Chevy 350 help

notjustair · Oct 28, 2016

The 55 Chevy 4400 had the engine out of a wrecked suburban put in it about 10 years ago. It's a 350 with a carb and no frills.

Yesterday I went to haul water and it wouldn't run. It started and died a couple of times and then nothing. It acted like the fuel pump. I took the lines apart and found there is fuel to the carb but the spark at the plugs is anemic and orange. I'm assuming it is something in the distributor. I'm familiar with the ignition module on Fords going out, but what goes on those older Chevys? It doesn't have computer stuff but does have electronic ignition.

It did this the other day and I walked away from it. I came back a while later and it fired right up and ran for a good hour after that. The switch continues to let power through so I am thinking it has to be in that distributor.

old · Oct 28, 2016

Have any idea what year the engine is?? The ignition system was changed a few times over the years so the distributor is/was not the same over the years.

Also them old Chev 350 are cold blooded engine that you have to sort of baby till warmed up. The one in my 1980 Chev will fire up and died a number of times when I first start it and have to sit and hold the throttle for a while to get it to run well. Also I have found if parked for over a week it is a good idea to pour a little gas down the carb or it will take a long time to start.

Hobo,NC · Oct 28, 2016

(quoted from post at 20:51:37 10/28/16) The 55 Chevy 4400 had the engine out of a wrecked suburban put in it about 10 years ago. It's a 350 with a carb and no frills.

Yesterday I went to haul water and it wouldn't run. It started and died a couple of times and then nothing. It acted like the fuel pump. I took the lines apart and found there is fuel to the carb but the spark at the plugs is anemic and orange. I'm assuming it is something in the distributor. I'm familiar with the ignition module on Fords going out, but what goes on those older Chevys? It doesn't have computer stuff but does have electronic ignition.

It did this the other day and I walked away from it. I came back a while later and it fired right up and ran for a good hour after that. The switch continues to let power through so I am thinking it has to be in that distributor.

If its HEI you need a HEI spark checker its extremely difficult even for a seasoned pro to tell if the spark is strong enough with out one.

Google

OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester

are a adjustable one will work also google adjustable spark tester spark tester

Lots of info on the net

http://www.gmcmi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/HEI-Testing.pdf

JD Seller · Oct 28, 2016

IF you have the distributor I am thinking of your electronic coil/system is on the top of the rotor cap. You just need 12 volt power to it. The pickup is under the rotor cap. So the whole system is right there at the distributor.

crawlerjohn · Oct 28, 2016

Those are bad about burning a hole in the rotor and grounding to the distributor shaft. Second I would check the wires to the pickup coil inside the distributor. They get broken by the vacuum advance movement. If you have spark at all it won't be the module.

bigbob1939 · Oct 28, 2016

JD is right if you have a non computer electronic distributor it is all in/on the distributor. If the wiring harness in the truck has a resistor wire feeding the distributor it MUST BE REMOVED and replaced with normal wire. Check the rotor and coil on the cap.

Determined · Oct 28, 2016

Like crawlerjohn said rotor.
Pull the cap off, check the contact in the cap that rides on the rotor, then pull the rotor and inspect closely for carbon tracking and pinholes

ditchwitch · Oct 29, 2016

Maybe just the coil

Chevy 350 help

notjustair

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old

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Hobo,NC

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JD Seller

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crawlerjohn

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bigbob1939

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Determined

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ditchwitch

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