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Woodchuck Trap Advice

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Glenn F.

Member
What trap do you recommend for a woodchuck? I guess I'm leaning towards a kill trap for all the damage he's done under my shop floor. What size/type kill trap is best?

Thanks,
Glenn F.
 
I use the Conibear size that is about an 8 inch square, pretty effective but I recommend staking the chain down in case it doesn't kill it immediately. Rarely I have had a trap get several feet away from where it was 'set'.
 
I plan on going trap shopping this evening. Do you bait live traps, or simply just place it over their hole? This guy has two holes going under my shop. Do I need two traps?

Thank you,
Glenn F.
 
That would be a 220 connibear. As for staking, yup the conni does usually kill the critter...the staking if the conni is to keep other critters from dragging the dead animal and trap away.
 
I had one started a hole and read an old article about stopping critters from digging basically you dump old glass nails wire etc down the hole they don't want to dig through that and move on.
 
Then things can be hard to trap depending on how things are. You pretty much need to close off one hole and hope he does not have another one then set the trap in the hole in such a way that he can see out the other end of it. Only time I have any luck with trapping one was when I set a live trap in front of my cabbage with the side where it was hard to see out of them and it walked right in the trap going after the cabbage
 
Glenn F,
When you figure it out, post results.

I put down paver bricks at one place. I got tired of Alvin digging under the brick and causing bricks to settle. So I found good use of old rusty galvanized tin. I put it under the brick, covered with sand. Now Alvin and the rest of the chipmunks can tunnel underneath and bricks don't settle.

Please let me know what works, they are smart.

geo
 
Do you know anyone who traps? If you are going to use leg hold traps my advice would be to put so many around each hole they have to step into one. Make sure they are secured well or the darn thing will drag the trap off. If you go with a conibear type, I would suggest the 220 size.
 
Donald Lehman- In my state, the traps have to be at least 10 feet apart. What you describe is called 'Gang Setting' and in my state that is illegal. FWIW, I wouldn't want to see someone get in trouble.
 

"We get 'em to enter live traps using carrots."

Yup. Got about 5-6 of them that way last summer and one this past weekend. There is a old dirt floored shed type building on the farm that has been undermined with tunnels for at least 30 years and every summer a new batch of chucks move in. Would love to be able to refill those tunnels somehow
 
I loke to use a few melon chunks. Throw them on the ground and set live trap over them. Critter will surely trip the trap trying to get at bait under the trap.
 
I have an old woodchuck trap from FIL. It's like two legholds mounted back to back about 8 inches apart. It fits down into the burrow and gets them coming out or going in. The trip rod is in the center so they crawl in and reach to move it aside. Always gets the head and one shoulder. Usually kills but I have had two that survived. No idea where they came from and I've only seen one other at a tractor show in Pa. The only marking says ABC Mfg., Cleveland, Oh. I'll post pictures tomorrow.
 
A couple of conibear 220 traps took care of my problem. I got mine at Gander Mtn. The guy showed me how to set them and how they operate. If I see a hole, I set the trap and will normally have one in a day or two.
 
From your description it sounds like you have a conibear trap. Its what I mentioned and a few others also. Its very effective. I have also notched a 5 gallon bucket and set the trap in the opening with a ear of corn inside for coons. I also steak the trap down in case they do survive.
 
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