Help - wheel clamp woes

In the spring I moved the wheels on the IH 886. It used to have duals but now has singles with the cast centers and clamps (not wedges). Now I can't keep one side tight. More info:

I was haying one day and stopped for lunch. That's when I saw one tire had walked to the end of the axle. The inner and outer clamps were finger tight. I jacked it up and moved it back. I checked it periodically. Two days later it had moved again. One of the studs was gone. I pulled the clamp out and found that the missing one had snapped off some time before. The broken part was rusty so it must have happened way back when I moved them the first time. Since what was left of the stud only had three threads to bite on, I figured that was why that stud came out.

I STILL have to tighten it every day/10 hours. The outside clamp hasn't loosened but the inside one still does. I have locktighted it and put on lock washers.

What can I go to keep it tight? I've never had this happen in all of my IH years. The axle isn't rusty or have any residue, and the clamp is centered in the opening - one side isn't drawn farther than the other. The threads are good in the clamp. The wheel itself isn't boogered up or cracked that would cause a wobble. I've tried to cover everything I could thinking. I used green locktight - I guess I could buy the nasty strong stuff. Anyone else have this problem? Seems to me a year or so there was a green one that lost a wheel, but I don't think the two bangers have the same setup.

This won't help you but this post reminded me of something my grandpa used to say if a nut or bolt kept working loose. Once you get it in place pi$$ on it to make it stay. The theory being it would rust on. I was only a month old when he died but if any of the stories I've heard about him are true I have not doubt he did it.

Try the IH forum on this site. This topic comes up fairly often there. Search through the archives to see some solutions.

Make darn sure the wheel is not contacting the axle in the center rounded part of wheel. There should be a little clearance and only contact axle on the flats. I have even inserted thin strips of steel on the flats just to prove the point before wheel was taken off and a little metal removed for clearance. We had trouble with several wheels but mostly dual hubs were the biggest problem. Those heavy two u clamp M & W were the worst. Guys were tightening them with a ten foot pipe and still came loose. Removed some material for clearance and just regular tightening and I think they are still on now 30 plus years later. NEIGHBOR at the farm.

My IH 1466 will work the right hand hub out if I move it without using Loctite on the axle and hub. I move the hub to where I want it and then let the tractor down so I have clearance between the axle and hub. I clean both the axle and hub with parts cleaner. I then apply Loctite 620 to the axle and hub. I then jack the tractor up to were the axle and hub are tight and install the clamps. I tighten the clamp bolts with a 3/4 ratchet and four foot pipe. I then let the tractor set over night for the Loctite to cure. I have never had one walk after doing this. To move the wheel I just jack the tractor up with the clamps down. Remove the clamp and let the jack down. The weight of the tractor will usually break the Loctite bond.

Your wheel has been run loose get a good used one in the yards

Kent in right, have seen dozens of them. Usually happens when they are not rechecked after a couple of hours of running.