I have a 730 loader on the Ford 2000 and I want to make it a little easier to remove once in a while. Here's my plan, I'm going to bury 2-4x4's standing up, then attach one across the top. On the top piece I'll hang my chain hoist to lift the loader arms off the tractor just enough to back out from the loader. I'll use a strap around both arms to lift evenly. After the tractors free I'll lower the arms down on to two supports that will keep the loader stable while not in use. I'm going to install quick connects for the hydraulic lines. The loader frame will be left on the tractor because it has a front pump and that's a hassle to remove. What do you guys think?
- Thread starter the mick
- Start date
J. Schwiebert
Well-known Member
Where is the reservoir for the loader? You need to be able to have flow through the pump at all times.
gtractorfan
Well-known Member
My dad made to pipe stands with plates welded to the bottoms along with 2 brackets on the loader arms, U shaped with a clamp plate to hold the loader when it's off the tractor.
I did that same thing except not that high. I just went a foot or so above the loader frame , drilled for 2 "I" bolts in line with the loader frame. I use 2 3/8 inch turnbuckles and short chain to raise the loader, only need totake pressure off the pins to remove, and back out. I leave the main cylinders on tractor and remove in shop to store. A 6 pin one man job. Is a little harder to put back on to line up, I have used another tractor to "bump" into place when drift pin is not enough. Been using it several years. Luck , joe
Determined
Well-known Member
What works for me may or may not work in your situation.
Back tilt the bucket and lower it down.
Drive forward until touching a solid tree or pole.
Wrap a chain around the tree 5-6 feet up.
Hook another chain up high to both of the loader arms where it can't slip back.
A couple of cranks on a come a long hooked between the tree and loader will take the weight off the pins.
Unhook, back out, install suitable saftey stand/support and you are good to go.
Regardless of what you do, come time to hook it back up it will never line up just right.
Dirt settles, tires wear, inflation pressure changes etc.
You will have to do some playing/swearing to get it back on.
Back tilt the bucket and lower it down.
Drive forward until touching a solid tree or pole.
Wrap a chain around the tree 5-6 feet up.
Hook another chain up high to both of the loader arms where it can't slip back.
A couple of cranks on a come a long hooked between the tree and loader will take the weight off the pins.
Unhook, back out, install suitable saftey stand/support and you are good to go.
Regardless of what you do, come time to hook it back up it will never line up just right.
Dirt settles, tires wear, inflation pressure changes etc.
You will have to do some playing/swearing to get it back on.
I made a portable A frame out of 3 inch pipe, for the same purpose. Frame on each side, pipe across the top, and braces. If using wood, I"d go heavier than what you"re planning. Maybe a safety chain (bolt the ends together) to keep vandals and the curious from messing with it?
This is an alternate solution, trade the loader for a "quick-tach" loader. On or off in less than five minutes, they've been around for over forty years. A removable loader almost doubles the usefulness of the tractor. Maybe trade the tractor and loader as a unit as someone else will still have a good use for a tractor with a permanently mounted loader.
notjustair
Well-known Member
Isn't that the truth. Taking the loader off was something that you only did if three of your uncles and a neice were kidnapped. My newer loader tractor is a true quick connect. It literally takes me longer to walk around the tractor and unplug the hydraulic lines than it does to mount the loader. I take that stupid thing off to change the oil in the tractor.
gears
Member
Don't forget to uncouple the pump drive if you're disconnecting the reservoir and valve. If it were me I'd see if dropping the dipperstick/bucket assembly and yanking the lift cyls was enough to get your manuverability back.
I doubt you could sell your setup for enough cash to get a quick-tach unit.
I doubt you could sell your setup for enough cash to get a quick-tach unit.
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