Jasondeere
New User
My farmall m. After buying old tractor that barely ran, I replaced plugs, condenser coil points, and it finally ran. After one week back to barely running and acting like its running on bad gas. Help
- Thread starter Jasondeere
- Start date
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Clean the sediment bowl, the fuel inlet filter in the carburetor, and service the oil bath air-cleaner.
Welcome, Jasondeere.
It's likely something with the air/fuel ratio. Pull the plugs and look them over. If one is carboned more than the others, it's a cylinder problem. A compression test may give some clues. If all are carboned up, either you are running way rich and the carb needs adjustment (check the float and float needle), and as mentioned above, the air cleaner oil bath needs to be 'refreshed'.
It could also be that it's pulling oil from the intake valve stems. These engines did not come with oil seals on the valve stems, and with 60 or so years of use, they can pass a considerable amount of oil into the cylinders.
It's likely something with the air/fuel ratio. Pull the plugs and look them over. If one is carboned more than the others, it's a cylinder problem. A compression test may give some clues. If all are carboned up, either you are running way rich and the carb needs adjustment (check the float and float needle), and as mentioned above, the air cleaner oil bath needs to be 'refreshed'.
It could also be that it's pulling oil from the intake valve stems. These engines did not come with oil seals on the valve stems, and with 60 or so years of use, they can pass a considerable amount of oil into the cylinders.
Jasondeere
New User
I cleaned the bowl and put in fresh gas. The weekest link in the fuel line could be the one going into the carb, I guess I . I'm new to working on tractors so its hard for me to know if its starving for gas. Or electrical
Jasondeere
New User
Thanks, you guys I application any tips you might have. I don't understand why it would run good after going through everything, then within one week start to miss run a little rough then barely run. I will go through through the fuel line again, but it seams like its flooding almost because there is gas running out the drip in carb, when I crank it over and it doesn't start. When it runs no gas overflow.
I didn't see anywhere that you said you
replaced the wires, so I'll offer a bit more
to look for. If it has the aluminum contacts
in the distributor cap, they seem to corrode
much more than the old brass contact ones. I
have found quite a few times when we have
bought something that had set for a while,
if you pull the plug wires and coil wire out
of the cap, they will be corroded under one
or more of the wires in the cap. Maybe you
checked it, maybe you didn't, just an idea.
Ross
replaced the wires, so I'll offer a bit more
to look for. If it has the aluminum contacts
in the distributor cap, they seem to corrode
much more than the old brass contact ones. I
have found quite a few times when we have
bought something that had set for a while,
if you pull the plug wires and coil wire out
of the cap, they will be corroded under one
or more of the wires in the cap. Maybe you
checked it, maybe you didn't, just an idea.
Ross
Jasondeere
New User
I did replace the wires, with the solid whires and the cap looked new. I will inspect the cap more closely to be sure. Thank you, I am thank full for any tips
Jasondeere
New User
I will check the tank as well. Thank you
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
I own a Farmall M that sat for many years without being started up and ran. I also own a Farmall H that just sat for many years before I bought it. I made both of them run, but both did very similar things as what you describe. Just when I thought it was good to go, and my work was done, they would stumble, sputter, and die. Eventually, I won the battle. Both of those tractors are ready and eager to go whenever I want them to work. I used the H just a couple of days ago, and the M has a small task scheduled for it today. Don't give up.
Jason, Check the choke plate - I had a Super A that ran erratically, sometimes flooded. I found the choke plate screws had come out and the plate was just floating in the carb. When it got a mind to, it would restrict the air flow and flood the engine. Took a bit of head scratching and looking to find that one. Only found one of the screws - the engine must have eaten the other, but it isn't like it would hurt that particular engine any.
Jasondeere
New User
Thanks you guys I will read through and try all your suggestions. And report back after some work. And thanks for the encouragement because I had thought about giving up but I'm just to stubborn.
Paul Janke
Member
For you guys who have posted possible solutions, is it possible he is running it on 12 volts when it is a 6 volt system? Wouldn't that burn up the points within a week of use? I'm just grasping at straws.
flying belgian
Well-known Member
If it acts like bad gas are you sure it is not bad gas? If it quacks like a duck-----
No, it would burn up the coil. Points don't care about 6 or 12 volt they are only a switch to open and close a circuit.
I don't have the number but they do make a coil that will have printed on the body "12V no external resistor required".
For the OP. Trouble shoot before you start buying parts. You may fix it by throwing parts at it but most often will spend a lot more money than you have to.
Find an old plug. Gap it about 1/4 inch. Then run the tractor. As soon as it dies pull a plug wire and put the old pug in it and crank the engine over. No spark means and ignition problem. Good bright blue spark means it's most likely a fuel problem. As soon as you are done checking spark: Take container to catch gas in and disconnect the fuel line at the carb or if the carb has a drain plug on the bottom of the bowl remove the plug. Watch gas flow for about one minute. Should be a steady stream about the size of the fuel line. If from the line and flow is good then it's a carb problem. If from the bowl the system is good through the needle and seat but the problem is still in the carb itself.
A little advice here. When asking questions about these old tractors you should state 6 or 12 volt as many have been converted to 12 volt. It's helps when others are trying to help you figure out a problem.
Welcome to the board.
Rick
Jasondeere
New User
Thanks, it had a 12 volt battery in it when I bought it, I assumed it was converted to 12 volts but not sure. What all is changed when converting from 6 to 12 volt systems
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