IH 400 brake grabes

M-Snyder

New User
Hi I'm new to this forum I could use some help.
Dad has a 1954 IH 400. for some time now the left brake locks as soon as you push the peddle. sometimes it won't release until you put the tractor in reverse and backup a little bit.
Had it apart new pads new springs cleaned everything worked for a while started doing same thing again.
any help would be appreciated.
 
One thing is the balls and the other is the little ramps they roll up
and down in. Those balls must be the correct size, there are several
sizes, and PERFECT. The ramps can also get all mushed out of shape.
The ramps must be a consistent tapper. Good idea to change the
springs too. If your brake disks are still good and thick you can
remove the glaze on them with a sand blaster. Now listen very very
carefully. You want to have the nozzel like 8 or 10 inches away and
just wave it quickly past the disks so you just make them dull. Very
little blast is needed, just enough to brake the glaze. Magic brakes
again!!!
 
balls look ok ramps look smooth did not try blasting pads but did try new ones though about buying new actuator looks like about $200.00
 
No graphite on discs! They are designed to have lots of friction between discs, Your problem is in the linkage or the ramps and balls. How much brake pedal travel before the brakes apply. Is that adjusted correctly.
Find a shop with a 6 inch floor model belt sanderto true up the discs. . You can use mine
 
the graphite is for the ramps and balls. someone may have cut the drums down too far. Measure them for spec. Compare rt with left.
 
we have owned the tractor sense about 1964 to my knowledge drums have never been turned. disks seem to have to much friction. witch is odd for this type of brake.
 
The brakes self energize. That's why it locks up so fast with little pressure on the pedal. I would put new springs on it that has helped
all the ones I ever worked on with that problem. Also if there is any endplay on the shaft that will add to your problem.

Drum brakes on cars and trucks will do the same thing if springs are broke or weak. Springs are the only thing keeping it from going too
far and locking up. Those springs get hot in there and loose their tensile strength. To me it's a poor design but works good when all
parts are in good working order. On road vehicles drum brakes are specially designed to self energize in a forward motion by having the
rear shoe lining longer than the front shoe lining. Disc brake rely on the caliper seal to pull the piston back several thousands of an
inch to take pressure off the pads once your foot is off the brake pedal.
 
If the friction disks are thicker than .450" they are OK. The total clearance should be between .060, and .080. if more it will either grab, or not work well.
the design is called self servo. Meaning the force of braking assists in the application. in your case to an extreme. When the clearance is too much, the
linkage gets to be in a bad mechanical advantage and things go down hill. To check the stack clearance put the housing flat on a bench and put the disks and
expander inside and centered. Measure from the housing mating surface down to the friction surface. PTFE lube (like Tri-flow) can be used on the linkage and
expander balls. Not on the friction surfaces. pedals should push about 3 inches at the pedal center. Jim
 
On the Case board it has been mentioned to replace the balls with new one that are slightly larger or the next size bigger to fix the problem. The brake may have been made by Ausco or some other company but supplied to many oems.
 
Mine did that too. It ended up being notches worn in the shaft with the splines the discs run on. Replaced the worn spline shaft and all was well. AFTER I put all new brakes on it.
 

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