OT-Stuck Engine

Not a tractor, but have an old IHC 6 cyl. truck engine that is stuck. Plugs have been removed and atf added. I've been told there is a large nut on the end of the crankshaft. I've been advised to put a socket on this and work to loosen the stuck pistons. Question: does it matter if I try to work it back and forth? Or, will I unscrew the nut and be in worse shape? If so, which way do I try to turn the crankshaft?
 
How stuck is stuck? I had good luck with finding a cylinder that was mid stroke and putting a spark plug in that I adapted to put a grease gun on and pump away. You have to make sure the valves are closed on that cylinder.
 
Can you mount the Starter to it ? Just tapping the starter rapidly will break some of them loose. Caution on the grease gun trick. It puts out tremendous pressure , if the engine is locked up solid , you can bend a rod . You can turn the crank nut either way , if it loosens , no harm done, just work the other way . Do you have access to a bore scope ? Pull the plugs and look into each cyl. If heavily rusted , best off to just pull the head ...
 
mY HUMBLE EXPERIENCE IS AFTER ATF try is some way while pressure is in the big nut hold pressure and pound on breaker bar hammer to vibrate the shaft. This has worker for me couple times in past. One compound which guarantees to free stuck engines will only honoer warranty IF the crank is vibrated in some way. My 2 cents worth and I owe you a penny back!!
 
(quoted from post at 12:03:42 05/17/16) Not a tractor, but have an old IHC 6 cyl. truck engine that is stuck. Plugs have been removed and atf added. I've been told there is a large nut on the end of the crankshaft. I've been advised to put a socket on this and work to loosen the stuck pistons. Question: does it matter if I try to work it back and forth? Or, will I unscrew the nut and be in worse shape? If so, which way do I try to turn the crankshaft?

Yes, the nut will unscrew if you go the wrong way. There might also be a "keeper" behind that nut, with tabs folded over the nut to keep the nut from unscrewing all by itself. You will need to use a hammer and chisel to UNfold those tabs before you can put a wrench on the nut.

Another trick that works sometimes is to raise the front of the truck, put the wrench on the nut, place a jackstand under the wrench, and then lower the truck so the weight is supported on that wrench. Leave it that way until tomorrow, or the next day. Might just get lucky.
 
Don't know how big the nut is, but loosening it is not the problem, twisting the end of the crank stud off is the real danger! Doesn't matter which way you turn it, just don't get crazy with a cheater bar! "Most" crank bolts are right hand thread, but better look at the threads, don't take my word for it.

If you can put in a good battery and start bumping the starter is a better method. If there is no starter, find a way to pry on the flywheel if possible.

A lot will depend on why it's stuck. If just years of condensation, it may turn loose. But if it was parked with a blown head gasket, been in a flood, rained in, and cylinders sat with liquid water in them, it will have to come apart.
 
Is the engine in a truck, on a engine stand, Is the Trans still hooked up. Best way is have it in high gear, jack rear tire off the ground and move it back and forth. If just engine. Work with output shaft.
 
When the plug is out can you see the walls if they are rusty it will not break loose. Using that nut like other post says danger of twisting it off then big trouble. Why not just pull the head then you will know much more what you are working with not hat hard to do. You will end up doing that anyhow to work on the valves so just pull the head.
 
If it has a clutch pan take it off and use a big screw driver on the flywheel, don't use a socket on the front bolt!!
 
On any that had starters one them I use the start to try to free them up. A starter will do little if any harm ot it since it was made to turn it over any how. Me I fill the cylinder wi ATF and in this case pour ATF into the carb till you can not put more in then let it sit a week or so. Be sure to put the plugs back in so as to keep dirt etc out. The set a good 12 volt batter in it pull the plugs out and use short fast taps on the starter to see if it will free up
 
Thanks to all for the ideas.
Here are answers to some of your questions:
1) the engine is IN the truck (It is a 1963 IHC Loadstar 1600.)
2) it was "running when parked". Latest inspection sticker is 1989. Previous owner deceased. PO's son (age 60?) said it was run a year or two on the farm after last inspection. It has been in a farm shed and has little or no serious body or frame rust. I didn't inspect the shed carefully as I was told 18 rattlesnakes were killed there about three years ago. I WAS VERY careful hooking up, inspecting under seat before climbing in, looking underneath hood and truck--I'm scared to death of snakes!
3) it has a starter on it and I have a new battery for it.
4) the spark plugs are in it.
5) how stuck is stuck? I ask you: how pregnant is pregnant? 😄
Thanks again, Kelly
 
I see some good advice and some bad advice here.

Best advice is to leave the nut on the end of the crank alone. You really do NOT want to open that can of worms!!!

Probably the most sound advice is to pull the head to see exactly what you are up against. Some gentle persuasion might not hurt, but be advised that if you force it, the potential problems are broken rings, broken pistons, bent rods, and even crankshaft damage.

When an engine is stuck, there is usually a good reason for it. Like rust in the cylinders, fluid in the cylinders, mouse nests in the flywheel, etc. Best to find out the reason it is stuck before doing more expen$ive damage.

Whatever you do, best not to try to force it to turn. It can only result in compounding the problems.
 
I had a tractor that was stuck, soaked it for a couple years tried everything, wouldn't loosen up. Took it apart couple taps with a block of wood on the pistons and they came right out. Just the rings were rusted to the cylinders. However the rings were rusted in the pistons also, so even if it had come loose it probably would have had to come apart. Like your truck it was stored inside just stuck from sitting.
 

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