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OT replacement windows

M

merlynr

Member
I have some replacement windows to install and the instructions say not to use expanding foam type insulation. These are double hung vinyl. Is it ok to use the low expanding foam? I'm going to check with manufacturer tomorrow but just wondering what others have done.
 
We had the professionals install the
replacement windows in our house. They used
batting insulation and pushed it in with
putty knives. Now when the wind blows it
whistles and howls between the trim and
window. When we called them about it they
were very good and showed up in a timely
manner. To fix it they used clear silicone
caulk and caulked the trim total he wall and
window. However they only did the windows we
mentioned and when the wind switches
direction now the other windows howl.

When I talked to a carpenter friend of
mine he said that's how we do it because we
don't have time to wait for it to quit
expanding before we put it back together.

If it was me, I would use the low
expanding foam but not put the trim back on
for a day or two in order to give the foam a
place to expand to. That way it has
somewhere to go and not compress the window
to the point where it doesn't function
properly.
 
Is there any holes in the outer parameter of the window frame. If so I imagine they worry about getting the foam into the tract of the window preventing it from opening and closing.
 

Replacement windows are a joke. When it was time to replace the windows in this house, I found a guy who was willing to do it right. Removed the old windows, frames and all, right back to the wall studs, and then installed Anderson brand new construction windows. He stuffed batting insulation into ALL the gaps. Our house is now WARM and QUIET. Total cost was LESS than what the local siding, gutters, and windows company quoted to install insert, replacement windows.
 
I have installed them and used the low expanding foam. Even then you want to watch and not over fill the voids. Even the low expanding foam will push the sides of the windows together and make the window slide hard. Stuffing bat insulation and then caulking is the only sure way to not spring the windows.
 
The expanding foam is a gooey mess and would probably melt into the finish of any vinyl it contacted, so care would be needed with places that show. The one or two times I used it I got it everywhere but where I needed it.
 
Is there a large gap to fill? Maybe there should be wood filler strips put in first.

We had all new double hung windows installed in our house three years ago and they fit tight enough that the installers just put a bead of silicone around them.
 
See what the manufacturer recommends, especially if they recommend a specific product. Even the low expanding foam could push in the window frames enough that the window will be harder to move and too much expansion could prevent the window from pulling out of the frame for cleaning. To be safe, I would stay with caulk and fiberglass insulation.
 
(quoted from post at 09:02:42 05/15/16) I have some replacement windows to install and the instructions say not to use expanding foam type insulation. These are double hung vinyl. Is it ok to use the low expanding foam? I'm going to check with manufacturer tomorrow but just wondering what others have done.
Click to expand...

Just hang tight a few days until the guy from the foreign call center that claims there is a problem with your windows that he can fix over the phone calls again and ask him.
Should be good for a laugh when you ask him where to spray the foam insulation.
 
I have a small gap on the sides with none at the bottom and bigger gap at the top. the outside of this one is finished but inside is not. I have to trim the drywall back to the frame(studs) so I can complete the inside. I'll probably stuff insulation in the voids.
35972.jpg
 
As it happens I just replaced a couple of French doors. We used the great stuff window and door spray foam. I have to say, that stuff is like a disease you have to be very careful or it will be everywhere. I thing that it and anti-seize are like a virus and if you want to see how a virus spreads just use either one.
On the other side it is great at what it does and I found that blue painters tape will halt its expansion. No not by magic buy sheer adhesion alone. See I had a couple of decent sized gaps between the frame and the rough opening and I was working over a finished hardwood floor. So what I did was fill the gap and before the foam started oozing out I covered the gap with blue painters tape. It did bow out the tape but it didn't pull it from the wall and door frame. Also, after it was mostly set I went along the bulge in the tape and pressed it the other way and it stayed concave. Where I didn't press it back in there is a bit of a hump but I can press it down and I don't think it will have any adverse affect on the trim once I put it in place.
 
There is a soft low expanding foam, It doesn't get hard at all. I am sure your local lumber yard has it. It is easily dug out with your finger. I am a trim carpenter and have to clean the overspray at every window, but its pretty easy to do. I see it on every new house here in Texas.
 
I have used both fiberglass and foam on windows. I will never again waste my time with fiberglass. Be sure to use the window and door foam.
If your crack is large fill it with two passes. I have never had a window problem with low expansion foam or an air leak. The wind blows hard
around here in the winter and fiberglass still lets the air through.
 

Thanks guys. I looked on the window co. web site and they state that window and sash foam is ok to use. It's the low expansion formula.
 
I installed 11 replacement windows in our home. Used low expansion foam in all. Just wait about 24 hrs
after foaming to put trim in place. Gives foam a place to move to with causing window problems. Trim
over expanded foam with sharp knife or electric knife (used for meat carving) works too. Sealed our 150 year
old house so no more drafty windows.
 
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