The valve seals in my 1974 IH 1600 loadstar w/345 V8 are worn and it uses some oil. I've tried several different brands of valve seal sealant or engine oil stop leak and it seems to help for a short time then it goes back to using and burning oil. Has anyone found a brand that really works good?? Lucas seems to be the best I've found but after a month or so it doesn't work very well. I've not tried AMS oil brand yet. Anyone know of another good fix for the leaky valve seals? I don't drive the truck but once every a week or two and hate to tear it down just yet.
- Thread starter nh8260
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Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
That snake oil works exactly as it is intended, it removes bank deposits from your account! LOL
Save your money, fix it before it craters and is beyond repair!
Leaking valve seals typically cause smoke on start up, and when decelerating. That the oil is draining down the valve guides could also be an indication the guides and stems are worn. Continuing to drive it increases the probability that it could have catastrophic valve failure, destroying the engine!
Smoke on acceleration is a sign of worn rings. If this is not happening, you can buy some time by doing a top end, pulling the heads and having them worked. This is also an opportunity to clean the carbon deposits that may be blocking the oil from draining back down from the valve covers, another cause of start up smoke and oil consumption.
Save your money, fix it before it craters and is beyond repair!
Leaking valve seals typically cause smoke on start up, and when decelerating. That the oil is draining down the valve guides could also be an indication the guides and stems are worn. Continuing to drive it increases the probability that it could have catastrophic valve failure, destroying the engine!
Smoke on acceleration is a sign of worn rings. If this is not happening, you can buy some time by doing a top end, pulling the heads and having them worked. This is also an opportunity to clean the carbon deposits that may be blocking the oil from draining back down from the valve covers, another cause of start up smoke and oil consumption.
J. Schwiebert
Well-known Member
Refresh my memory here on that engine please. Does it have positive valve seals now? If so have you thought about changing them while the heads are on using air pressure?
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
Bet I remember they are the umbrella type and hard as ell some sort of plastic... Not a soft rubber are at least the zaust stem seals were.
If it originally had umbrella type seals, it is possible to machine the top of the valve guides to accept Teflon positive seals. I have done this to several engines years ago, with an excellent reduction in oil consumption. If they are still in business, Perfect Circle made these seals and they may still be available. If your valve guides are excessively worn, you will need to replace or knurl them prior to installing new seals, or the new seals will not last.
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
Here we go again with the "mechanic in a can" syndrome. What you have is a very robust engine in a fairly worn state. A proper valve job with new seals, guides as necessary, and valve reseating will give it a whole new lease on life.
Your options are to fix it right or just keep pouring money into snake oil trying to "fix" it.
Here is the REAL DEAL:
There is NOTHING, repeat NOTHING in a can that will replace metal that has been worn away. There is also NOTHING that will replace old hardened, cracked, and just plain SHOT seals.
Your options are to fix it right or just keep pouring money into snake oil trying to "fix" it.
Here is the REAL DEAL:
There is NOTHING, repeat NOTHING in a can that will replace metal that has been worn away. There is also NOTHING that will replace old hardened, cracked, and just plain SHOT seals.
I had the same problem with seals on a 350 chevy in a C60 truck, friend on mine said don't do it cause it will seal it to good and really start taking oil, he worked at a dealer that sold a lot of trucks. He was right, after driving 30-40 miles you had to add 2-3 quarts of oil, the first trip with the new seals I lost oil pressure after 50 miles, added four qts and kept on going. Just my experience. chris
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
Just keep adding oil and drive it . OR pull the heads your choice.
Butch(OH)
Well-known Member
Not news you want to hear but fixing your problems requires repairs, not cans of juice. Put your money into motor oil until you can fix it. Are you certain it is coming from the valves or guessing? I have never been into a 345 so I dont know what type it has. Simple umbrellas are more forgiving of other problems but if you have real stem seals then 99% of the time when seals need replaced it is because of excessive valve stem to guide clearances and new seals either dont last very long or do nothing to reduce oil consumption unless stem to guide clearances are put back to spec.
dr sportster
Well-known Member
I agree with Butch .Oil is getting past your seals and coming down worn out guides.
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
No engine has ever been destroyed to my knowledge by faulty valve seals. They just cause a bit more oil consumption. No need to get all extreme about it.
International did not use bonnet seals on V266,V304, V345 or V392 engines. A square shoulder 0-ring was between upper valve spring retainer and valve stem. They can be replaced by pressuring up cylinder thur spark plug hole to hold valves up and closed. One at a time. Also-as I have done-Chevrolet bonnets can be added at the same time.
Dave
Dave
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