2n timeing

Smokey37 · Aug 11, 2016

fired up new over haul, ran great at low rpm but won't rev at full throttle.

Installed new cam gear checked timming four times matching crank mark with cam mark, if marks were off would motor engine would engine still run great at low rpm.

carb was overhaulded. Any ideas?

Thanks Smokey

David G · Aug 11, 2016

Did you double check point gap?

Steve@Advance · Aug 11, 2016

That it will idle, probably not the cam timing off.

What are the symptoms? Smoke? Backfire?

Double check the points, spark quality.

Try a partial choke, if it improves the running, open the main jet more. If worse and black smoke, turn the main in some.

Be sure there is fuel getting into the carb. With the fuel valve open pull the carb drain plug, it should flow a full stream, then slow to a trickle. If it slows to a drip, or stops, there is a fuel restriction. Also catch the fuel that comes out in s clean glass, check for water or rust contamination.

guido · Aug 11, 2016

Hello smokey37,

Governor linkage on correctly? Fuel pressure-volune?, points gap?. What is the vacuum. Pressure? Was engine running good with plenty of ignition? Timing does not seam the issue..

Guido.

old · Aug 11, 2016

What do you have the points set at?? That is a front mount distributor so the points should be set at 0.015.
Just because the carb has been rebuilt does not mean it does not have a clogged passageway some where.
Does choking it hurt or help??

gene bender · Aug 11, 2016

your timing is ok or it wouldnt run at all or start check linkage and gov operation

rustred · Aug 11, 2016

you better check the carb, as it appears the pickup tube may be plugged. dont matter what u have the points or timing set to ... as it still will rev up where ever they are set. if its dying when throttled up pull out the choke and see what happens. if it revs up up found the culprit. that "overhauled" word is a bad word. just because it was taken apart and cleaned or supposedly... dont mean its overhauled. its either fuel or governor. as your explaination is poor. usually when an engine starts dying you pull the choke to keep it going. and didnt say if it even trys to rev up then cuts out? or is there even any throttle response.

wilson ind · Aug 11, 2016

Had smta timed as per IT manual years ago. Marks were wrong in manual/ Tractor started, ran at idle . No power but ran smooth,. Therefore could be cam timing. Yes they will run .

David G · Aug 11, 2016

Points that are gapped way off will not completely close/ope and high rpm

Royse · Aug 11, 2016

"Any ideas?"

Yes, post your question on the YT 9N/2N/8N forum [b:52f2e70dbc]here.[/b:52f2e70dbc]
Most of the guys on all of the YT forums are very knowledgeable and helpful.
However many have never worked on a Ford with a front mount
distributor and base their responses on "general" knowledge and
mechanical experience with other machines.
That doesn't always lend itself to fixing your problem on a front mount.

Smokey37 · Aug 12, 2016

OK' here we go'
The carb was boiled out, new kit installed, ck. float and float level. Start it , run just up from idle , runs sweet, pull 'er to full then it spits and farts and won't rev. choke by butterfly AND hand does nothing. The exhaust/intake manifold is new,(exhaust leaked) so I don't think there is a intake leak., so I did not ck. point gap (WRONG MOVE0
The tractor ran good before I removed the engine for the 2nd time. I did ck timing on the bench as per utube, and it was right on. I had to replace the cam gear (loose center) even with that it ran gooa. I pulled it down to fix the blow by. That's why , evrn though I checked the marks 4 times, I may have messed up there, I don't think so... Thanks for the c0me back. Smokey

t

Smokey37 · Aug 12, 2016

I did not ck the gap just the timing. It ran so good before. I don't have the hood on so I guess to pull rad to pull distributor would be the way to go. Boy am I getting tired of working on this beast!! Thank you much for great ideas. Smokey

Royse · Aug 12, 2016

(quoted from post at 17:44:29 08/12/16) I did not ck the gap just the timing. It ran so good before. I don't have the hood on so I guess to pull rad to pull distributor would be the way to go. Boy am I getting tired of working on this beast!! Thank you much for great ideas. Smokey

No need to pull the radiator!
Two bolts, three clips and the distributor comes off.
You set gap and timing on the bench then put it back on.
It only goes on one way without breaking it.

Optionally you can take off the one wire to the top of the coil
and take the coil out with it to test for continuity/operation
through it as well. I usually do it that way for my sanity.

old · Aug 12, 2016

I would check the point gap and make sure it is the 0.015 it should be just in case they slipped or they happen to be set wrong. Point gap set wrong will mess with the timing big time

2n timeing

Smokey37

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David G

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Steve@Advance

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guido

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old

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gene bender

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rustred

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wilson ind

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David G

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Royse

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Smokey37

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Smokey37

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Royse

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old

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