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Building a Lean too, someone check my math please

J

JohnDeereJimOhio

Member
Hello all. I would like to add on a lean too to existing horse barn to add more hay storage. Barn is 40 foot long ten foot to the rafters. Planning on running a 2x10 header on barn, either lagged or carriage bolted into existing posts. I was going to run 2x6 on 2 ft center and header on 4x4 post every 10ft... I am in north east Ohio and in country no permits or inspections required. Will this handle snow load? Also will be throwing on a tin roof and sides. I am by no means a carpenter but can build stuff just want to make sure that I'm building it heavy enough.
 
Sound good if the lean to is not over 10 or 12 ft wide. You did not state how wide you intended to build it. 12 ft on 2X6 is about it.
 
You don't mention the height of the short outer wall, or the width of this lean-to.
Myself, I would go a minimum of 16 inch centers.

The cost would be for 10 extra 2 x 6's.
Also don't know what you plan on using for perlins.
 
16" not 24" and at 12' wide you could possibly get a 7' high side wall, probably more like 6'.
 
I would not use 4 by 4 posts. They seem too small? They are weak plus not much area to attach a header. How wide is this building? Might want to run a header on both sides of the posts? My building is 24 ft. wide and the 6x6 posts are on 12 ft. centers with a double 2 x 12 header.
 
Sorry thought I put it in there plan is for a 12 foot lean too.. building has 4x6 post on 10ft centers suppose I could use those to match it. And would be using 2x4 perlins for roof.
 
Here in the lake effect snow belt I have built lean-tos from 10-14' wide, all with rough cut 2x8 rafters on 24" centers and 6x6 posts. I also like to use a double 2x12 rough cut for headers. Yours may work fine, but I would feel more comfortable with 2x8 and 4x6 or 6x6 for snow loads.
Zach
 
I built a couple of them in Mi. that were 16 ft wide a number of years ago. I bolted a 2x8 header to the existing wall that had 4x6 post 8 foot apart. I built the header the same with 4x6 post and double 2x8s above 15 ft. out. Then went with 2x8s 24 inches apart with steel on the roof. I ran 2x4s across the roof 2 ft. apart to nail the steel to. I had a 2 foot drop from one side to the other. That was about 20 years ago and never had a problem.
 
I am a pump man/engine mechanic, So I am no carpenter by any means. I can tell you what has worked for me hear in Western, northern Michigan. We get heavy snow loads here so if it will stand here, it will work in Ohio. I built on lean to off of a 66 foot long building by taking the trim and board off of the truss on the over hang. I carriage bolted two 2x6x16s to each side of each truss that are on 4 foot centers. Followed the 4/12 pitch and added a header on telephone poles on 8 foot centers on the opposing side. I put a few pieces of scrap 2x6 sandwiched in the middle of the 16 footers. Added 2x4 perlins, Then covered with steel. 20 years ago, still standing. Sure as heck not to any code, but farmer proof. I did not add any head boards, but all ready had 2 2x10 headers on 8 foot centers. Just make sure the 2x6x16 are clean with no big knots,or cracks. Good luck... Al
 
Mine is 66 feet long and comes out 16 feet.
Rough cut 2 x 12 on 2 foot centers.
Tin on top, insulated with OSB on the inside.
Header is doubled up 2 x 12.
12 foot celling at the barn side and 8 foot on the full outside wall.
Overkill maybe but it is solid.
 
Jim I have a similar situation at my barn. I would favor 16 on center rafters and yes 6x6. Don't think for small job it would cost much more.
 
If the main building is only 10 ft to the eaves and you want to add a 12 ft shed, your low side will be very low. What is the slope of the main building? You may want to run the roof up on the main building. Right now I would figure this before I would try to calculate structural strength.
 
Without tying into the roof you won't have enough slope and for rain or snow you will need more slope. 4x4 will work for support if closer together-4x6 will be better. Put rafters on no more than 2 ft centers. If building is insured be sure to advise agent of improvements so you can have enough coverage if it collapses from wind or snow.
 
I think you'll be fine. My lean-to was horribly underbuilt when I bought the place. 10' wide x 40' long. 2x4 rafters, 48" on center!!! Posts are 4x4s, 8' on center. Headers are 2x4's.

It held up like that for a long long time. When the cheap green fiberglass roof started to blow off I peeled it all off, and added a 2x4 rafter in between each one to bring it to 24" on center. Then I roofed it with galvanized steel. Even with 2' of snow on top there is no sign of deflection in the rafters.
 
I just built the same lean to on my 40' shed with 10' roof.

I used the existing header from the shed and screwed hangers to it through the tin. The existing header (2X10) was only nailed to the 6X6 posts - I added one 1/2 carriage head bolt at each post (5) to keep the header from pulling away from the posts and added a lag screw. The wall I added I used 6X6 posts on 10' centers and a double header (2x8) with both lag screws and a single 1/2" carriage head bolt to hold it to the posts. I ran 2X6 20" apart and used hangers on both of the double headers to hold in place (all screwed). I then screwed 2X4 nailers on 20" centers to the 2X6s and then screwed the tin to the nailers. The span is 12' wide and I have a 2' 6" drop over the 12' span - it appears to match the slope of the existing shed.

The dimensions are similar to the existing shed only everything I did was screwed and the original construction is all nailed (except the tin).
 
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