(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Ford 901 tractor timing

T

Thintz

Member
I have an early gas ford 901 that ran fine with no load, but bucked when I mowed. Points were definitely pitted and disfigured so I replaced points, plugs, condenser, rotor and wires. Ran better but after a day of light mowing it's starting to exhibit some of its old behavior. Exhaust runs hot, run-on, and I can here it missing after a while. Distributor hasn't been apart but I'm no mechanic so I'm reluctant to rip in without cause. I thought I'd start with timing.

I gather the procedure to check timing is to move a cover found in the lower right of the frame covering the timing marks, advance the engine to 5 degrees btdc. The loosen the distributor and position the points to just closed. Is that about right?
 
Best to highlight your timing marks
and use a timing light with engine
running. "Static " timing (without
engine running) is not nearly as
accurate.
 
For static timing, set crankshaft to 5? BTDC, then set distributor housing in the direction OPPOSITE of rotor rotation 'til the points just OPEN. That;s when spark occurs.
 
With engine running hook timing lite to each wire at a time and waatch for solid spark intermitten spark on any wire means the dist has bad bushings. Each wire should show good spark.
 
Aside from a hot exhaust, the symptoms you relate do not indicate incorrect ignition timing.

That said, the easiest way to set ignition timing is with the use of a timing light IF AND ONLY IF you your engine will idle at 450 RPM or below. Most vintage Ford tractor engines will not idle at such low RPM due to wear in the throttle shaft bore.

If your engine will idle at 450 RPM or below, beg, borrow or steal a timing light and set the ignition timing to 4 degrees BTDC.

You may need to clean the flywheel to see the timing marks. I use gasoline on a bristle brush with the endine running. Once I can see the timing marks, I index the engine such that I can mark the 4 degree BTDC mark with white paint and a model brush.

If this is not possible, post back for proper static ignition timing procedures, which, if properly performed, are as precise as are timing light procedures.

Dean
 
Hello Thintz,

If you have, or you can borrow a vacuum gauge try this: loosen the distributor just enough so that you can
move it, but tight enough that won't move on it's own. Hook up your vacuum gauge, and set engine rpm's
around 900rpm's. While watching the vacuum gauge, move the distributor. Max vacuum = max power. Lowest
vacuum best economy but less power. In between vacuum reading....Happy medium, it works!

GUIDO.
 
Hello Thintz,

If you have, or you can borrow a vacuum gauge try this: loosen the distributor just enough so that you can
move it, but tight enough that won't move on it's own. Hook up your vacuum gauge, and set engine rpm's
around 900rpm's. While watching the vacuum gauge, move the distributor. Max vacuum = max power. Lowest
vacuum best economy but less power. In between vacuum reading....Happy medium, it works!

GUIDO.
 
Actually, I didn't lube the cam. Saw a video later that showed that. Makes sense. I suppose the points need to be re-gapped?

I'll need to check all these things tomorrow, weather permitting.

Thank you all for the direction.
 
The timing will get slow/retarded when the bar wears, also will start to miss because they do not open consistently.

Pretty common mistake.
 
A couple of easy things to check in the distributor...

Check for side play in the shaft bushing. If it is worn, the points will not stay set. The point gap will vary at different RPM, make it do strange things. The bushing needs to have very little wear. If worn, a rebuild distributor will be an easy fix. Or install an electronic conversion kit. They are forgiving of shaft wear.

Also check the centrifugal advance. Take the cap off, gently turn the rotor in the direction the distributor turns. It should turn a few degrees and spring back when released. If it won't move the distributor needs to come out, be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated.
 
The rotor doesn't rotate with the dust cap on. With it off it did rotate a little but there was no spring to it. The shaft has a small amount of horizontal wiggle. Gap on the points still seems good.

I lubed the cam and started it up with an in-line plug tester. Spark looks good even when revved. I'll take it into the field tomorrow. I suspect it will misbehave after running for a half hour and then I'll check the spark again.

I may soon learn how to install a rebuilt distributor.
 
(quoted from post at 23:35:00 07/04/16) A couple of easy things to check in the distributor...

Check for side play in the shaft bushing. If it is worn, the points will not stay set. The point gap will vary at different RPM, make it do strange things. The bushing needs to have very little wear. If worn, a rebuild distributor will be an easy fix. Or install an electronic conversion kit. They are forgiving of shaft wear.

Also check the centrifugal advance. Take the cap off, gently turn the rotor in the direction the distributor turns. It should turn a few degrees and spring back when released. If it won't move the distributor needs to come out, be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated.
Click to expand...
Also check the centrifugal advance. Take the cap off, gently turn the rotor in the direction the distributor turns. It should turn a few degrees and spring back when released. If it won't move the distributor needs to come out, be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated."
That is NOT the way this distributor's centrifugal advance works. Rotor is not connected to centrifugal advance.
 
Mowed 4 acres without a problem. It runs smooth! All I did was lube the cam for the points. Thanks, everyone, for the great suggestions.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Ford 7810 advancing pump timing possible?
Replies
18
Views
449
Echo575
E
H
Ford 4400 - carb rebuilt, replaced plugs, wires, and dis
Replies
9
Views
459
Fixingfarmer
Fixingfarmer
A
Roosa Master Injection Pump JD 310B Timing Question
Replies
3
Views
250
AliasRex
A
L
Ford 3000 Timing
Replies
4
Views
537
Jim.ME
J
B
Timing Jig back in production
Replies
18
Views
964
Bruce (VA)
B
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top