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Threaded rod and caster wheel for splitting stand needed

A

Alan K

Well-known Member
Im building some splitting stands for my tractor and need to find some good heavy threaded rod with nuts to add to a plate and caster wheel for it. Anyone know a good place to get them?
 
(quoted from post at 11:22:00 09/22/16) Im building some splitting stands for my tractor and need to find some good heavy threaded rod with nuts to add to a plate and caster wheel for it. Anyone know a good place to get them?
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I got my heavy duty caster wheel from Burden's Surplus in Lincoln, Nebraska. 3/4" threaded rod and heavy duty nuts came from the local farm store.
 
Baum Iron in Omaha Nebraska, has the Acme threaded rod and nuts that might work for you. And Surplus center would have casters.
 
If you are going to go with the threaded rod go to your local fastener house and ask for B7 all thread and 2H Heavy Hex hardened nuts. B7 is the hardest commercial grade you can get over the counter.
 
This may not work for you, but I used a trailer jack with the wheel on the bottom. Rated for 1000 pounds.
 
Alan look for adjustable scaffold wheels. They already have a good thread and nut on them. This is what I have made splitting stands from. The locking type work well too.
a238152.jpg
 
I agree. That is the way Ive always done them. Always figured being the wheel base is
wider in the back, more stable and you are balancing a lesser point. The picture I have
of the front stand Im planning on making has wheels on the front and back, but Im
planning to make the front stationary. Have a G950 MM to put a clutch in so I want to
make the front heavy enough to support it.
 
why not use regular castor wheels for the job and then use the threads to adjust the tractor up higher so the threaded rod is not taking the guff with the load on it. It can bend and the not adjust. With the wheels on a frame, the rods can be used to adjust the brackets bolted to the tractor.
 
Allan,
If you haven't started construction yet, you may want to consider going more in the route I went. It's a little hard to see in the pixtures but a small bottle jack goes in each side of the stand and the end tubes slide in and out. It works very well and is very solid. I don't know if I would trust rolling around a couple trailer jacks or 3/4" all thread with a G950. I believe the casters I used are rated for a couple thousand pounds each.
IMG_20160706_205505515_zpslwuu3l2w.jpg
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That is a very nice stand and a good idea. I have started some on the back stand for the M5. Going to pattern it
after the original style. The picture is from an M670 shop manual. The other two pictures are from an MM service
bulleting on splitting stands from the late 1960s . LOL...the 3 piece set was $155 if I remember right. The rear
stands look like they would work ok but Im not too fond of the front half. I would want it heavier than that.
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a238194.jpg

a238195.jpg

a238196.jpg
 
I block the front and use a floor jack with extension on a concrete floor to roll the rear away. :)
 
(quoted from post at 07:46:29 09/23/16) I block the front and use a floor jack with extension on a concrete floor to roll the rear away. :)
Click to expand...

I block the front and use a trailer jack which is rigidly mounted to the back to roll the back away. It is IMPOSSIBLE for it to fall off the trailer jack.
 
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