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Tractor Recommendation for New Guy

N

NTG

Member
I've been looking for weeks and thought I had decided on maybe a Ford 2000 or 3000, but there are so many variations, I can't tell which is which. I've seen some decent looking Massey Fergusons and a couple John Deeres, but I can't tell about them either. I've been trying to look at Tractordata.com, but it isn't always complete.

I've got 60 acres, mostly woods. Initially, I'll be skidding logs and maintaining about 3/4 of a mile of road which needs a LOT of grading work. All the videos I've seen of box blading seems like that would work ok. I'd like a FEL, but that's probably not in the budget which is $6000. I don't really care about the brand, but a local mechanic I talked to said Fords were easier for him to work on. I'll probably go with a Ford, MF, or JD with a Mahindra thrown in as a wild card. Most of the newer stuff I see is out of my ballpark unless I finance which is pretty much not going to happen.

I'm thinking about 45HP, but don't know. I saw a post from someone else that was about how I feel.... saying to heck with it, taking the plunge and whatever happens, happens. I have a mechanic buddy who can look at something for me, but I can't drive him all over ***** half acre looking at things for me. I'm not much of a wheeler-dealer either so talking someone down to my price point will probably not happen. Anyway.... any thoughts would be appreciated. :)
 
Is your land flat or hilly? How big are the logs? What will you do with the logs once you have them skidded out and how many logs per year? How wide is the road and how much traffic will it have on it?

With all those questions my thoughts are that a tractor is a compromise on these jobs, one that takes careful thought and has associated maintenance too. You may be money ahead to hire these jobs out to someone who has the proper equipment for the job. Skidding logs can be tough on a farm tractor, blading roads is better done with a proper grader, perhaps only once per year at a great saving over the cost of the tractor and box blade.
 
I looked for quite some time before I found my Ford 3000, kinda was in the same place you are, didn't (couldn't) spend more than 5000 but wanted a loader. I was borrowing my neighbors MF 35 and I was glad I bought the Ford. I think it's a better tractor in allot of respects. I paid $4500.00 for my 71 3000 diesel with a loader and 6 foot box blade 10 years ago. Have been using the heck out of it and have no doubt as long as it keeps running I could get my money back in a heart beat.

Kinda depends on where you are at, around here Fords are fairly common and one with a loader will show up on Craigslist fairly often. It may be a 3000 4000 or 5000 but will be within your price range. Here is one I found just now. Not pretty but that doesn't matter if everything works.
Ford 4000
 
The one Bob posted would be ideal and within your budget, if that was around here, I'd seriously consider it. Only thing I don't like is that the bucket is not as wide as the tires. However, that is not all bad as it would likely dig a little better in the soil or anything that is not loose material. Mind you they are not dozer blades either, likely just the right size for an ag tractor, Snow bucket could be added for loose and or lighter/bulkier materials.

For towing logs, you'll need weight on the rear of something like this one, but a nice heavy set of 3 point forks would go nicely with that hydraulic top link. Towing logs has some drawbacks, running through dirt/mud or gouging fields, but if you have a means to get one end up, makes all the difference.
 
All those models are good, but for $6000 you should be able to find a Ford 5000 - one of the best tractors ever built, and way more tractor than the others. There's a big jump when you go from the 4000 to the 5000
Happy shopping
Pete
 
I follow the Ford board board and saw your
posts there.
The 3000 you posted the photo of only has
the straight up 4 speed so i would pass on
it for the same reasons the others said.
I do like Fords. I have a 3000 and a 4000
now and have bought and sold several of
them in the last 10,12 years.
Both models are excellent, bullet proof
machines. But with 60 acres I might lean
toward buying a 4000 if I were you. Yes,
they are bigger and taller than a 3000
which for work in the woods isn't quite as
handy. But they are better tractors over
all with simpler, stronger front ends -
for
Loader work and will almost always have 8
speeds and live pto whereas, a 2/3000 may
or may not. They also have outstanding
brakes and the 3000s have adequate brakes.
They also have about 14 or 15 more HP
which never hurts.
A lot of guys here will tell you you GOTTA
to have a diesel. Maybe if you are really
farming that 60 acres you would want a
diesel but most of us weekend warrior
types who might put 50 - 200 hours a year
at most on a tractor will do just fine
with a gasser. I have one of each and like
them equally well. They are both entirely
reliable and will suit your purposes well.
One other thing I would add is are you
positive you need a loader? A loader will
make an otherwise nimble tractor a clumsy
dreadnought for many things.
If i could have only one tractor, only
one, I definitely wouldn't want a loader
on it. So maybe look for a 3000 or 4000
without a loader for now. If you decide
you really do need a loader then you can
add one later or better yet, buy a second
tractor that has one.
Kudos to you for doing your homework here
before you buy. The Ford board here is the
best on the internet with a good group of
very knowledgeable guys there. Dont be shy
to ask for their opinions.
Use searchtempest.com to find tractors in
your area. Type in your zip code and the
distance you want to travel and let it
search all the craigslists in that area.
Good luck on your search and keep us
posted.
I really do like my Fords.
 
I would steer clear of the Mahindra, my neighbor priced one and it was about $5000 more than a Kabota. Another neighbor bent up a Mahindra scraper blade and it took about 3 hours of heavy heating and pounding to straighten out the blade's frame. As another post said a Ford 4000 might be a good choice for you.
 
Dont sell yourself so short. Actually owning a tractor will help your mechanical skills. If your
just keeping up and scraping a road and pulling a few logs a 135 Massey or the 3000 ford would work
fine or a JD 2040. All of those around the same HP and are great tractors
 
You can buy a MF65 ( a real 50 HP workhorse) for the same price as a MF35 and it is a lot more tractor and just as
agile for small tasks.
Most people don't really need a FEL, it is just something to play with...but so is the tractor. Gas or Diesel? For
small jobs around the farm I'd go gas. Cheaper and much easier to work on and starts year round.
 
I have a bigger tractor now with a loader that we use for hay, but still have the first tractor I bought for this farm, a Ford 2000. It is just so darn nimble and flexible it gets used for most jobs around here.

For skidding, I was able to move 20 ft logs easily. I bought a log skidding attachment called a "Log Hog" from Northern tool. If you are handy with a welder I am sure you cold make one. It is basically a 3 point frame with a chain attached. You drop the thing on the ground, run the chain around the end of the log, then lift it a bit off the ground with the 3-point and drive. Works very well.

I also first purchased a 6.5 ft Woods box blade. It is cat 1 but very substantial and heavy. I can barely budge it to move it a bit to line up the lift arms when putting it on the tractor. The little tractor carries it very well and it really takes the work out of leveling ground. I would not ever be without it. Works 10 times better than using a loader to level dirt, in my opinion.

So, I agree with the rest of the folks, just wanted you to know my story. Only thing that could improve this tractor is if it was a 4000. Actually thought about trading it but decided not to.

John
 
BTW, my 2000 is gas and has PS, 8 speed tranny and live pto. On my level ground, the brakes are excellent. I can lock the tires at speed and grind to a halt no problem. Starts in any weather and very easy to maintain.

Would not consider any thing else than an 8 speed. 4 speeds usually also have no PS. Both 4 speed and the rare 6 speed don't give enough gearing options for me. No way on SOS.

John
 
Yes a big jump when you go to a Ford 5000 from a Ford 4000, DOWN. The 4000 is a way better tractor. I have had both and I know. And I would tell you to stay away from the 3 cylinder 4000 models as they are hard to work on as well as parts are harder to get and way more costly. DO NOT BUY ONE WITH THE INDEPENDANT PTO, very dangerous if you put on a mower for someone not familuar with tractor driving as the 3 cylinder 4000 are, Same thing with the 5000. Stay with a 4 cylinder 4000 or the forerunner 860 or 861 with the 5 speed and 2 stage clutch for live pto. For a novice if you put on a mower if you have to make a panic stop of tractor and mower to stop everything same as you would in a stick shift car if something unexpeitly show up in front of you. With that indepensant on the newer tractors you have to remember you have to clutches you have to hit together to stop. I wish that the 4 cylinder is what I had instead of the 3 cylinder. Would have been better for a lot of the heavy farm jobs. For what you want get one with the 28" rear wheels and most of the 3 cylinder models have 38" rear wheels and the 5000 was not made with 28" rear wheels and the 38" wheels mean a higher tractor that you DO NOT want or should have. I have used those tractors over thousands of acres along with Ford 9N, 2N, Naa and Ferguson TO-30 using pto with NO live PTO and did not miss it but those are what I grew up on and was used to them so if ever a chance you will want a mower get that 2 stage clutch. I am talking for your safty here as it is way safer the the independant PTO. Same with the lower tractor.
 
As mentioned below, skidding logs is tough work for small tractors. By small tractor I mean anything under 50 hp. Take your time, and don't try to skid anything too big until you get a sense of what the tractor will safely do. My suggestion would be to get a 3 pt. hitch mounted winch for whatever tractor you decide on to skid logs with. (See Adirondack case guy's posts on cutting firewood. He has a nice setup which works well on a small tractor.) If you are working in hilly country be especially careful until you get a sense of what your tractor is capable of.
 
Ntg--I have been operating tractors since 1957. I do agree with most of these guys a 3 or 4000 Ford are decent little tractors, a series 4 D17 Allis is a great tractor. I have scrapped several hundred 2-8-9n fords over the years, stay away from them. if you are going to get 1 with a loader, make sure the tractor has power steering. Live PTO is a must! If you have an experienced operator that was willing to go with you when you look at tractors by all means take him or her. I am not trying to rain on anybodys ground here, I have not owned a 5000 Ford but everyone I spoke too who did told me to stay away from them. Wifes uncle had 1 that he traded off for a 4000 SU gas powered, uncle Bob liked it far better than the 5000.
 
Does look pretty decent... but it's a 3000, not a 4000. (no way is it 55 h.p.) And I'd like to see him get that loader off in 10 minutes!
 
Pete, I agree. He will have a way better machine and a lot better chance not to turn the thing over backwards tugging on logs and stumps. gm
 
(quoted from post at 06:08:45 09/15/16) Is your land flat or hilly? How big are the logs? What will you do with the logs once you have them skidded out and how many logs per year? How wide is the road and how much traffic will it have on it?
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The land is mostly flat. It gets a little steep down near the creek, but mostly where I'll be using the tractor right now is pretty flat. Maybe "skidding logs" was an overstatement. :) Outside of clearing some trees for building sites, I won't be cutting anything over 10-12" in diameter. Mostly I'll be cleaning up fallen trees and getting the land straightened up for when I start farming over there. I'll just be chopping them up for firewood or building mounds trying out some "hugelkultur" stuff or building swales to send water where I want it to go. I won't be doing any real "logging" and I am *highly aware* of what I don't know. I will not be standing the tractor on end trying to drag heavy stuff like I see videos of on YT, nor will I be using it on a 45 degree incline. :)

I had several "tractor buddies" tell me I needed a bucket and would regret it if I didn't get one. My thinking was since I had never driven a tractor before, a bucket would be a visual hinderance and also an opportunity to turn myself over. About the only thing I could think of that I would use it for would be to tote gravel or compost when I start large scale composting. I've got a shovel and a pickup truck.

I just want to get started without killing myself. I want to start cleaning up my land and getting a visual in my head of what is going where when we start building over there. I understand that if I buy something and it doesn't work for me, I might be buying a bigger or fancier tractor later. But I think I would always have a use for a smaller tractor around the place. I've got 2 lawn mowers, 2 weedeaters, 2 blowers, 2 chainsaws, etc because if one is down, I have a backup. I can see having a 30-40 HP tractor around the place as a backup even if I end up with a 100 HP tractor. But I'm certainly not blowing off all the great advice. I'll come back through here and read all the replies more closely when I have a minute this evening. I appreciate all the help!
 
I guess I don't know why so many folks are hung up on SKIDDING logs. The log will

be cut eventually---So why not use the chainsaw to cut the log up where it is felled,

and use a trailer to haul the wood home. This way you won't have mud/dirt in the bark,

which is very wearing on the chainsaw---id est::chain, bar,and sprocket. My 2 cents---
 
Would work if he hung it from an A-frame, used quick-couplers on the hoses...only 4 pins to pull. Lots of loaders become more nimble by just taking the bucket off. Quik-hitch setups make it down to a minute.
 
You would not believe the things I use my bucket for it's my mussels when I need to pick up something, my fork lift when I need to unload something out of my pickup, my ladder when I need to work on something I can't reach. I use it to pick up the front of my lawn tractor to sharpen the mower blades and grease the spindles, used it to haul and lift the tin I put on the roof of a building. I cleared 1/2 acre with 4 12 inch trees and used the loader to push all the cut tree limbs and logs into burn piles. You will be amazed at what uses you can figure out for a loader, I would be without one and thank my lucky stars my tractor had one when I bought it.

Only issue I have with the loader is not being able to turn with front close to an object or building. If it's not too tall I raise the loader over it to clear. When mowing I drop the loader down in front of the tractor and out of the way. It would be a major ordeal to remove my loader so it just stays on the tractor and I deal with it.
 
You have several good suggestions here, but I'll add one more. Consider a John Deere 2030 (It's a utility tractor with 50 drawbar Hp). They generally have a loader on them. In your situation I'd make sure that it had a factory roll-bar. The John Deere 2440(next model newer) is essentially the same tractor, but is generally at least $2,000 more expensive.

I love mine, but it took me 9 months of searching to find one suitable.

Larry
 
if it was already said I missed it but..what kind of tractor I would look at is who in my area can service it and
get me parts..I have j.d. have three dealers each about 30 minutes away.. far enough but still.. New holland same
distance for me..

So where and who are the dealers in your area..
 
(quoted from post at 13:02:12 09/15/16) I guess I don't know why so many folks are hung up on SKIDDING logs. The log will

be cut eventually---So why not use the chainsaw to cut the log up where it is felled,

and use a trailer to haul the wood home.
Click to expand...

I agree with you if I was cutting firewood. I will be wanting some 8-16' poles for various things so I'll have to drag those out of there. Otherwise, you have a valid point.
 
(quoted from post at 13:19:15 09/15/16) You would not believe the things I use my bucket for
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I understand. I just feel I can get by comfortably right now without one and I'd rather afford "more" tractor than get "less" tractor with a loader. Now if one just falls in my lap under budget..... :D Winner winner chicken dinner.
 
(quoted from post at 16:42:42 09/15/16)what kind of tractor I would look at is who in my area can service it and
get me parts..
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Yes sir. I have not researched that like I should, but I will. The only one I've talked to is the guy who runs what *used* to be the Ford dealer here. Now it's just a guy in a building working on all kinds of stuff. He said he prefers working on Fords because they're easier to work on for him. We do have a JD place here, from what I understand they are overpriced, don't know about their repair work, though. There is another one about 25-30 miles from here. There's a Massey dealer about 45 miles from here. I've also got to go over to Alabama and see what's over that way that I'm not familiar with.
 
(quoted from post at 14:21:18 09/15/16) You have several good suggestions here, but I'll add one more. Consider a John Deere 2030 (It's a utility tractor with 50 drawbar Hp).
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, this is the kind of pricing you find on those around here: http://columbusga.craigslist.org/grq/5757552959.html
 

Not as pretty and no loader, but this one doesn't look bad: http://dothan.craigslist.org/grd/5767122605.html

I do like the overhead protection deal for getting it done in the woods. Never know when something's going to fall out of there!
 
That's not the 2030 that I think he was referring to. The 2030 that is most prevalent was build in Dubuque, IA.

The 2030 is a great platform. Unfortunately it will be more expensive to run being a Deere. I have both Deere and Ford and parts are Deere-er on the green tractor.

John
 
I see a lot of people advising on a bigger tractor. I'll advise on smaller. I've been skidding out logs on my property the past few days using my Ferguson TO30. Yesterday I started by skidding a 12 foot spruce log that was 20 inches at the butt. No problem for the tractor. The nice thing about that little Fergie is its size. It's shorter than most farm tractors with a shorter turn radius so working around trees is easier. No loader on a woods tractor, you can't turn between trees.
 
(quoted from post at 19:37:09 09/15/16) That's not the 2030 that I think he was referring to. The 2030 that is most prevalent was build in Dubuque, IA.
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That's part of my problem.... someone might say, "Get such and such." I go find such and such and they say, "Oh, not that one!" There are so many variations of each model in every brand, it's very difficult for a person new to tractors to find one that suits them just right.
 
(quoted from post at 14:33:06 09/15/16) As mentioned below, skidding logs is tough work for small tractors. By small tractor I mean anything under 50 hp. Take your time, and don't try to skid anything too big until you get a sense of what the tractor will safely do. My suggestion would be to get a 3 pt. hitch mounted winch for whatever tractor you decide on to skid logs with. (See Adirondack case guy's posts on cutting firewood. He has a nice setup which works well on a small tractor.) If you are working in hilly country be especially careful until you get a sense of what your tractor is capable of.
Click to expand...

I agree with some of the others on a smaller tractor. I have a lot of woods on my property and have been logging for several years. I always go to my Ferguson TO-20 because it is easy to maneuver around the woods and has a low center of gravity. Personally if I was going to pick a tractor to do what you are talking about I would look for a Massey Ferguson 135. Diesel being preferred but gas would be ok too. The reason being the diesel version is 45hp but it still is very nimble and has a low center of gravity. That's just my opinion though.
 
Dealer, dealer, dealer! You have gotten a lot of good advice for the most part IMO. Now for the down side. IF you are not that experienced in mechanical issues you will require dealer support at some time. If the tractor in question doesn't have good support in your area it can turn into a nightmare! You can generally tell how good they are in a given area by what the local farmers are using. Prices will tell too. A tractor that here will sell for less than 3K might be worth 5-8K in another area just because of dealer support or lack thereof.

An AGCO dealer should be able to support Oliver, Massy Ferguson, Allis Chalmers and one or 2 more.

CaseIH or New Holland, should support Ford, New Holland, Case, IH (Farmall) and CaseIH.

JD is pretty much JD but they do own the AI line too IIRC.

Rick
 
I felt the same way about the loader in the beginning but now that I have one I find I use it about every day I use the tractor. Mine is a
New Holland Boomer 35-35-38hp and it was the same price as the equivalent jd without a loader. Bought in 2011 new and good service so far.
I have smaller older tractors such as Ford Jube and 8N but they are not the workhorses.
 

I'll throw my .02 in
A local parts source and repair facility is very important when looking at brands. No matter how good the tractor is it will need some kind of maintenance or repair over time.
With your local repair guy being more familiar with Fords and more likely having a lower shop rate than dealers I'd be looking at Fords more than other brands.
I am a little biased being a Ford owner but I recommend looking at a 4000SU or 4600SU.
These tractors have the heavier planetary drive rear axle with inboard wet disc brakes, independent pto and hp of the larger 4000 but use a 3000 style sweep back front axle and 28" tires making them low profile, easy to maneuver, but is a heavier more stable platform than any other tractor in that size range.

For larger jobs or handling heavier pieces of equipment I'll use my regular 4000 or 5000, other wise I'll use my 4000SU that's lower profile to get under low objects, turns tighter, maneuvers better it tight quarters, has plenty of power and the extra weight helps with traction.
At nearly 61 years old one less step getting on and off the tractor is also a plus.

A sweep back axle is not the best front end for loader operations but if not abused it does an ok job.
I have two quick attach loaders that are only mounted on the tractors when a loader is needed and taken off when the job is done.
With the number of times an empty loader has got me stuck I will never again own a loader that can not be easily removed.
 
Any fans of the selecto speed transmissions? :)

http://bham.craigslist.org/grd/5784565191.html
 
(quoted from post at 03:11:44 09/18/16)
(quoted from post at 22:31:51 09/17/16) Any fans of the selecto speed transmissions? :)

http://bham.craigslist.org/grd/5784565191.html
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Avoid select o speeds.
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Any reason why? But I hear you, just crossed that one off my list. :)
 
(quoted from post at 11:39:50 09/18/16)
Massey 135 looks good.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/grd/5764237647.html
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Only downside (but not that bad) is that it has a Continental gas engine, still a good tractor.

The select-o-speed parts can be hard to find (and probably expensive). Plus the select-o-speed have been known to jump into gear on their own, My brother knows a guy who's son was killed by one when it jumped out of park, and into reverse.
 
That's a big price for a gas tractor, especially a MF 135, there is a Case 1190 diesel that comes with a bushhog On the next page that you
could probably buy for the same money.
 
(quoted from post at 15:00:23 09/18/16)
(quoted from post at 11:39:50 09/18/16)
Plus the select-o-speed have been known to jump into gear on their own, My brother knows a guy who's son was killed by one when it jumped out of park, and into reverse.
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Nuff said on that one right there. Don't want any of that action.
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(quoted from post at 13:45:49 09/18/16)
(quoted from post at 15:00:23 09/18/16)
(quoted from post at 11:39:50 09/18/16)
Plus the select-o-speed have been known to jump into gear on their own, My brother knows a guy who's son was killed by one when it jumped out of park, and into reverse.
Click to expand...

Nuff said on that one right there. Don't want any of that action.
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The Select-O-Speed requires adjustment and maintenance that is beyond someone with very limited mechanical experience. Any major problems and they are too expensive for a lot of folks to have repaired.

As far as a loader goes: Depends on what your needs are. I have a loader on a big tractor and a tractor loader backhoe (TLB). Handy as all get out when you need them but I seldom use them. The TLB gets used about 50-60 hours year. This year was unusual and I've got about 100 hours on it so far. Most likely get another 30-40 after harvest digging rocks out for my BIL. The loader on the big tractor has been used once this year to set an outboard motor on a boat. About 15 minutes!

The problem here is you are going to get advice based on favorite brands. Some guys really like their Olivers for example. From everything I know about them they are a good tractor. But here where I live parts and service are poor and 60 miles away to boot. So if I were a collector I might consider Oliver but as a working tractor I would not only because of parts from my nearest dealer! Kubota is 35 miles and is good both parts and service. Support for Ford is 25 miles at the CaseIH dealer. Here the local independent shops will work on most brands.

On another note people will also push you toward a larger tractor and they are nice to have. Thing is you can do as much with a smaller one it just takes longer! So when making your decision look at the time you have available to accomplish what you need to do. If, like Ultradog you are a weekend warrior a bigger tractor may indeed be what you need. We have a guy with a lake home. CEO of a small company in the twin cities. He likes mowing his own lawn. But because he entertains clients at his lake home he bought an 8K (this was several years ago) commercial duty zero turn mower to reduce his mowing time. He can justify it and has the need because of time limits.

Rick
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Tuesday I'm going to do my research on all the dealers around here. Go see them, see what they sell, see what they service, get a feel for them, etc. That may narrow down my brand search a good bit and then I can concentrate on the models I'd consider. I feel I've come a long way with the advice everyone here has given me so far.
 
Let me ask this.... would you guys buy used from a dealer or skip that and buy directly from an owner? Not knowing anything about tractors, I'd be more inclined to buy a used tractor from a dealer, but if they're anything like the car lots around here, I'd be sure to take a tube of grease with me. I really don't want to pay sales tax and don't see any benefit to buying from a dealer and paying his markup unless I just found exactly what I was looking for at a great price. Any thoughts?

And I don't mind a guy making a fair profit and staying in business, I'm all for that, I just don't want to get whatever wore out piece of junk Cletus just traded in and all they did was put air in the tires and pressure washed it. :roll:
 

I haven't read all the comments so this may be a repeat. If you decide on a make and model, don't get too hung up on the price. I know that is a big concern but if you find what you want and it's in relatively good shape then pay what YOU'RE comfortable with. There will always be someone that says you paid too much. Most of the time they couldn't have done any better. Gathering information is good but ultimately you are the one who has to be happy.
That being said, I can give you a couple of example that I've had really good luck with. I have a 4630 Ford that is in the 50-55hp range that has been my go to tractor for raking hay, blading and most light chores. It will easily pull the size of logs you describe. I've also had a little experience with an 1190 Case it was a handy little tractor and many times they can be picked up pretty cheap. Both that I had were diesel and very economical to operate.
 
(quoted from post at 18:03:42 09/18/16) Let me ask this.... would you guys buy used from a dealer or skip that and buy directly from an owner? Not knowing anything about tractors, I'd be more inclined to buy a used tractor from a dealer, but if they're anything like the car lots around here, I'd be sure to take a tube of grease with me. I really don't want to pay sales tax and don't see any benefit to buying from a dealer and paying his markup unless I just found exactly what I was looking for at a great price. Any thoughts?

And I don't mind a guy making a fair profit and staying in business, I'm all for that, I just don't want to get whatever wore out piece of junk Cletus just traded in and all they did was put air in the tires and pressure washed it. :roll:
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Dealers are worth looking at. I would also observe how they treat other customers, and or talk to people who have dealt with that dealer before buying something from them.
 
(quoted from post at 18:03:42 09/18/16) Let me ask this.... would you guys buy used from a dealer or skip that and buy directly from an owner? Not knowing anything about tractors, I'd be more inclined to buy a used tractor from a dealer, but if they're anything like the car lots around here, I'd be sure to take a tube of grease with me. I really don't want to pay sales tax and don't see any benefit to buying from a dealer and paying his markup unless I just found exactly what I was looking for at a great price. Any thoughts?

And I don't mind a guy making a fair profit and staying in business, I'm all for that, I just don't want to get whatever wore out piece of junk Cletus just traded in and all they did was put air in the tires and pressure washed it. :roll:
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Nothing wrong with a dealer buy.

Take a look at what the current trend is newer equipment in your area too. Not on the lot but in the field. Here for example you see mostly JD and CaseIH yet there is an area in southern MN that has a ton of AGCO stuff. Now farmers no matter where are going to have 2 things they look at buying new. Price and if the dealer is going to take care of them. That dealer care will over ride price most of the time. When that 300K tractor breaks down during planting season is the dealer going to get this guy back in the field? I've know dealers here to give a loaner out so a guy can get his crop in. Same thing with harvest. If the dealer can't/won't get the guy back in the field he's going to have trouble selling equipment even if he can beat the price of the competition. So what the local guys are using in newer equipment can tell you a lot about the local dealers just by seeing what's in the fields.

Rick
 
Found a couple shops yesterday that seemed like decent places. Got a decent feel for both of them. Both of them work on Fords, Masseys and JD's. The closest is just a service place, but they sell new and used impliments. The other is a full service Massey dealer and a friend of mine got a good deal on a used tractor there.

So with that old quote in mind..... "Better to do something wrong than to do nothing at all" I'm going to make my choice soon. I can sit here forever looking for the perfect tractor and find something wrong with everything I find. :) I'm not in any big hurry, but I'm ready to get started on my farm.
 

I like my Fords but if your nearest dealer sells Massey's, a 135 Massey is a nice tractor.
Used to be several in my area until the dealer closed.
 
Well, I've got it whittled down to my short list. All are in my price range and I'm leaning towards one or the other because of various things. Some distance related, some just a general feel for the ad I'm reading, etc. I'll have to try to schedule my mechanic buddy to go with me if he's available or another friend who has a lot of tractor experience if he can go with me. If not, I'll just have to trust what I'm told and pray based on the limited knowledge I have from "how to buy a used tractor" web articles. :)

1963 Ford 2000 3 Cylinder Diesel – 8 spd hi/lo
1020 John Deere Gas – 8 spd hi/lo
Massey Ferguson 230 4 Cyl Gas
Massey Ferguson 245 Diesel
Massey Ferguson 360 Turbo Diesel
Massey Ferguson TO35 Gas – hi/lo transmission

All have power steering
 
(quoted from post at 07:33:41 09/22/16) Well, I've got it whittled down to my short list. All are in my price range and I'm leaning towards one or the other because of various things. Some distance related, some just a general feel for the ad I'm reading, etc. I'll have to try to schedule my mechanic buddy to go with me if he's available or another friend who has a lot of tractor experience if he can go with me. If not, I'll just have to trust what I'm told and pray based on the limited knowledge I have from "how to buy a used tractor" web articles. :)

1963 Ford 2000 3 Cylinder Diesel – 8 spd hi/lo
1020 John Deere Gas – 8 spd hi/lo
Massey Ferguson 230 4 Cyl Gas
Massey Ferguson 245 Diesel
Massey Ferguson 360 Turbo Diesel
Massey Ferguson TO35 Gas – hi/lo transmission

All have power steering
Click to expand...

3 cylinder Fords did come out until 65 so it's got to be a little newer than 63
Some of the early small JD's had lots of problems, 1010 for sure, not certain about 1020.
245 would be my choice of the Massey's, it has more power than the 2000
 
(quoted from post at 10:50:37 09/22/16)
3 cylinder Fords did come out until 65 so it's got to be a little newer than 63
Some of the early small JD's had lots of problems, 1010 for sure, not certain about 1020.
245 would be my choice of the Massey's, it has more power than the 2000
Click to expand...

Oh yeah, that's what I saw on tractordata.com and I forgot..... '63 is just what he had and I was going to ask him about that when I called him. It's the newer style 2000. All the reviews and comments I saw about the JD 1020 said it was a good, dependable tractor. Only bad comment I saw was the hydraulics were a bit weak when using a loader, but still ok.
 
Well, I've pretty much made up my mind on the Ford 2000. I think I'd be better off with one of the Massey's with the overhead protection, but I can't get the guy on the phone who has the 230 and 360 listed. I had a good conversation with the owner of the Ford. You ever just kinda get a feeling about classified ads, how they're written and dealing with people? Going to check it out Monday and if it looks good and we can come to terms, that's what I'm bringing home. I appreciate everyone's help!
 
Well, my boy and I went to look at that Ford this afternoon. Turns out it was a '68. Looked pretty decent, but I had one major concern. I printed out the pages of the 2000 service manual concerning serial numbers. According to the serial number, the tractor did indeed have a live 540 PTO. The guy told me the guy he bought it from told him it had a two stage clutch, but that's all he knew about it, he didn't know how to work it. He told me he had to turn the tractor off to engage the PTO and he just cranked it with the PTO engaged. I tried pushing down the clutch and it did feel like it was a two stage clutch catching just a couple inches before it hit the floor, but when the guy would gently try to engage the PTO with the tractor running, it would grind. Is this a sign that neither of us know what the heck we're doing, or a sign that the PTO engagement is worn out or needing work? My other thought was that the original serial number signified that the tractor was built with a live 540 PTO, but possibly the transmission had been changed out at a later date. My son got pictures of all the various serial numbers I think, so we can look that up if we can figure out how to. I admit I was a bit disappointed, but glad I didn't jump into anything. I told him I'd ask my mechanic buddy about it and see if we could figure it out. He really didn't seem like he wanted to sell it even though he's only had it about 6 months. He said he sold his 8N to buy this just to bushhog with, but this was too much. He could do everything he needed to do with his JD zero turn mower. He's only bushhogging a couple acres. Any thoughts? My other question is how do I tell if it has a locking differential? The brake pedals were locked together with a pin underneath, but after the PTO discussion, I didn't feel like getting into a differential discussion with me not knowing anything about that either. (sigh)

My buddies want me to go to a tractor dealer and finance a brand new tractor. They say it will last me the rest of my life and they're probably right. I just see a lot of horror stories from ALL brands about not getting dealers to honor warranty situations and what not. And dang it.... I don't WANT to finance a new tractor. You'd think that at 50 years old, I would know how to handle peer pressure by now. LOL
 
It will need a new clutch or at least a split and some repair. Mine does this and has for 2 years. Just keep putting it off. The pto part of the clutch wears to the point of not dis-engaging, but the main part still works. You can try adjusting the pedal throw but you are just putting off the inevitable. A new complete clutch kit is on the site here. If you can do the work and the tractor is in otherwise good shape I would go ahead and get it. It is usable in it's current condition, as long as the gears can shift ok with the clutch fully down. Certainly you should be able to get the price down significantly with the issue of needing a new 2-stage clutch. They are a bit more $$ than a standard single stage clutch.

John
 
(quoted from post at 07:49:14 09/26/16) If you can do the work and the tractor is in otherwise good shape I would go ahead and get it. It is usable in it's current condition, as long as the gears can shift ok with the clutch fully down. Certainly you should be able to get the price down significantly with the issue of needing a new 2-stage clutch. They are a bit more $$ than a standard single stage clutch.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info John. Nah, I can't do the work. I probably could given enough time, but I need to get working now and don't want to buy a tractor I already know I have to fix. I'll pass on this one. :(
 
Well fellas, I ended up with a brand new New Holland Workmaster 33 with FEL, bush hog and box blade. 32HP, 12x12 shuttle shift, diesel. After looking at that Ford 2000 and the guy trying to play the clutch off as him not knowing how to work it, I realized I didn't really know enough about tractors right now to trust myself to get something decent. I was afraid I would spend all my money and then buy something that needed a huge repair. Like several have told me, I didn't want to buy someone else's problems. I looked at NH, JD, Kubota & MF and NH had the most features in my price range and I got the best feel for the dealer. The MF dealer didn't really give me time of day and the Kubota dealer was like walking onto a used car lot.... you could see the vultures circling. The young fella at the JD dealership was very nice and tried hard, but the JD just didn't have the features the NH had without going to a more expensive tractor. Before I take it over to the farm though, I'll have to replace the brakes on my trailer as they were smoking when I got home, but still working. :) Oh that's something else, the NH was about 600 pounds heavier than the next biggest tractor before you considered the loaders. I'm real excited about it and I really appreciate everyone's help here as always. One of these days, I still hope to snag me a good old tractor to tinker with. Now that I have a "decent" tractor to work with, maybe I can find a good deal on an old beater down the road. Thank y'all!
 
Okey doke, for some reason my photo didn't attach. Musta done something wrong. Let me try that again.....
41131.jpg
 
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