getting non-runner to run

Tried to get onto classic truck forum, but failed, so please help:
Bought a 1963 IHC truck today that hasn't run in nearly 15 years. It is an old farm truck--a grain truck. I need it to get my oats from the combine to the storage shed. Owner's dad had it, then retired, then died, and the truck has sat in a shed since. Son (about 60 years old) is a BTO with semi etc. This old truck is only a few miles away via country road, so I'm hoping to get it to run and drive it to my home.
Good news, they removed the battery when it was parked. I'm thinking of putting in a fresh battery, removing the air cleaner and pouring a bit of gas into the carb and hoping for the best. Other ideas????? Thahks

If there was gas in the tank and it sat for 15 year, everything between the tank and carb is gummed up. It won't have any brakes either, best to pull it home and work on it.

Before I did much to it I would at the very least pour some ATF into the carb or even betters pour some into each plug hole and give ti 24 hours that way your less likely to break rings and also frees up the rings if they are stuck to the pistons. Also a very good chance you will at the very least need to clean up the points since they most likely are badly corroded

I was going to say have it towed or on a roll back. Go over everything from stem to stern. As the other post you have no fuel or brake systems. ATF in the spark plug holes. An even better thing is to borrow an oil pressureize tank and prelube the engine with maybe 20 lbs. of oil pressure. All fluids and oils. Grease everything. Pack bearings. Sounds like a lot but it will turn back the hands of time on a lot of possible headaches! Been there done that. Going to take a couple of days but......just do it. If this is a really good looking truck with very little damage , treat it well before hand. Also look for tire dry rot on something that old.

The gas in the tank will have turned into a sticky goo. Fuel lines might not be too bad. Brakes will simply be in need of a full hydraulic overhaul - cylinders, master cylinder, and probably brake lines.
Personally, I would not be too worried about the pistons and rings. They were most likely coated with oil from the last time it was run, so they should free up in no time. Oil seals might be another story. You might want to try turning the crankshaft with a socket and breaker bar before attempting to start it.
Also, be aware of things like mouse nests in the air cleaner housing, chewed wires under the dash, and that sort of thing. Fortunately, most of the wiring in a truck of that vintage is fairly simple and easy to access and repair.
Cooling system is another potential problem spot. If it was parked with antifreeze in the system, most likely everything is OK. If it was only water, could be cracks in the block or heads.

A lot of things to check out. Good luck with it.

I'm gonna second the brakes ....The mc & wc's will be rusted solid and the cups & seals ruined . Better tow it with a chain thru a pipe, or have it towed ....

I thought you were talking about someone running for office lol.....

Hi Some old farm trucks were not in great shape mechanically when last used, so issues could be plenty from motor brake and electrics like others
said with adding sitting to. Tires blowing could be another issue when you start using it.

To be honest the worst/ best option depending on how you think, is drag it home cut the cab off and make a trailer with it to tow with a tractor.
That gets rid of most of your issues except tires in one go, if you are not doing long hauls like you say.

I was looking for an old gravel truck for the farm. in the end I found a chassis and box to build a trailer. All i have to worry about is tires.
The 100 hp fwa tractor will pull it in worse conditions than the truck could drive it's self with in reason. I'm not messing with a 40 year old
plus gas motor or any other issues with the truck being unreliable total junk, like cheap trucks are round here for less than $4000.

I Paid $1000 for the 13ft gravel box and tandem axle frame, I brought used heavy 8" box 13 ft long for $200 to build the hitch when I cut the frame off, in
front of the head hoist. I could of used the frame rails and made the hitch but wanted something that looked real nice, as I want to be able use
this trailer on the highway a bit to. I figure I will have a nice looking useful trailer with working lights,and good tires for $1800 and a bit of
time. Last year that trailer would sell in auction for $4000, and I already have a shop customer wants to hire or buy it, so I might build another
one if I can get another similar deal.
Regards Robert

Put a socket and a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley and try to turn the engine over. If you can roll it over at all, you're on your way.

The "proper" way to do it is to change the oil, do a full ignition tuneup, rebuild the carburetor, and go over the wiring, before you even think about putting a battery in it... or, you can just check the oil, squirt some gas in the carb, hit the key, and see what happens.

Master of ceremonies and water closets?? Who knows.

Thanks to all. Think I'm gonna check brake and
clutch cylinders for fluid level, put in a battery, file
points, maybe disconnect fuel line at carb, crank er
over to see if it's pumping gas, then reconnect and
try to fire her up. (Oats is nearly ready for harvest.)
Kelly

I'd STRONGLY advise draining the gas tank and either clean it out good or replace it.
My F-350 had been sitting for over 10 years. When I first got it started it ran like a Swiss watch. The next time it sounded like a 2 cylinder John Deere! All that varnish and crap from the gas tank had gotten into the engine and half the valves were stuck. I ended up replacing the tank. I know of other cases where the valves got stuck so tight it bent the push rods!
Take a little extra time now and avoid some headaches later.

Your are wanting to use it to haul THIS YEAR'S crop?

2-3 years ago SouNdguy bent two valves on gas that had sat for just six months.

i doubt you will haul this years crop with a truck thats been sitting that long. as mentioned the brake system will need to be rebuilt completely, the rubber parts deteriorate with time and sitting,the last thing you need is brake failure with a full load! as do seals, which will start leaking when the truck starts moving around, should drain and change all the fluids most of which will have water contamination, failing to do this will just be more expensive to repair later, the engine oil and filter should be changed before you even try to start it, and before you put the gas to it,prepare for the fuel pump to either be bad or go bad soon after you get it running, it has rubber in it too. you need to make sure the engine isnt locked up and no valves are stuck,get a socket and breaker bar and rotate the engine by hand several revolutions using the big nut on the end of the crankshaft , carb will probably need a kit, but it may be ok to start, ideally the new oil should be circulated thru the engine before trying to start with a tool made for this job to prevent dry starting, and to reduce the chance of spinning a bearing which will mean game over right quick, when it does start. prepare to do a full tune up on the old rig, i imagine the rats and squirrels ect have had their fun in there, there is a lot to bringing any vehicle back to life after its sat 16 years, but done properly you will probably have a good truck when your done and it will last for quite a while if taken care of, those were good old trucks