Motor Oil

john in la · Apr 9, 2016

Lets talk motor oil.

I have always been a conventional oil person.
Not brand loyal. What ever is the cheapest I buy.
Do not believe in 3000 mile oil changes but do try to stick by manufactures recommendations that usually means 5000 to 7500 mile oil changes.
Have never had a oil related breakdown.

But I am thinking about using a synthetic oil in my new truck.
Not to extend the oil change length; but rather because these new engines are built to tighter tolerances and newer technology like MDS.

The manufacture recommends brand specific conventional oil.
But I read that as synthetic is not mandatory and these are the brands we are partnered with.
I will still use the onboard oil change monitor to tell when to change the oil.

Mobil recommends;
Mobil Super Synthetic, SAE 5W-20
for my truck.

1) So talk me into or out of using synthetic oil.

2) What is the difference in Mobil Super Synthetic, SAE 5W-20 and Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-20 other than a difference in price of $2 a quart. Both seem to be a synthetic oil.

rustyfarmall · Apr 9, 2016

If it is a NEW truck, stick with the manufacturers recommendation until it is out of warranty.

Gary Mitchell · Apr 9, 2016

I have a 2002 F-150, 5.4. I used Ford shop and products in it until the warranty expired. The truck then got Mobil 1, 5 W 20 that was changed every 8 or 10 thousand miles. I have over 270,000 miles on it, some hard miles, and have never had an issue with oil or oil use, just a couple of blown plugs. gm

John M · Apr 9, 2016

What truck, and what year? 2011 or newer GMC or CHevrolet? You have to use a Dexos rated oil to keep your warranty.

john in la · Apr 9, 2016

2015 Ram 1500
5.7 Hemi

Engine Oil Selection
For best performance and maximum protection under all
types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only
recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet
the requirements of FCA US Material Standard MS-6395.

Engine Oil Viscosity ? 5.7L Engine (1500/2500/3500
Models)
MOPAR SAE 5W-20 engine oil or equivalent Pennzoil?
or Shell Helix? is recommended for all operating temperatures.
This engine oil improves low temperature
starting and vehicle fuel economy.

For 2500/3500 trucks with a 5.7L engine operating
under a gross combined weight rating of 14,000 lbs (6
350 kg) or greater, SAE 5W-30 engine oil is recommended
for all operating temperatures.

Synthetic Engine Oils
You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended
oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended
maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes
are followed.

Mobil Super Synthetic, SAE 5W-20 meets the FCA US Material Standard MS-6395

So I'm trying to decide between conventional and Mobil Super Synthetic

JerryS · Apr 9, 2016

Might not be relevant, but maybe you should have mentioned that you live in an area where the temperature rarely gets below 32 degrees.

M-MAN · Apr 9, 2016

Use whichever type oil you want to but if you're planning on using that monitor for your oil changes you won't be happy in a few years. Dodge and GM both have a heavy engine failure rate doing that. My daughters Equinox was using a quart of oil every thousand miles at 70,000 miles. Bought new and serviced at the GM dealer when the monitor said to. By the time GM decided the engine was using too much oil and they would have to rebuild it it was a quart low at 800 miles. GM now advises not to use that monitor. My Ford dealer tells customers to use mileage (3 to 5k depending on conditions) not the monitor.

RandyB(MI) · Apr 9, 2016

Like Jerry said,below, the manual is the same manual that an owner in North Dakota would get. If it's recommended for them at -30 in winter then that's where the "5W" comes in. You really think you need that? Manuals used to give different weights for different temp zones , as it should , bean counters have a problem with that, one size fits all is more profitable. Do what you want but I would use Mobile 1 10W 30 or Amsoil equivelant for your temp area. In LA you don't need 5 W in anything. 10 W means it performs like 10 weight in winter, I would call "winter" anything below 32 degrees . 10 W 30 in synthetic is thin enough for your new min. clearance truck engine in your location. Some warrantees are requiring proof or you have them change it ...do what ya have to do then.

John M · Apr 9, 2016

In that engine, Id use synthetic. Buddy had a 5.7 a few years ago, not sure if they are the same, but some little drain hole got clogged and ruined his engine. Not sure of the details, but he had one guy at the dealership tell him if he had use synthetic it may still be running. Said conventional dino even changed at 5000 was leaving too may deposits behind.

Mike M · Apr 9, 2016

I tried it in my mower and a Rav 4 both started blowing smoke at start up. Went back to reg. oil and they quit that. I don't think it is for an older engine. Factory filled units maybe ? I would not switch since you have not had any issues.

ed will · Apr 9, 2016

Hi , I have a 2 cyl diesel Kubota in my girette (orchard manlift) that I always used 30 wt diesel engine oil in. I changed oil and filter and put in Mobil 15/40. It is burning oil like hhhl now. Should I go back to 30wt? Ed will oliver bc

wvfarmboy · Apr 9, 2016

why would any one pay 40k for a new truck and use th e cheepest oil out there??

notjustair · Apr 9, 2016

The 2000 Chevy 3/4 ton has 198,000 miles on it and doesn't use or leak a drop. I've run a bio synthetic since new. I do it when it tells me to, but it is tripped by miles. It has pulled some hard miles in its life. The new pickup requires 0w20 weight synthetic and I change it around every 5000 miles. Everything else around here gets diesel oil including old tractors that aren't diesel and old cars.

I hadn't even heard of 0w20 weight but they said that because of those tight tolerances.

john in la · Apr 9, 2016

"why would any one pay 40k for a new truck"

Yes I often wondered that also.

hoof print · Apr 9, 2016

Use what is recommended in the manual. If needed, it will recommend viscosity differences based on location. Since it"s a new truck, your warranty will probably require the use of synthetic or synthetic blend oil.

jm. · Apr 9, 2016

That is what I have ran in the last 4 ford f150 I have had, No problems at all and ran them off the computer change program.

Sprint 6 · Apr 9, 2016

Here is what I tell customers that ask me brand or type questions. Put oil in it, keep it full, change it atleast every 5k. Don't get caught in the hype. I carry one type of oil in my shop for my standard oil change, 5w30 semi-synthetic because I get an awesome price on it. Everything gets it, including my own, without problems. If the customer wants something special, I get it and it costs extra.

ditchwitch · Apr 9, 2016

I will comment on this topic only because i have done a little reading about Synthetic Oil that actually changed my mine about it. Myself i am kinda like you but i am Brand Loyal. Change oil 3500 to 4500 miles just like i was taught from Dad with Regular conventional Oil. Always thought Synthetic Oil was nothing but high priced smoke and mirrors.
But after doing some reading from the site Bob is the oil guy it started to make sence.
Bottom line is Conventional Oils the molecules will break down under heat even just regular operating temperature.
Synthetic Oil which is man made the molecules dont break down. Thats what changed my mind about Synthetic Oil. Now i still dont use it but i do have a different opinion about it. I say if your going to change your oil often then why the high priced stuff.

notjustair · Apr 9, 2016

Lordy, tell me where you could get a new pickup (with options for farm work) for 40k. I'd jump right out and do it! The "new" pickup is 9 years old and was 38k. It is only a half ton and no leather, sunroof, or other extras. You can bet I never buy a dually new. I treat that thing like gold even though I hate it. I don't want to have to replace it any time soon!

Hoenes · Apr 9, 2016

Ditto M-Man. I have never relied on an oil monitor and never will. Always go by mileage.

vscummins · Apr 9, 2016

I use synthetic and I use oil analysis to tell me if my change intervals are working or not have ran as far 15000 miles in diesel pickup still with a good clean sample I also use the analysis to see if there is any antifreeze or anything else in the oil

MDFJ · Apr 10, 2016

(quoted from post at 19:13:05 04/09/16) I will comment on this topic only because i have done a little reading about Synthetic Oil that actually changed my mine about it. Myself i am kinda like you but i am Brand Loyal. Change oil 3500 to 4500 miles just like i was taught from Dad with Regular conventional Oil. Always thought Synthetic Oil was nothing but high priced smoke and mirrors.
But after doing some reading from the site Bob is the oil guy it started to make sence.
Bottom line is Conventional Oils the molecules will break down under heat even just regular operating temperature.
Synthetic Oil which is man made the molecules dont break down. Thats what changed my mind about Synthetic Oil. Now i still dont use it but i do have a different opinion about it. I say if your going to change your oil often then why the high priced stuff.

I have to say with the rest stick with the OEM.
The only thing I cannot get answered is WHERE DO THEY GET THE BASE INGREDIENT to make Synthetic oil???
You have to have a base to start with in-order to make it??
No OIL MANUFACTURES or others have never been able to answer me about this. Yes Units using this will burn more oil!!
The Police cars are a good example. Oil breaks down from the carbons that are burnt and condensation, That creates acids.
As i said before the over the road trucker can go 100,000 miles.
We can't because of short runs and stop and go. The drive train never gets up to proper operating Temp. to burn out the water.
Also OIL now day's doesn't have (ZINC, SULFUR) witch were lube's for solid lifters, Cams and other engine components.
They took it out of all of most engine oils because of catalytic converters. It's becoming more common in all oils. The only oil I know of that still has Zinc is Rolttela, Shaffer, in Diesel oil's.
But being changed as talked about.
Stick with the OEM. If out of Warr. as said above use a good conventional oil for you'r climate and make sure it has a W between the numbers. W Stands for (Winter additive Package.)

Geo-TH,In · Apr 10, 2016

ditchwitch,
I agree, oil does break down. When it does, it turns black and engines starts to burn it. That happens at different hours and miles in different engines. That's when I change it.

As for synthetics, it too will eventually do the same, turn black and engine will start burning it. May last a little longer. Not sure it worth the extra money. I use it in air cooled engines because they tend to run hotter.

In my older tractors, which have rebuilt engines, I use the cheap stuff only because I may only use it 50 hrs a year. Changing oil annually helps flush the condensation out of the engines.

So in some cases it's not how long the oil is good for , but how often you need to flush the engine condensation. geo

Leroy · Apr 10, 2016

I would change that to what it came from factory with, not recommendation. then as soon as I could go to good old type of oil.

Blackhole49 · Apr 10, 2016

Boy, the salesman saw you coming. I paid $28,500 for my 08 1/2 ton extended cab Silverado out the door, tax title and registration included. They even gave me 6 years @ 0% interest to pay for it.

buickanddeere · Apr 10, 2016

New vehicles have to have low ash oil. Or the intake valves will gum up with deposits. High ash will also bung up exhaust after treatment devices.

RandyB(MI) · Apr 10, 2016

The answer to your question is this : There are two completely different products here , one is "synthetic lubricant" which is NOT what you see in the stores. It is completely man made from polymers/resins and a few other chemicals and is what is used in the aerospace industry. The one we all see in the store will say "synthetic oil" which is completely derived from petroleum but with a lot of man made (synthetic) additives to achieve the characteristics they are after. It IS subject to specific refining and chemically altered so that a very high percentage of the molecules are all the same size/nature. ( put one board on top of another board with all different sizes of ball bearings between them and only the larger ones will carry ALL the load as apposed to ALL being the same size and all will carry load/libricate.) A true synthetic "lubricant" would not be affordable.

INCase · Apr 11, 2016

The Best synthetics the group 4 (AMSOIL signature series, mobill 1) synthetics are made from various chemicals most of which are derived from natural gas.

These chemicals are the same/similar that are found naturally in crude oil but since they are extracted from Nat Gas they are more refined and pure.

I use AMSOIL in my cars and lawn equipment.

These newer cars (AND Trucks and Tractors) are more sensitive than the old. both internally and emissions wise. You MUST use the oil the owners manual says (equivalent).

THis may offend some but if you have any engines built in the last 3-6 years you can no longer "just put 15w40 shell rotella in everything"

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