the pipe prior to the cleanout?

It says I need to have the top of chimney at least 2' above anything within 10' so that's what I did.

First image is thru the wall. Starting at the stove there is a heat shield behind, from top of stove there is an 8" to 6" reducer needed for my stove, damper, 4' single wall pipe, 90 degree pipe, single wall to triple wall adapter, 2' pipe thru wall thimble, tee with bottom cleanout sitting on top of support bracket that has a one foot extension to left, chimney pipe up with a couple brackets and chimney cap.

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Next image is thru the roof. I'm not exactly sure how to get the pipe connected to the pieces going through the roof so my lengths might be off. Also has the heat shield, 8" to 6" reducer, damper, 5' single wall pipe, single wall to triple wall adapter, pipe going through the kit in the roof including a "box", heat shields, flashings, etc., and a mounting bracket and chimney cap.

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If you park vehicles in there you may want to check with your ins. co. When I put a wood stove in my log home I went thru the roof with metalbestas adhering to all distance codes I had no problems in the 20yrs I lived there. I think it looks a lot better then the outside ones. What ever you choose to do don't skimp and be sure to check the codes.
 
Straight up. Less fittings, better draft. And as Flembo said contact your insurance company first.
 
Have used both methods and I prefer the thru the wall. When it comes time to run the brush up the chimney it is much easier and cleaner to run the brush with the extensions up from the outside. Stuff will fall on the ground (or container) rather than all over your stove. The horizontal above the stove can be cleaned by taking the 90 degree on the inside off and pushing the brush out to the outside tee. Again the ashes etc. will fall on the outside rather than all over your stove.

Have never had any more problems with the draft with a outside stack than I have had with and inside installation.

On occasion when I really wanted to clean the chimney I would take it down and start a fire with some newspaper in each section. If you want to see a Roman candle, you will be surprised how the creosote burns. A very thin layer of creosote will expand to make a six inch pipe be reduced to a 4inch pipe. The soft residue is very easy to clean off the pipe and you will be left with a like new pipe.
 
I say anytime you run something up thru a roof you are going to be fighting water leaks.
 
I prefer as straight as possible for flue to maintain good draft
If your stove was designed with an 8" pipe opening you should spend the extra and run an 8" flue
IMO
when I bought my last stove to replace a smaller one we had it came with a 7" flue and the old pipe
was 6".
We never got a great draft after that
after talking to a cple stove installers I swapped out the 6" flue to a 7" at the same length then
had good draft
Was told that you should never reduce flue size but you can reduce for stove size
6" stove to 8" flue is ok
8" stove to 6" flue could cause draft problem
I'm sure there will be lots of I've run my stove with smaller flues with no troubles for yrs
comments I even know lots of stoves running that way
but if the engineers designed it with an 8" opening they must f had a reason
would you reduce a water line and expect it to still deliver the same volume of water
or better yet try to put 15" tires onto 16" rims
that's just my opinion
 
Just to agree with everything posted. The reason you want your pipe
higher than the crown of the roof is the whole thing is a thermal
syphon. My parents house had a smoke leak problem for years till I
added one foot of pipe to the bathroom vent pipe. Fixed it. Stupid
stuff like that will drive ya crazy. Just make sure you are one foot
higher if possible cause it makes the stove draw so much better.
Especialy if your house is tight. Have seen a couple of instilations
where they put like a clothes dryer pipe behind the stove so there was
make up air. Before they put that pipe in you would open the door to
the kitchen and it would POP open.
 
I've done it both ways and prefer through the wall. It will draw fine either way as long as you have it the right height. I think through the roof looks better but through the wall is easier to clean IMO and the possibility of a leaking roof is eliminated.
 
My 'airtight' in the house has insulated SS pipe that runs vertical from 18" below the ceiling behind the stove and 1/2" airspace black pipe from the stove to it. Been running it for 25+ years with no problems. Dry wood and an annual cleaning. NEVER had a water leak, if the flashing is installed properly, you shouldn't too. Make sure you have correct clearances from combustible walls etc. and a proper threshold under and in front of the unit. I have installed a whack of this type of system in homes that I have built - same thing, follow the safety rules - et Voila ! The unit in my wood shop has insulated 2' below the vaulted ceiling and 2' above the ridge with (again straight up) regular 6" black in between. The whole area is driwalled with 'Fireguard' and cleaned regularly. Again no leaks (metal roof) and no problems. HTH
 
Good luck with your insurance co. I had American Family For 18 years at my old place (with a wood burner in the house) Then moved to our newer place and lived here for 9 years with only my wood burner in my garage . One day am fam did an inspection and noticed the wood burner and I got a letter saying if it was not removed by the time my next premium was due I would be dropped I went thru all the codes with them and I met or exceed all of them but no go . Took awhile but I found an independent carrier that covered me with no problems.As for reducing to 6" ,it is not recommended. I prefer a straight pipe as its easier to keep hot which means keeps cleaner. Keep your stove 18" off the floor and 3" clearance around it and you will meet most code, I've never had a leak in my roof from my stove pipe , install it right and you will have no leaks. My 2 cents
 
I used the thru the wall installation. Up four feet from the stove, then out through the thimble. It draws fine. Having the tee a little lower keeps the stovepipe away from the ceiling on the inside and makes it easier to reach the clean-out on the outside.

Didn't have any problem with insurance, they inspected the installation and added a rider that doesn't cost much.
 
I like to minimize roof penetrations, just another place to leak. I'm considering a through the wall installation. Where are you buying the pipe?
 
I like to go through the roof, straight up. Easier to clean, brush everything right down into the stove. Although the new stoves have a smoke shelf that
prevents that. In our cabin the chimney roof jack starts under the ridge cap, less chance of a leak that way.
 
Well so far the vote is 6 to 6, so I guess I have a decision to make.

I plan to get Duravent/Duraplus SS Triple Wall pipe from either Home depot or Tractor Supply, whichever is cheaper.

Hypothetical question, what does the insurance company do if there is a fire from the stove and they don't even know you had it? And just to note, like I said I have talked to the insurance company.
 
if I put a stove in my garage it will be in the middle , and the pipe will go thru the tallest point of the roof ,, very little flashing or leak troubles ,..
 
My county requires but does not enforce the requirement for a building permit. I wanted to get a building permit so I can prove
that it was installed correctly should I have a problem.
 
There's a wide variation with insurance companies. As most of y'all know, I used to do real estate inspections for insurance companies. With some companies, if I encountered a wood stove anywhere I had to fill out a separate two page report, describing the stove, answering questions, UL approved?, along with a drawing showing clearances to combustibles, etc., etc. Other companies just wanted a yes or no answer as to whether there was a wood stove present.

The two big questions were if the stove was UL approved, and if the stove was installed according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Almost universally, though, almost no company would insure a building where one of the kits made out of two 55 gallon drums was in use.
 
Insurance companies can be stubborn. They told me I had to keep my tractors locked up behind a fence. Called another insurance company. A few years later they came calling again wanting my business. Sorry. Stan
 
A old man that lives near us had his flue through the wall with no way to clean out the flat part. He had a flue fire that started there and lost 25% of his home. Make sure you have a clean out. Steve
 
If done right the roof will not leak. A straight pipe will draw better and will be easier to clean,
all the debris will fall down into the stove where I just reburn mine. With the wall outlet you
will have three sepperate sections of pipe to clean, each with it't own little issues. The only
problem I can see with a roof pipe is if you haven't insulated the ceiling or roof and the heat
melts snow and you get ice dams. Of course this could be a problem with either option.
 
Straight is better than bends. Sealing a roof flange should be easy, especially if there shingles. I just converted to metal
roofs, and they make all kinds of flexible flanges for those.
 
I used to sell wood stoves quite a few years ago, and had two of them in the house.
My advice, is stay away from that triple wall pipe, and go with Selkirk Metalbestos pipe. Triple wall works on the principle of cooling the smoke down . Cooling the smoke causes condensation and creosote. Insulated Metalbestos keeps the smoke warm as it goes up thru the pipe, You can hold your hands on the pipe with fire going and the pipe will stay cleaner and probably the only part that will need much cleaning will be on the uninsulated cap outside. Eight inch pipe if the stove has doors you can open to sit and watch the flames or six inch if it doesn't
NFPA used to recommend 18" from the stove to the wall if you put steel or cement board on the wall with at least a 1" air space, and 3 ft. without it.
That's all I can think of, any more questions just ask
NFPA

Metalbestos
 
had one for several years, finally came to realize spent more time getting and keeping wood for
the unit, tan getting any projects done,finally one day give up put in lp radiant heater and
would never go back. no more fight chainsaws etc. alot cleaner air around the shop now also.good
luck
 
I'd run the dual-wall/insulated stuff all
the way. Had trouble with creosote til I
eliminated a bunch of single-wall, but the
horizontal run was really stretching it.

Does the pipe come off the top or side of
the stove? If it's off the top, put an
insulated clean-out T right on top of it.
Pop the hatch and run the brush through.

Get the top-hat type cap. Has a ring around
the top with a cap in the middle. The
closed one with the grooves around it would
allow a down draft in a heavy wind.
 
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