Need a counterweight. 55 gal drum concrete?

nrowles

Member
Again, I am new to a tractor of this size. I have a MF135 and just got an old Davis 102 loader installed. It is light on the rear.

I am hesitant to load the rear tires at this point because it is expensive, I haven't used the tractor enough yet to invest money into filling something that could potentially leak out, and out of the blue at one point a couple of months ago one of the tires went completely flat overnight. Put air in and it has been fine since. Just not ready to do this yet.

I was going to use my box blade as a counterweight just to have a usable component hanging off the back but it only weighs 400lbs which isn't enough.

For about $75 I can fill a 55 gallon drum 3/4 full of concrete and install the necessary pins and what not. This should put me around 900lbs. I have seen some comments online where guys have done this but made the counterweight more usable. Put a couple pvc pipes vertically to use for long handled tools such as shovels, rakes, etc. Install a hitch receiver. Only fill 3/4 full so there is room in top for chains or whatever else will fit.

What is your opinion on the concrete barrel counterweight and the fabrications to make it more of a usable tool rather than just a weight? What does hanging something this heavy on the back of the tractor on a constant basis do to the way it handles?
 
I made a counter weight for neighbor.
Filled a 55 gallon drum full of concrete.
Made a 3 pt attachment to extend weight
back. Estimated weight 1200#. Ballast in
tires can't transfer weight of front wheels.
Concrete ballast can.

Neighbor needs ballast to move round bales
of hay in muddy feed lot.

Go for it. It will work .
 

Yes, your box blade weights less (400 lbs) than the barrel (900 lbs) you plan to build. However, the weight of the box blade is carried at a greater distance behind the tractor. Not knowing the dimensions....but the two options could have a similar effect to counter act the weight of the loader.
 
You just might be OVER the lift capacity of that tractor, dought if it is a thousand pounds and by the time you would put the chains and other things in that you are thinking about would be over the lift capacity that I think should be about 800#, but what ever you do even if you would go with a smaller drum make sure you have the stabilizer bars on as that much weight back there moving around the least little bit could break the rear end of that tractor. You should have a cat one hitch and that tractor of depending on if gas at 35 hp or diesel at 39 hp. For that size drum you need a full cat two hitch and at least 50 hp. Bigger tractor should work, that size not so sure. It is about the same size as tractors I have had and I would not want that weight out back on them. I would say if you used a 30 gal drum you would be ok but not a 55 gallon drum.
 
Go for it. I've been using a concrete three point weight for all of forty years. The weight along with 300 pounds of weight on each wheel gave a 50 horse tractor plenty of ballast. I got some old boards and made a 2'X2'X2' square box to pour the Crete into instead of using a barrel but a neighbor used a barrel and it worked fine. Whatever configuration you use, A Handy idea is to make the linkage so it will work with a quick hitch so it can be easily dropped off if the drawbar or PTO are needed.
 
(quoted from post at 05:56:32 11/01/16) You just might be OVER the lift capacity of that tractor, dought if it is a thousand pounds and by the time you would put the chains and other things in that you are thinking about would be over the lift capacity that I think should be about 800#, but what ever you do even if you would go with a smaller drum make sure you have the stabilizer bars on as that much weight back there moving around the least little bit could break the rear end of that tractor. You should have a cat one hitch and that tractor of depending on if gas at 35 hp or diesel at 39 hp. For that size drum you need a full cat two hitch and at least 50 hp. Bigger tractor should work, that size not so sure. It is about the same size as tractors I have had and I would not want that weight out back on them. I would say if you used a 30 gal drum you would be ok but not a 55 gallon drum.

It is a 46hp diesel engine with Cat1. I believe the Massey 135 is rated for 2,850 lbs, so 1,000 lbs is well short.
 
First off, a tractor that size without loaded tires is about worthless to start with. LOAD THE TIRES. Then add the concrete counter balance for loader work anyway.
 
I made one when we bought our JD 4600, a half barrel full of concrete, with lots of scrap iron in it, iron is a lot heavier than concrete. I also have a
drawbar sticking out the back so I can pull trailers without taking it off. I used a white plastic 55 gal barrel and it's been sitting out in the sun
for 15 years and the plastic is starting to deteriorate.
 
If it is a 46 HP tractor then it IS NOT a MF 135 so what do you actually have? That id more like the power of the 165 tractor. And no lift arms for a cat 1 tractor will stand a load of 1,400# each without bending or breaking.
 
I would do the CC or beet juice in the tires. That makes a stable loader tractor for most all the time.

The concrete weight is good for the big loads then. I would put a hitch on it, sure is handy to not have to take the block off for a little machinery
moving, seems one always has that chore and hassle. However you will end up backing into stuff with that hitch, that is a hassle too.... A
reliever tube is a little less damaging and cab switch from pin to ball type if you have a little of everything to move around.

Paul
 
(quoted from post at 06:46:40 11/01/16) If it is a 46 HP tractor then it IS NOT a MF 135 so what do you actually have? That id more like the power of the 165 tractor. And no lift arms for a cat 1 tractor will stand a load of 1,400# each without bending or breaking.

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/7/4/743-massey-ferguson-135.html
 
I run a set of bale forks on my 3 point.
Pick up a 1500 lb round bale on back and it turns it into a completely different machine traction wise.
 

Although tractor data list the 135 at 45 hp most folk on here go by the pto rated hp which for your 135 is 38 hp.

I change implements to often to deal with a barrel of concrete for loader work.
Yes it is a cheap get you by until you can get the tires loaded and add some wheel weights.
A friend added a weight rack to his grader box, he hangs front end weights to it for loader work then takes them off when grading or leaves some on for heavy dirt cutting.

It adds to the cost but I highly recommend installing heavy duty radial tubes before loading the tires.
 
A good heavy duty back blade plus suit case weights works real well and the have a piece of equipment that complements the loader to boot. My Ford 841S has a loader and I keep 6 85lbs suit case weights on it plus a wheel weight on the center link hook up area of it so that is another 150lbs
 
If you want to put a concrete weight on do not do what everyone does.
They put a steel bar through a drum standing straight up and down.
WRONG! Do a little fabrication with the drum sideways and make it so
you have something like arms and another up to your third point for
stability. The cheep way will soon break you PTO shaft when you back
into something.
 
I have a Ford 3000 with a loader and my box blade is all the counter weight I ever needed. Not sure what it weighs it's pretty heavy duty but wouldn't think it's much over what yours weighs.
 
Friend has box blade on his new YTM and he
still lifts his rear wheels off ground.

It's really simple, if you lift 1000# with
front bucket, you'll need 1000# rear
ballast the same distance behind rear wheels
as loader weight is from from wheels.
 
I have a Massey Ferguson 135 .Personally i think 55 gallon is way to much. Im with Leroy on this one
30 or 35 should be more than plenty.
 
(quoted from post at 13:19:16 11/01/16) I have a Massey Ferguson 135 .Personally i think 55 gallon is way to much. Im with Leroy on this one
30 or 35 should be more than plenty.

I am not disagreeing with you here.

Keep in mind I would only fill it about 3/4 so I would have head space. Total weight would be about 900lbs. If it is the case where that is too much weight to have on the back on a consistent basis and you are saying to use a 30 or 35 gallon, I may as well use my box blade and try to get another 125lbs on it.

Maybe before I go and make the 55 gallon drum I will go ahead and put the box blade back there with some weight on it that I already have and see how that goes. I have not even put load on the loader yet because I'm painting the bucket this week, so this is all new to me. Baby steps.
 
And I am eventually going to get the beet juice put in the tires which would be real close to 1,000 lbs. Would cost $335 with tax which is not in the budget right now. And that's if I don't put new tubes in.
 
I would use the back blade and add some weight to it. go to scrap yard and get the head off a detroit diesel LOL
 
I don't see any problem with a ballast box or should I say drum. I'm sure you plugged in the numbers but a full 55 drum of concrete would weigh about 1100 lbs, so 3/4 full will be around 820 lbs. For comparison those two weights are real close to the same as med & heavy duty 6ft rotary cutters.

The benefit to 3/4 full like you mentioned would give room to put tools inside, you can even weld hooks to outside to hang chains, rope, tie downs etc. A bonus would be using a barrel with a removable/sealed lid.
 
An alternative to a barrel is to use auto tires filled with concrete.
On Ford 600/800 we used 3-4 of about 300 lbs. each
Just take tires of a size that lays on the lift arms and drawbar, fill with 4-5 inches of concrete.
With a short pipe in the center to allow a small chain thru the stack.
The tires allow them to be rolled rather than carried.
easy to mount and remove and to vary the weight.
 

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