Repairing exhaust manifold

Old560

Member
Has anybody ever useed JB Weld to successfully repair exhaust manifold or should I try to weld it with 7018, 7014? This is on a Camry not a tractor, sorry not tractor related. Suggestions appreciated. Or pull it off abd braze It.
 
I think you need to consider replacing it. The JB Weld will just burn off and welding may not be effective. Not only will the exhaust leak cause the car to run bad the exhaust may get inside the car and gas you with carbon monoxide.
 
Here's a picture of it
a231043.jpg
 
I have used it on a IH truck manifold it held for about a year. It will work (if needed) till you get a new manifold.
 
(quoted from post at 10:33:26 07/03/16) Has anybody ever useed JB Weld to successfully repair exhaust manifold or should I try to weld it with 7018, 7014? This is on a Camry not a tractor, sorry not tractor related. Suggestions appreciated. Or pull it off abd braze It.
est to replace it but it can be welded by brazing but i the most success with stick welding cast iron with a nickel rod.
I weld in short sections and peen the weld with punch and hammer to prevent cracking as the materials shrinks different.
 
Nickel rod such as what I'm tempted to try welding it on the
vehicle this car has 340,000 miles on it I can't see buying a
manifold runs like a champ and never breaks down but still
 
Are you going to remove it or weld it in place? Of that pic was taken on the car I would weld it on the car. If you take it off you could have more problems. In that case I would weld it on the car with Nomacast rod or braze it or cast weld it with a torch, that will be cheaper than nickle and should work as good. Make sure you do short welds with lots of peening to keep cracking down. I use a small air hammer with variable power and use it lightly and have been somewhat successful. Nickle rods might work too, but will be more costly with not much better chances of success. Old manifolds like that are very difficult to repair and success rates very. Good luck.
 
that is a very easy fix for the experienced welder. i had a manifold on a case D tractor welded with no problems. i am quite sure it was cast rod that he used. it was not nickel rod.that is the trick , to use the correct rod for the correct application. and a welder that knows his stuff.
you do not braze manifolds, and i sure cant see jb weld working. and 7018 is not the rod either.
 
From the picture, my guess is that is more like burn out than cracked. You can try to weld it, but I'm betting it will just burn through, make a bigger hole.

A used manifold would be easy to get.
 
I've had no luck at all welding or brazing exhaust manifolds. I've had good results buying used ones and installing them. Make sure to get the "new" manifold planed at a machine shop so it fits perfect and won't crack in future.
 
I would grind it clean, and grind the crack out a bit. Then get some cast iron rod. Just weld a 1/4 inch or less at a time let it cool. Stan
 
Exhaust manifolds are made of cast iron. Cast does not weld easily because it is porous.
Proper welding technique include preheating, using the correct welding rod, and proper cooling.

JB Weld will most likely not be able to stand up to the heating and cooling experienced by an exhaust component.
Brazing will not hold because it gets brittle and cracks from constant heating and cooling cycles.
Silver solder might have some chance at success - at least more chance than brazing.

There is my opinion. Worth just what you paid for it!
 
Remove it and braze it. I have successfully brazed a couple cast exhaust manifolds, and both held well. But the trick is grinding in a v notch, and getting it hot prior to brazing, and use good flux coated rod. I have a diesel tractor I brazed a few years ago and it was broke clean at the base of the pipe. I ground it off clean, and brazed the pipe to the manifold, and it has been hit by more than one limb and still holding great. If you can find a good used manifold reasonably priced, that would probalby be a better option, but I always enjoy a challenge, especially when it saves a few bucks and nothing to lose by trying. In your case, you will likely know before you reinstall if it works. Trick is to preheat and get it clean and get good flow into the crack. Does not appear to be any stress, so if you can flow it in well, it should work.
 
(quoted from post at 11:33:26 07/03/16) Has anybody ever useed JB Weld to successfully repair exhaust manifold or should I try to weld it with 7018, 7014? This is on a Camry not a tractor, sorry not tractor related. Suggestions appreciated. Or pull it off abd braze It.

Take it off and clean the area with wire brush, chisel, etc. but don't use abrasives (grinding wheel, flap wheel, etc.) Preheat the part and weld/peen a bit at a time, keep the preheat going. When finished do the preheat again,peen weld and surrounding material, then cover the entire manifold with dry sand (immediately) give it several days to 'chill-out' and you'll have a good repair. Get a box or pan big enough to hold the manifold and the sand ready ahead of time! I've fixed cracked heads like this using an arc welder and high nickel rod. Preheating was done with an insulated cover equipped with cal-rod elements over the the head (the preheat and cool-down MUST be uniform! A rosebud can be used but remember - the piece must be uniformly heated and cooled which is why sand is so good for the cool-down). 8)
 

I would avoid welding, A Braze should be pretty easy there...

What I suggest as a Great alternative is a product called "ThermoSteel".

It is for Metal Repair and that includes Exhaust Manifolds.. It is kind of like the consistency of Valve Grinding Compound then applied and sets in just a few hours and is HARDER than Flint when Cured..!!

You can get it at "AutoZone" and is not expensive.

ThermoSteel
Made by "CarGo Chemical Corp.
1304 FM 3083 Conoe, Tx. 77303
409-539-1555
Made in USA..

GREAT product and works very well to seal 2-Cylinder JD exhaust gasket leaks also...it Stays in place like it is an original piece of Cast Iron..!!

Check it out..

Ron..
 
Looks to me that it is a possible "hot spot" on the manifold.
If so the metal around it is crystallized and welding would be problematic.
I would use a product such as papa recommended.
The chemistry these days is impressive.
 
Is it causing a problem? Doesn't look to have any soot around it as if it were leaking, unless you cleaned it some how. At face value, I'd leave it alone if not leaking if it were mine.
 
That easy fix depends on what condition that manifold is in. Dad use to weld manifolds. Some he wouldn't touch because they were burnt so thin that welding wouldn't last and I saw several that when he cleaned them up to weld they had so many cracks in them they weren't worth welding.
 
If your leaving it on the car to repair, no opinion. If removing it, I would braze it. I repaired an 8n manifold (had 0 dollars) on my first tractor that was cracked and pulled away 1/8 inch on both ends. Brazed it up and filed it flat and ran it for 10 years until it completely burned out.
 

You know, I was very surprised that "ThermoSteel" is Water Based...!!!

Really is impervious to any heat you will find on an Exhaust Manifold..!!
 

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