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POR15 vs. RUSTGUY

R

rwalton1961

Member
I just bought a late model NH manure spreader. It is only a couple of years old, the outside looks new, the inside looks 20 yrs old. This spreader came from a dairy farm. Between this never being cleaned...and the fact that NH didn't spend much on paint...the sheetmetal is very rusty. I pressure washed it to see how bad it is....some places where there is no rust....the paint just peeled off leaving shiny new metal. I'm wanting to clean the rust up...and stop future rust. Which would be the best choice....POR15 or RUSTGUY?? Thanks
 
Por does not stick to shiny metal very well I am not familiar with the other product. Teflon based hopper paint might work. Others will chime in. Jim
 
If its rusty POR 15 seems to interact with the rust and will stop the rust, in a fertilizer/lime drop spreader I redid I used POR 15 then sprayed it with a paint called
Plastic-Coat and its done good.I've cleaned up many tractor rims with a brush or grinder and then coated them with POR 15 and then painted them that were rusty and its held up real well.
 
I would wire wheel the rust off and use plan old Rustoleum. Not spray cans but quarts or gallon paint. POR15 needs a lot of surface prep and won't work on metal that is clean. There is a cleaning product and a acid wash product that they sell with POR 15 and you need to use it to make it work. It needs the pitted rusty surface to stick. My neighbor tried it on a car frame and it didn't stick. Peeled off after a few months. The only down side of Rustoleum is it takes a couple of weeks for it to fully dry unless you use a hardner. Hardners are full of bad chemicals and you need a scuba type supplied air mask to use them.
 
With POR 15 I just get the loose rust off the surface, wipe the surface off with a damp rag to get off the loose dust let it dry good and then use a paint brush to put on the POR 15 no problems with it coming
off the metal.Rustoleum primer only lays on the surface POR 15 reacts with the rusted metal to form a bond.If the surface has a film on it then I spray it with ether or brake cleaner to prep it.A vehicle frame will probably have some oil or salt residue on the surface that needs to come off for anything to stick.
 

I haven't used either. I use SEM Rust Mort, to convert the rust, after getting the surface fairly clean. Make sure that you crawl under and check the axle. Some of those NHs rusted out really bad underneath.
 
Do they still sell 395A ? Put that stuff on there ! POR15 will come right off in areas it gets sunlight. On my 1996 Dodge I painted the rear hitch and it came right off even used the prep acid wash ? Now I had some left over and just slopped it on my rusty driveshafts with no prep and it really held up well on them.
 
Like said by others Por15 needs a lot of prep and doesn't stay on in sunlight they say in the instructions you have to paint it. Rustoleum works great used it on my semi's rusty frame, worked better than factory. used it with hardner sprayed outside so no problem with bad vapors..
 
I have no experience with Rustguy though there's tons of converter products out there that are all the same phosphoric acid base just with different names and price points--the price point usually being tied to how much the manufacturer had to pay whomever the celebrity is they hired to endorse it. I've used POR-15 with excellent results on a number of projects--it WILL hold up in sunlight, but it won't stay colorfast, which is why they recommend topcoating it. Biggest thing with POR-15 is to READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS--sounds trivial, but it's not, and if you just open the can and start slapping paint on you're not going to get best results. Granting that's true of ANY paint job--prep is by far the most important part of painting--but it's especially true here if you want it to hold up. Second thing is not to cheap out on the prep--buy the cleaner and pre-treat and read and follow THOSE directions as well. Done right, it's tremendously durable, though I'll admit I've never had a reason to put it on a manure spreader before!
 
(quoted from post at 10:43:59 07/12/16) How about trying spray in bed liner ?
Click to expand...

Bed liner maintains its flexibility, so as the rust gets thicker underneath it, it doesn't break like paint does so it holds together longer.
 
I don't think that I would want bedliner in a spreader, with it being textured and rubberized, seems like there would be a lot of drag pushing manure out....and I definitely wouldn't want rust building up under it without being able to see it. I will topcoat with Rustoleum. I have used Rustoleum Rust Reformer, then topcoated with Rustoleum paint with good results. But not in a manure spreader. I was just wondering if there was something better. Sounds like some guys swear by POR15...and others would never use it again... I wonder how ospho would work...then Rust Reformer...followed by topcoat...
 
(quoted from post at 18:14:41 07/12/16) I don't think that I would want bedliner in a spreader, with it being textured and rubberized, seems like there would be a lot of drag pushing manure out....and I definitely wouldn't want rust building up under it without being able to see it. I will topcoat with Rustoleum. I have used Rustoleum Rust Reformer, then topcoated with Rustoleum paint with good results. But not in a manure spreader. I was just wondering if there was something better. Sounds like some guys swear by POR15...and others would never use it again... I wonder how ospho would work...then Rust Reformer...followed by topcoat...
Click to expand...

A good heavy brushed on coat of Rustoleum will protect the rust under it too, because a heavy coat maintains a little flexibility.
 
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