I'm sure this has been asked before but its a oil ? just prices Caseih HYTRAN at 19.95/gal bulk , just what makes this gold compared to Napa Hydraulic Fluid - All-Purpose Tractor 5 GAL, at 40$/5 gal?, this will be used in 90 and 94 series case tractor , really hurts the pocket book with sub 3$ corn when you have a blown hose or need to work on tractor tia
- Thread starter rndy3788
- Start date
notjustair
Well-known Member
I use HyTran. I'm sure I could substitute but I don't want to trade pennies for a problem. I honestly can't recall what I just paid a bucket, but when I need more I usually consider it $75 down the drain. Makes me cringe each time I take off an implement and see some run into the ground. If it makes you feel better JD HyGuard is just as stupid.
so if it says replaces or compatible with CASEIH HYTRAN it should be equal?, I'm lost on oil, been using case oil , usually buy bulk in the spring on special, but one blown hose that you ddnt catch right away , and dam there went 20to 30 gallons down the drain , at least the EPA hasn't caught me and fined me for dumping oil
Case Nutty 1660
Well-known Member
the aftermarket oil that's say's it will replace Hy-Tran does not have the additives that Hy-Tran has, there is a difference but its your machine / money so feel free to use what you want,,, I run over 30 CASE machines on my farm all of them run Hy-Tran to me oil is cheap,, repairs are not,, after selling/repairing and running Case equipment since 1966 I chose to use this oil only,,, I have never had a failure using the correct oil but have done Many repairs to others machines who did again your machine use what you like as I am sure someone will tell me I am wrong and that's fine
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casecollectorsc
Well-known Member
- Location
- E central SD.
Just bought hy-tran yesterday.....$75 for 5 gallons, down from $84 last fall.....E SD.
rndy many years ago when I was in the fuel business I spent quite a bit of my time in a lab watching and helping run tests on many different brands of oil and comparing to the oil we sold. The oil we sold exceeded ALL of Hytran, JD's and Allis Chalmers recommendations. After 1000's of hours of testing the equipment was taken apart, miced, inspected under high power scopes. All equipment was reassembled with new seals and sent back to the owners. We found no difference in the oil performance that we sold compared to name brand oils. House burnt in the 1990's so I have no data to back this up.
It depends on WHAT your using it in. If the tractor has any kind of a wet clutch pack in it I use that manufacture's oil period.
My son just repaired one tractor that was damaged by the wrong oil last spring, a clean/sharp JD 4455 PS that the NEW owner thought that he would save a few dollars using a "equivalent" hydraulic oil. Tis tractor sold privately last spring with only 3800 hours. So he gave close to $40K for this tractor. HE took it home and changed all the oils/fluids/filters. ALL cheap fluids and filters. Autozone anti freeze. Hydraulic oil and engine oil from some little local oil supplier that handles off brands at "bargain" prices. The hydraulic oil stated it was JD 303 equivalent.
When he went to the field after the second day of primary tillage the tractor would not pull itself under any type of load. HE was screaming that the prior owner had scammed him. I know both so (my son and I) got them both to settle down and let us find out what was wrong before lawyers. We found out that all the transmission pressures where correct. No filings/grit/metal in the sump. So we torn into the tractor. Every clutch pack lining had delaminated from the plates they were glued too. So they slipped on the glued side. The brakes had just lost the pads but it was not driven far enough to wear the steel brake disk plate. So the power shift clutch packs had to be rebuild, the PTO clutch, the main torque limiter disk, and the brake pads/linings/disks,
The final bill parts and labor was over $10K. There still maybe a suet over this. The new owner still thinks "his" oil did not cause the trouble. Well something caused any clutch plate in the entire tractor to fail at the same time. We all told him if the tractor has anything but JD hygard used in it them there is ZERO warranty on the repairs.
My son just repaired one tractor that was damaged by the wrong oil last spring, a clean/sharp JD 4455 PS that the NEW owner thought that he would save a few dollars using a "equivalent" hydraulic oil. Tis tractor sold privately last spring with only 3800 hours. So he gave close to $40K for this tractor. HE took it home and changed all the oils/fluids/filters. ALL cheap fluids and filters. Autozone anti freeze. Hydraulic oil and engine oil from some little local oil supplier that handles off brands at "bargain" prices. The hydraulic oil stated it was JD 303 equivalent.
When he went to the field after the second day of primary tillage the tractor would not pull itself under any type of load. HE was screaming that the prior owner had scammed him. I know both so (my son and I) got them both to settle down and let us find out what was wrong before lawyers. We found out that all the transmission pressures where correct. No filings/grit/metal in the sump. So we torn into the tractor. Every clutch pack lining had delaminated from the plates they were glued too. So they slipped on the glued side. The brakes had just lost the pads but it was not driven far enough to wear the steel brake disk plate. So the power shift clutch packs had to be rebuild, the PTO clutch, the main torque limiter disk, and the brake pads/linings/disks,
The final bill parts and labor was over $10K. There still maybe a suet over this. The new owner still thinks "his" oil did not cause the trouble. Well something caused any clutch plate in the entire tractor to fail at the same time. We all told him if the tractor has anything but JD hygard used in it them there is ZERO warranty on the repairs.
Determined
Well-known Member
If I were to guess I would say there had to have been water in the system at one point.
The glue/bonding agent for most friction linings is aqueous based and will deteriorate quickly if water is in the system.
Were there any signs of rust or corrosion inside of it?
I am not speaking for or against economy oils but even the best liquid gold money can buy will still result in a failure if water is mixed in when it is changed.
Bucket that had been left open during a rain?
Fill plug left off while washing the tractor?
Maybe someone poured wrong fluid in wrong hole of new machine the were not familiar with?
Case Nutty 1660
Well-known Member
I have seen the same failure in a few CASE tractors with a non-OEM oil was installed and the glue let loose from the steel plates,, has Nothing to do with water entry if it did there would be Far more failures,
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cnt
Determined: In this case we KNOW it was the oil that caused the trouble. The barrel does say it is the equivalent to JD 303. The actual spec sheet says in clear print that it is NOT to be used in any system that has a wet clutch.
We just found this out this afternoon. The oil company guy was here to take some samples. We saved everything out of this tractor. All oils, coolant and damaged parts. My son has photos of everything as it was being tested and disassembled. We knew from the get go on this one it could very well end up in court. I told my son to document everything he could so we have a defense if we are called into question down the road on this. We also kept samples of the coolant and oils that we installed in the tractor.
We just found this out this afternoon. The oil company guy was here to take some samples. We saved everything out of this tractor. All oils, coolant and damaged parts. My son has photos of everything as it was being tested and disassembled. We knew from the get go on this one it could very well end up in court. I told my son to document everything he could so we have a defense if we are called into question down the road on this. We also kept samples of the coolant and oils that we installed in the tractor.
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
I don't trust cheap oils.
The NAPA guys around here claim Valvoline bottles all their oil for them, but is it Valvoline oil in a NAPA bottle, or NAPA-spec oil in the NAPA bottle?
We replaced every hose on the old Ford backhoe when I was in high school. Filled with pitt-penn (half the price of Wolf's Head at the time) and the hydraulics got so hot the hoses would burn you if you touched one.
If it's not the manufacturer's oil, or a major name brand, I'll pass.
The NAPA guys around here claim Valvoline bottles all their oil for them, but is it Valvoline oil in a NAPA bottle, or NAPA-spec oil in the NAPA bottle?
We replaced every hose on the old Ford backhoe when I was in high school. Filled with pitt-penn (half the price of Wolf's Head at the time) and the hydraulics got so hot the hoses would burn you if you touched one.
If it's not the manufacturer's oil, or a major name brand, I'll pass.
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