7 FOOT 3-POINT BRUSH HOG

rick1

Member
i would like to go to a 7 foot 3-point brush hog but it seems they really jump up in weight and size from a 6 footer. i have a 64 hp newholland tractor buy im not sure it will handle the weight.i dont like pull types they just dont seem to cut as nice as a 3point.what size tractors do you guys have and what size brush hog do you run.
thanks RICK
 
I've got a 5303 john deere, 64 hp, with loader, but I hate using the tractor with the loader on, so it comes off, and I put 4 weights on the front. The hog is a bush hog 840 7ft, without the weights the front is light.
 
I will be paying attention to answers. my only question to add, does it need to be 1000 rpm to get the suction needed to stand up the crop after the tires run it over?
 
I have an old 7 1/2 ft. Lilliston pull behind (now owned by Bush hog) and an 8 ft. Alamo (Mott)flail that I use with an IH 450 diesel (45 hp). Both cut nice and will work better after I rebuild the PTO, brake bands are slipping badly!
 
The 1000 rpm PTO is only the input speed of the PTO,output at the blades will be the same as a 540 PTO because of gearing.Mark
 
I have a 7-foot 3-point heavy Modern Machinery cutter. My 54 PTO hp AC 170 handles it with ease. The 170 is long and has the front frame weight and that heavy 3-point hitch. Nice mowing rig.
 
(quoted from post at 17:27:24 10/09/16) i would like to go to a 7 foot 3-point brush hog but it seems they really jump up in weight and size from a 6 footer. i have a 64 hp newholland tractor buy im not sure it will handle the weight.i dont like pull types they just dont seem to cut as nice as a 3point.what size tractors do you guys have and what size brush hog do you run.
thanks RICK

I bought one once because it was cheap...sold it shortly after that. It just scalped way too much...you need some pretty smooth ground to not scalp as it is LONG! Make sure it has a slip clutch if nothing else or you will be replacing shearbolts quite often! Better yet, get two tail wheels, that would help a lot.
 
I use a Woods 7' 3 point behind my MF135. Since I don't really have the need to lift it completely off the ground I just drag it around with the 2 lower lift arms of the 3 point. Been doing that for years with no problems.
 
Have a 6ft 3pt behind a Massey 175 (65hp). For the most part it doesn't know it's there, will put a load on it when you get in chest high stuff. It does make the front end a little light. Has 5 weights on the front also. Overall, handles it with ease.
Used to use it on a Massey 40b (50hp) handled it well also.
 
I found out to not lift the whole hog, just lift half of it. I run a 6' House hog on back of a MF-240. 48 horsepower. I run the trail wheel sitting right on the ground, with the rear end hiked up in the air. So it shoots cuttings out the back. I only lift the front half, and adjust height very easy and stress-free. I also do not connect the top link. I only use the 3-point lift arms. Works just fine.
 
I use a 7' Howse cutter on a 4630 Ford, that is around 55HP. My cutter has 2 tail wheels and that helps with the scalping. The tractor is a little light in the front when I pick it up so I add a little weight on the front. But when in use I carry a lot of the weight on the tail wheels.
 
I have a bb306 woods on the back of a NH workmaster 75. It's a heavier 6 foot mower and a good match on the back of that tractor for the places that I mow with it. There is an end loader on the front to balance the mower I would imagine it would take weights up front if the loader was not on there.

That extra foot depends upon the weight of your tractor and the mowing you will do. Are you on hillsides or do you routinely mow in very heavy grass?
 
(reply to post at 19:27:24 10/09/16)
7 foot mowers are fairly rare... due to single gearbox construction, they are very long and tend to vibrate the seams and welds... They have to really over build the frames, and add dual tail wheels. the long design puts the weight way back, giving it more leverage against the tractor and itself. Also its harder on the gear box with the leverage against the blades, so they tend to fail sooner. In commercial applications the multiples of 5 foot cutters (or smaller) seems to last the longest. But they do have their place in certain applications where no other size will do.




a dual/triple box 8 footer will often work better and last longer.
 
Got one of the International (not IH) cutters in 7 ft, use it behind a Ford 5000.

I've got wheel weights and the small Ford suitcase weights on the front of that tractor, otherwise it would be kinda light on the front tires.

It works well for me.

Fred
 
I saw ONE in operation years ago. In short, I would opt for a twin blade 7-8' long before I would vie for a 7' single. Actually I wouldn't even
consider it. Main reason, length and weight distribution.....length, a problem in turns and bumpy/hilly ground (scalping), and weight, FT-LBS....too
many feet out behind the tractor.
 
With the rear wheel set to hold it up high, and using the lower lift links to control the height scalping isn't really a problem. Beside when your good friend, and long time neighbor retires from farming says you can have what equipment he has left that he didn't sell you can't say no to the price.
 
Rick, I have a 7 foot MX7 J.D. I pull it behind my 3020 J.D. Love it..I have couple weights on the front of tractor to help with the popup of front wheels. Isnt a huge issue but I dont go down the road in road gear with it all the way up either.. I have cleaned alot of area with this sucker. 2.5 inch plum trees for sure..
 
I had a 7 ft. Woods. Pretty heavy. This sounds stupid but, I don't think you can cut any more with a 7ft than a 6 ft. Seems like all it would cut good was between the wheel tracks. My tires are 18.4s. Set in for 30" rows. Have a 6ft. Keen kutter. It cuts wheel tracks also. I saved for a 15' bat wing. They are a step up. Go slower, cut better, get more done.
 
I have a 7' Hardee that was abandoned in the woods for 20+ years. It is big and it is heavy. It makes the front end of my JD 4020 light. It was originally set up with Cat I pins, I changed them to II. I can't imagine using it on a smaller tractor. If it weren't for the fact that it matches the rear wheel spacing of the tractor, I'd sell it and get a 6'. On my place, it would be a lot more maneuverable and useful. On the other hand, I use it about like a chainsaw half the time and I've done a lot of clearing with it, and it was free* so I shouldn't complain.

* Free before I bought a new shaft, clutch, hitch pins, and paint.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top