Need some suggestions

Bill in IL

Well-known Member
I am working on a front end of an Allis 7020 trying to widen the front end. Any good suggestions on how to break loose the center tie rod that
runs between the two front tires. The axles will slide but the tie rod is frozen.
 
When I do it I spray it good with juice and let it sit. Then I jack up the front end and start the tractor. I put a two foot two by four between the frame and one tire. Then I turn the steering wheel. It pulls the sleeve out for you. Watch out the window to see when to stop.

I have had to heat stubborn ones before doing this.
 
that is pretty common, heat, oil, heat, oil, tap with hammer tobreak rust loose inside, more oil, try to twist, hook bottom to solid surface and hook top to overhead hoist and pull, sight down it and make sure it isn't bent. I have seen them get bent and lock themselves together.
 
I tried your method yesterday briefly but gave up before I tore something up. I will give it some more heat and see what happens.
 
I take the real stubborn ones off the tractor. I then lay the tube flat on my anvil. Then take a hammer and hit the outside of the tube. Rotate it around while you do this. I DO NOT use any type of spray lube at the first. Any spray lube will bind the rust/dust in the tube. Hitting the tube like I described does two things. One, it knocks the rust loose. Two it stretches the outer tube just a little bit. I blow compresses air around the inter rod after beating on it some. The rust/dust will blow out if left dry. IF you sprayed it with something it will not come out of the inside of the tube.

Then after I have them loose I wire wheel the inter rod and emery wheel the inside of the other tube. I have made extensions for a drill using 1/2 rod rod with 1/4 hole in the end. You can then use emery wheels made for your die grinder in them. When they are clean then never seize the heck out of it. Then when you have it set paint the joint to seal it. Then the inside will rust less the next time.
 
Bill: It takes patience, heat, your favorite penetrating oil, heat, penetrating oil, and some type of pressure. At least it took me 3 weeks of that repeated on a IH wide front end. Finally I saw a little movement and then some pressure with persuasion from the sledge hammer. Don't give up; it will come apart.
 
Drill a hole the proper size in the tube past the end of solid shaft of tierod, tap it and screw in a greese fitting and put your greese gun on the zerk and start pumping. May still take some persuasion from a BFH but it will eventually move.
Loren
 
Funny thing is once I have it set wide I don't plan to ever move it (I am sure you know how that goes) since this tractor is just a batwing mowing tractor. Right now it's set as narrow as possible and I have been rather conservative white mowing. I am thinking taking it off as you suggestmay since I am always fighting the wheels with anything I do.
 
I recently bought a used Bush Hog auger, it had been laying outside and the driveshaft was rusted solid. I hooked the driveshaft between 2 trees with a come-a-long, put about 3000 lbs. of tension on it and then heated. When it got smoking hot I started tapping on it and POW, it popped apart. I cleaned it real good inside and out and greased it and it works well.
 
Bill I have had to pull them apart with a tractor. China one end to a post and hook the other to a tractor. I have had to jerk them to get them to slide even then.
 

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