fussing with 3020 still..

So Im still fussing with the 3020 gas. I have couple more questions:
1) As i said before I put a new see through inline gas filter..my understanding is the pump pulls that fuel through the filter from tank and to the carb. So would it indicate i have a pump seal prob. if when I went out the next day instead of the normal 1/4 gas in filter its almost completely full??

2) also opened up the distributor again after putting new points etc. in.. turns out the weights have ran wide and grooved out the distributor alum. inside housing..I loobed everything and weights appear to be working ok now but does the groove effect performance of distributor.. im assuming I need to get a new distributor??
thanks again..

Filter, if on the suction side, should be full of gas after running for awhile, I would think.


I think you need new springs for the weights for the distributor. Maybe that is why it is so hard starting. Weights out advances timing! Springs bring the weights back and puts timing correct for starting.

The fuel level in the filter is of little to no concern. What you are seeing is air trapped in the filter housing. The air volume will vary with temperature changes, or vibration "burping" it out, the angle of the filter, etc. As long as there are no leaks or bubbles being drawn in while it's running, everything should be good there.

Since there is a fuel pump, the best way to test it is to disconnect the line from the carb, start it up and catch the results in a clean glass. The pump should shoot a full, pulsing stream each time the pump cycles. The pump should make about 3 to 5 PSI pressure. Look at what came through into the glass. If it's dirty, rust flakes, water, then that is what is also in the carb!

Also visually inspect the pump itself for fuel leaking around the diaphragm or vent holes, and check the lines for leaks, signs of rot, abrasion or cracking.

As for the distributor, the weights should not be rubbing the housing! Something is worn or assembled wrong. The worn groove "probably" won't hurt anything, but if it's recent damage, the ground up metal is floating around inside the distributor, not going to be good for point life, and can short out the high voltage under the cap.

The old distributors were known for the shaft bushing to wear, causing the point gap to vary, causing poor performance and stalling. The bushing needs to have very little side to side play, no more than .010". If that bushing is worn, a new/rebuilt distributor would be the easiest solution, especially since it has other issues.

If the bushing is good, I would still disassemble the distributor, check the weights and springs, see why they are over extending, clean everything up.

And... Worn distributor bushings are not a major concern for an electronic conversion kit. They are very forgiving of wear, but the weights do need to work properly.

Little more on that pump. Steve is correct about seeing the stream and pump pulse. But like an old chevrolet mechanical fuel pump with the diaphragm. When taking loose from the carb and spin the motor over it would still pump fuel. But soon as you would put your thumb over the end of the line and turn over motor you got no fuel meaning the diaphragm in pump was bad. If the diaphragm in the pump was good the fuel would have sprayed out from around your thumb you wouldn't be able to hold it back. Just Fyi