8n runs 45 min quits

My 8N runs 30-45 min then acts like it has run out of gas. The cap is ventedm,plenty of gas, good battery. Next morning it starts and does same thing. Gas runs freely out of carb plug with no apparent fuel blocks??? HELP!!!!!!!!!
 
I had a welder with continental f162? Engine. When warm would not start at all. Cool cranked(by hand) easily, coil
broke down when hot. Good luck.
 
If you have the common type of aftermarket replacement ignition switch, change it.

Alternatively, short it out with a jumper wire.

Difficult to diagnose and explain but common issue.

Dean
 
Of course you need to see whether you have spark after it dies. If you don't have spark, check the condenser or coil. either one can fail after they get hot and take some time to cool down. Usually will run five to fifteen minutes before failing but 45 minutes is not out of reason. Until you check spark you don't know if it's spark or fuel.
 
Helps us help you if you tell us if it is a front mount distributor or side mount and if 6 or 12 volts. If front mount good chance the coil is going bad since they heat up and in 30-45-60 minutes if the time frame that they start to loose spark. The mount it does that check your spark and make sure you have a good blue/white that jumps a 1/4 inch gap at all 4 plugs
 
try........8N's came with 2-different kinda ignition systems. 4-nipple front mount and 5-nipple side mount. The 4-nipple front mount coil is temperature sensitive. And will run fer 30-45 mins just as you complain and QUITS 'cuz it overheats. Once it cools off, guess what? It'll run again until it overheats. Since I'm an electronic engr, I know how to cool things of with a finned heat sink. Got one off'n old TV set about 4-inches square and plastic tie-wrapped it to the HOT ignition coil. Worked like a charm. Me? I'd make a wind blocker outta cardboard to keep the HOT radiator wind off'n yer melty coil, might work. (at least its cheep) It is good you checked fer ventilated gas cap 'cuz mud-daubers like to clog the domed vent at the front of the gastank where you kent gitt to itt and gravity doesn't like a vacuum.........HTH, the amazed Dell
 
Take the inline gas filter off,throw it as far as you can hurl it and splice the gas line back together.
 
Had one do the same thing, it was the coil. This was on a stock 6 volt set up.

If the tractor has been converted to 12 volt make sure it's not running 12 volts to a 6 volt coil, should have a resistor in place.
 
(quoted from post at 09:02:34 05/11/16) Take the inline gas filter off,throw it as far as you can hurl it and splice the gas line back together.

If you have a clogged filter then you have avoided a clogged carburetor . Filters are great if you are smart enough to use them to your advantage . Eliminating filtering is a poor choice .

I have installed an inline glass filter from Mr gasket just above the carb . I used the one that has threaded ends so I did not need any rubber fuel line . I can visually see if the fuel is flowing .

I also converted to a round metal coil and the system is virtually problem free .
 
Thanx I will do that....I always thought the on-off switch either worked or it did not. I am just using a single pole single throw Radio Shack switch??
 
They should just have a sediment bowl. If the old one leaks,then it needs a new one. It's vapor locking when it gets hot with that inline filter on it.
 
Lemme guess, you have a part rubber fuel line? What happens when that gets hot or ends up touching the exhaust manifold and catches on fire? The N's already have 3
filters. One in the tank, sediment bowl screen, and carburetor elbow where the fuel line enters. If ya don't have those parts, they work better then an inline fuel
filter.
 
If you are not using the common aftermarket key switch sold for vintage Ford tractors, look elsewhere for your problem.

Dean
 
While some in line filters work okay many do not due to the fact they are made for a system wit ha fuel pump. I have had many calls where a guy has a tractor tht will not run long if at all and had an in line filter on them. I removed them made sure the sediment bowl had the screen in it like ti should and that tractor has then run just fine ever since
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top