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Metal experts, a question...

D

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member
I need to replace a section of drive line in my IH 863 corn head. Looking at sources but there are, of course, different types of steel. This shaft goes under the corn head between the row gear boxes. There are slip clutches built into each gear box which should protect the shaft somewhat BUT, it is a corn head and stresses are great. Shaft is 13.5" long, about 1 1/8 diameter. At some point before I owned it this particular shaft had spun in its end sleeve, rounding off all the points. Guess a clutch must have failed or ????. The PO decided to weld it to the end sleeve instead of replacing. Weld failed end of season last year which is when I first saw the problem. That is the background.

Different kinds of steel. Low carbon, a couple different high carbon, alloyed steel...wondering what is the best steel for the application. Not an easy or fun place to replace parts and would prefer to do it just one time.
 
I would run a hacksaw blade or file over it or hit it with a hammer and center punch.
Should tell you pretty easily if it is just mild steel or something harder.
 
(quoted from post at 08:14:42 10/30/16) I need to replace a section of drive line in my IH 863 corn head. Looking at sources but there are, of course, different types of steel. This shaft goes under the corn head between the row gear boxes. There are slip clutches built into each gear box which should protect the shaft somewhat BUT, it is a corn head and stresses are great. Shaft is 13.5" long, about 1 1/8 diameter. At some point before I owned it this particular shaft had spun in its end sleeve, rounding off all the points. Guess a clutch must have failed or ????. The PO decided to weld it to the end sleeve instead of replacing. Weld failed end of season last year which is when I first saw the problem. That is the background.

Different kinds of steel. Low carbon, a couple different high carbon, alloyed steel...wondering what is the best steel for the application. Not an easy or fun place to replace parts and would prefer to do it just one time.
Click to expand...

To be honest I'd buy the part either new or used. Knowing the stresses and grade of steel used, if it was tempered or hardened I could look up what to use but without that design info you are going to be better off in the long run to get the shaft from CASEIH or a salvage yard. Using the wrong material can lead to early failure of the new shaft or breaking something expensive.

Couple of years ago my BIL and nephew needed parts for their corn head. I don't remember the model but was on a 1400 series CaseIH. They stumbled onto a complete field ready head in much better shape than the one that they were trying to repair for less money than new parts would have cost.

Rick
 
"At some point before I owned it this particular shaft had spun in its end sleeve, rounding off all the points".

Does rounding off all the points mean a spline is stripped off the shaft and also stripped out of the mating hub/sleeve? That could have been caused by a connection that was too loose. Are the slip clutches keyed to the shaft or are they also on splines? Without more information, I would consider re-welding the connection until the root cause of the problem can be found and fixed. Loosen, spin and re-adjust all the slip clutches to make sure they actually work. Then look for what could be causing the failure.
 
Dave take the shaft out and have the shaft welded up and ground off. IRC it is just a six sided hex shaft. IF it is too far gone for that just find a good used one and replace it. These parts are not ruined often and usually can be found easily used.
 
Most of those are standard cold rolled steel. Would be unusual for it to be harder than that in that situation.
 
If you hit it with a center punch, what happens? I'd bet it's regular steel. If you ordered a piece of 1.125 hex from a steel supplier, it'd likely work. Have you looked into what the part from Case IH costs? It likely won't be cheap, but it may not be way out there either.
 
I'll run it over to the guy who does my welding. I have a fella locally who does it so reasonably that it stopped me from taking classes. I am replacing the slip clutch springs on spec, the teeth on the clutch are high and proud. And of course, will adjust the clutch to spec. Does this remind you at all of what I went thru with the JD planter in May? Starting to lose count on how many of these clutches I have rebuilt. Almost everything I buy has at least one gone bad. Depending on how hard this is to tear down, I may rebuild the entire clutch. Not much money there, don't know why the drive shaft is so expensive. I need to call back on that.
 
Not likely that it is anything hard, probably 1018 cold rolled hex stock. But if it took the hex off the shaft, it probably wallowed the inside of the yoke or whatever it drives. That would also need to be replaced.

That it was originally designed with hex drive tells me that it probably needs to be able to slip into the mating piece, either for assembly purposes or to allow for lengthwise movement when running, or both. Possibly the hex wasn't sheared off, but wore from lack of lubrication.
 
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