- Thread starter jjtwister
- Start date
Dan Richardson
Member
If you can find it 'no ethanol' regular 87 octane. I also recomend MMO four oz. in ten gallons of corn free gas.
gene bender
Well-known Member
I have two 50 models and run 10% blend all yr round no additives just a waste of money
Galen Houk
Member
Use only non oxigenated (no ethanol) fuel in anything that is not used frequently.
Those things were built when gas came in many different, low grade versions. They run on a lot of stuff. Don't worry about it.
The lack of lead might wear out the valve seats in 5000 hours. When you overhaul the head, valve seats will fix that issue for the next 5000-
10000 hours.
There is no real good perfect additive to replace lead in the gas. If you add up the cost of those $5 bottles of attitive over the years, you will
spend a whole lot of money on the additives and in 5000 hours your head will still need a rebuild anyhow. All you did was spend extra money
and didn't do much.
Save your money, use any good gas, and get a valve job when needed, which won't be for a long time (or is overdue already if you got a well
used tractor...).
Now, if you think ethanol in gas is a sign of the devil, by all means seek out 'pure' gasoline! After all every bad thing ever in humankind is the
result of turning corn starch into motor fuel.....on the other hand gasoline is a combination of 400 very different chemicals some of which cause
gum and tar, some evaporate at 40 degrees while others evaporate at several 100 degrees, and so on. Whatever you believe on this topic is of
course true, and we could achieve world peace if only we stopped using any ethanol and went back to buying our motor fuells from the Middle
East.
Possibly a little sarcasm there at the end, but attitives only make you feel good, you will end up with about the same overhaul costs with or
without thrm, I would save my money for the overhauls every 5000 or so hours.......
Paul
The lack of lead might wear out the valve seats in 5000 hours. When you overhaul the head, valve seats will fix that issue for the next 5000-
10000 hours.
There is no real good perfect additive to replace lead in the gas. If you add up the cost of those $5 bottles of attitive over the years, you will
spend a whole lot of money on the additives and in 5000 hours your head will still need a rebuild anyhow. All you did was spend extra money
and didn't do much.
Save your money, use any good gas, and get a valve job when needed, which won't be for a long time (or is overdue already if you got a well
used tractor...).
Now, if you think ethanol in gas is a sign of the devil, by all means seek out 'pure' gasoline! After all every bad thing ever in humankind is the
result of turning corn starch into motor fuel.....on the other hand gasoline is a combination of 400 very different chemicals some of which cause
gum and tar, some evaporate at 40 degrees while others evaporate at several 100 degrees, and so on. Whatever you believe on this topic is of
course true, and we could achieve world peace if only we stopped using any ethanol and went back to buying our motor fuells from the Middle
East.
Possibly a little sarcasm there at the end, but attitives only make you feel good, you will end up with about the same overhaul costs with or
without thrm, I would save my money for the overhauls every 5000 or so hours.......
Paul
Mike Aylward
Well-known Member
Don't fear ethanol. I've used it for 40 years with zero ill effects. Mike
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Leaded gasoline has not been available for at least 40 years now, and the tractors that were built in the '40s and '50s are still running just fine on unleaded. I've got 2 Farmalls that were made in 1940, and another that was made in 1950. All 3 run just fine on E10 gasoline, and have been for the last 18 or so years that I've owned them. Your Cub will do just fine on Regular unleaded or E10. It won't know the difference.
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
I think mine has probably a couple of gallons of E85 in it, mixed with regular pump gas, thats been in it a couple of years now,
and it fires up every time. (This tractor only comes out once or twice a year, and it does have stabilizer in it.)
and it fires up every time. (This tractor only comes out once or twice a year, and it does have stabilizer in it.)
I find it very funny on a forum where a lot of members are FARMERS or retired FARMERS that people ask about gas and of course you always get the "corn" gas is fine, no problems, oh the small engine industry is only saying don't run it because it's an conspiracy.....
Not saying it's good or bad, only that some on here have a vested interest in SELLING MORE CORN!
I'd go find a gear head forum and ask there, or maybe a petro chemical engineer forum.....
Rick
Not saying it's good or bad, only that some on here have a vested interest in SELLING MORE CORN!
I'd go find a gear head forum and ask there, or maybe a petro chemical engineer forum.....
Rick
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
Not true. Leaded gas is available RIGHT NOW. At the airport or the race track. It is only restricted from highway use.
As a side note, the lead compound added to gasoline in the old days was the very worst thing for engines. Typically, in those days, an engine was worn out and burning oil at 70,000 to 80,000 miles. Disassembly of one of those engines revealed deposits of gray goop in every nook and cranny of the engine. Cleanup for a major repair was a nightmare. The removal of lead from gasoline was the best thing that ever happened to automotive engines.
As a side note, the lead compound added to gasoline in the old days was the very worst thing for engines. Typically, in those days, an engine was worn out and burning oil at 70,000 to 80,000 miles. Disassembly of one of those engines revealed deposits of gray goop in every nook and cranny of the engine. Cleanup for a major repair was a nightmare. The removal of lead from gasoline was the best thing that ever happened to automotive engines.
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
The fuel that makes it go is probably the "best" fuel to use.
If your fuel system is clean, E10 or non-ethanol should work just fine. While I am not a fan of ethanol as a fuel, once the fuel system is cleaned out it will be OK. For other reasons, I prefer non-ethanol gas.
If your fuel system is clean, E10 or non-ethanol should work just fine. While I am not a fan of ethanol as a fuel, once the fuel system is cleaned out it will be OK. For other reasons, I prefer non-ethanol gas.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Yes. Lead was added to all gasoline. Even MORE lead was added to the "Ethyl", higher octane version.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
I had to give up farming in about 1979. I do not now, nor have I ever had a vested interest in the ethanol industry. I recommend the E10 based solely on my experiences. If I had a problem with it, I wouldn't use it. Simple as that.
Here we have a lot of people that have problems. Mostly with small engine stuff. They own lake homes that they open in May and close in Sep. So their lawn mowers, string trimmers and outboard motors set with gas in the tank 7-9 months. For the year round folks it's mostly snow blower problems as they only get run on average 4-5 months. Ethanol laced gas start turning after 90 without treatment of some type and about 6 months with treatments. The place my wife works is a Cstore and outdoor power equipment dealer with minor car repair and tires. In the spring they are swamped with mostly carb problems. I've experienced a few myself. Sense going over to non oxygenated gas in my small engine I've had no fuel related problems. That includes 2 chain saws, push mower, walk behind string trimmer, rototiller, Z turn mower and 2 outboards. I had to replace the carb (about 5 bucks more for a new carb than a kit) on the tiller once, push mower twice, one chainsaw (BIL's fault I think) plus I was rebuilding carbs on one or the other outboard every year. Didn't have any problems with the gas tractors but I shut the fuel off, run the carb dry and drain the gas on each one every fall. I now do that with my small engines too.
Rick
Wheres Waldo
Member
Hi guys and gals. Once again I have to say that IF your engine has cork gaskets in the carburetor you DON'T want to use ethanol. Reason being cork is 'glued' together with a substance called shellac. Shellac dissolves in alcohol, but not in 'pure' gasoline. Some older engines had cork floats in the carburetor which would be damaged and gaskets, when exposed to ethanol fuel and allowed to dry (running the carb out of fuel) shrink! I KNOW this as my 4-barrel Holley would need a rebuild every Spring after sitting out the Winter in the barn. Now Holley has fuel resistant bowl gaskets-my personal jury is still out, although I doubt Holley would have gone to the trouble to market them if there wasn't a problem.
IHC old recommendation- one cup of engine oil to 5 gallons of farm gasoline-- which in some places was very low lead. Brigges old recommendation- plain or unleaded gasoline 80 octane for the normal compression flatheads, White Gas/Naptha(coleman fuel) acceptable with some engine oil added for cold weather. Roger Welch book has a 100:1 2 stroke oil added to the unleaded gasoline as valve lube. I use non ethanol premium from Citgo or Kwik Trip for the older rigs like my Goldwing and the chainsaws, old flathead lawnmowers, a splash of Marvel Mystery oil or Rislone or the chainsaw 2 stroke oil from local hardware and chainsaw store- Stihl brand, Husky branded or base one gallon Wallmart 2 stroke oil for aircooled engines. Cub is low compression flathead and if you can get regular no ethanol it will be about like the distillate fuel of the time when some 2 stroke oil is added. Old BP(?) 'tractor fuel' was about 1/2 unleaded gas, 1/2 kerosene/light diesel/furnace oil, no road tax and used in winter for some diesel engines, replaced the 'distillate fuel' that was not produced as much after WW2 when continuous distilling of petro products was improved over the modified pot distillation methods that had the 'not quite one type or other' remnants of temperature dependent condensed in lines product before next higher temperature product. Ethanol is a solvent, sometimes that can be a problem and the 'phase separation' of water during storage is another. Have fun, don't check the fuel level while smoking, check engine oil and go play in the dirt. RN
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
I use it in my small engines also. I never drain the fuel at the end of the season and the lawnmowers, etc, always start right up the next spring. I'm in southwest Iowa. the humidity can get up to 80% to 90% quite easily. Never had any problems with water in the gas.
TomH in PA
Well-known Member
"Leaded gasoline has not been available for at least 40 years now"
Any small airport will sell you E0 leaded gas, that's what small planes use. It isn't cheap though.
Most marinas sell E0 unleaded gas, but again it costs more than what your corner gas station sells.
Any small airport will sell you E0 leaded gas, that's what small planes use. It isn't cheap though.
Most marinas sell E0 unleaded gas, but again it costs more than what your corner gas station sells.
Dave in Tx
Member
Mike, have a son in law and daughter in queen city mo and they say the same, however here in central tx I couldn't tell you the number of feet of regular fuel line I have changed from being collapsed in both smALL engines and tractors. The fuel here or the weather seems to have an impact on fuel lines. I use Sea Foam in all fuel I use here and have no problem at all, but I also use steel fuel cans that are sealed when stored and feel they contribute to the lack of problems....
MarkB_MI
Well-known Member
- Location
- Motown USA
It's not like you have a lot of choice. 87 octane E10 is probably what you can buy, so that's what you use. No additives needed.
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