Cost of rural tractor service?

I recently posted an issue with rust building up around the valve stems on the tires of my 77 3600 tractor. I received several informative responses but now am wondering what the average cost might be to have someone come out, drain, repair and refill both rear wheels. I ask because I recently purchased a 5' rotary mower that shipped from NC to AZ. I asked several times if the 18 wheeler that would deliver it had a lift gate and would come out on a not so nice dirt road, of course they would. I received a phone call from the driver that he was in Chino Valley, telling me that they could not drive down dirt roads. Really? Does anyone out there live on property that requires a 5' rotary mower to maintain and it's paved to your house? I'm sure some do, but I would bet the majority don't. So, that was the long version of why I ask what a "house call" might cost to do repairs on a tractor not on a paved road. And by the way, the mower was shipped upright on a pallet. Probably convenient for the shipper but a pain for the person receiving it.

Around here. I think it is 128.00 an hour plus mileage. From the time they leave the shop. Until they return.

You might be better off buying new rims and have them come out and switch them out. They may not be able to repair the old rims at location and may need to take them to their shop. When I drove we ran several lift gate trailers(45 Ft.) and wouldn't go down some dirt roads. Most dirt roads are narrow and makes impossible to back into drive way or turn around and certain times of the year dirt roads won't take the weight truck.

I'll second the new rims. Good chance once they are dismounted there won't be anything left to fix, especially if you are hiring it done. No one wants to be responsible for their repair failing or getting someone hurt.

Are the tires good? If questionable, why even spend the money having them dismounted? Might be a good time to start with everything new.

I had a J.D. 420u with about a 2" hole rusted out around the valve stem. I took it to is a welder and he had another rim, cut the section out of each rim and welded it in my rim. Cost me about 60.00. Well worth it to me. Not a show tractor but unless you point it out, most people will never notice.

What you will most likely find out is that the tire changing place will not mess with welding the rims. And your welder is not going to mess with taking the tires off for you. You'll pay the tire place to come out removed the tires then take the rims to a welder to have them patched - then tire place will come back out to remount your tires.

I would definitely check if they'll mount tires on rims that have been welded on. May not be a big deal - might be a huge deal.

I can't recall what it cost, but last year I had a tractor
in at the Co-op for tire service. They welded a patch
over the rusted spot and drilled a new valve stem
hole and put a new tube in it. Go see the guys in the
tire shop at the Co-op. Offer to leave it a week so
they can play with it in their down time.

I had tires pumped dry and others filled on that shop
ticket but I want to say the patch job was $150 or
some such thing. They really took pride in it - you'd
never know they worked on it unless I pointed it out.
The Co-op guys are usually the ones that have the
old time skills and like to putter like that.

I'm sure a salesman assured you that they would make a delivery to your door.

As a driver, I ain't starting down a dirt road I can't see the end of, with a clear spot to turn around at the far end.

53' trailers and your one lane horse path just don't mix.

Well--- as you have noticed with the replies to your posts, everyone has an opinion!!! Many advocate spending your hard earned money on all new stuff without any idea of the actual condition of your rims that you haven't posted any pics of, to sugest a reasonable repair. I would disreguard most all the replies here, and contact a couple farm tire repair businesses in your area and listen to what they have to say and do what your budget allows.
Loren

I agree with Loren, without a picture to see what the rim damage is there is no way to tell how to fix it or what it might cost.

Easier to back up a
53' trailer than a set
of doubles...

Ross

I've done this kind of repair and currently have 2 rims that need the same repair. I may blow it off and just get new rims as I do not have the time for the tractor to be down. I also do not want to pay the repair man, whom mind you is really good and very nice. I won't know what is needed until I break down the rim and tires and see if the rims are too far gone, so I'll be down awhile for the rim repairs vs using new ones which will be costly, but I won't be without a tractor if I have them on hand and swap the tires onto them. He's done good work for me in the past. He'd dismount the tire in no time, after pumping out the ballast of CACL in the tube. I'd repair the rim, then he'd come back when that's done, then re-mount the tire and replace or use new CACL depending. Its going to be $500 or more for both depending on whats needed I hired it out. That being the case, new rims and me just doing the labor, I'll be done in a day, he'd be done in a few hours or less LOL ! The CACL in flake form is not as cheap as it once was, neither are tubes which can be of questionable quality. I get my supplies from GCR tire, an eastern seaboard regional tire company, same as the tire repair guy, also get CACL in flake at the same place. He has a truck, equipment and similar to maintain + profit and any other overhead, and all of that is fair to him for the on site service he provides.

I watched and learned to do tire work from the repair person and now do my own when possible. The rust is likely from a leaky valve core, they do need to be changed periodically on CACL loaded tires. I have one tractor that I did all the tire work on with CACL loaded tires that have no issues, just take care of those leaks in a timely manner, done correctly CACL is fine. I've had no leaks at all on this tractor and its now due for valve cores. Would I prefer wheel weights or other forms of ballast, probably, but you work with what you have or can afford. Many will disagree because CACL is corrosive or alkali, which ever. So... why put it back in once doing all that work and risk it happening again. Worthy of consideration but the if done properly and maintained, its fine. One may prefer something else, but if you have to, know whats involved and do what is necessary when it needs to be done, you won't lose a rim if you do this. My current tractor, the previous owner let those valves leak way too long and both rims need repairs or at least new tubes. Let the valves leak or a puncture go, expect a costly repair.

The rim can be repaired if its just the valve holes or smaller areas that are rusted out. If you can weld, clean up the rusted valve hole or sections and plug weld it, patch evenly/smoothly then drill a new hole else where on the rim, make a flat spot like the original hole if you can. I've repaired at least 2 like that now. This is mainly labor, + some welding consumables. Paint the rim as you wish once its clean and the repair is done, let it dry, replace the tube with a new one and mount the tire again, load with ballast if needed, there are some non corrosive alternatives, RV anti-freeze, non freeze windshield wiper fluid, Rim Guard (sp?) or find some wheel weights. You'll need a pair of tire spoons, a means to break the bead, the fill valve with the air release (tsc has them so does gemplers) a pump, (I used a drill pump) or gravity if you can set that up. I use a loader bucket with a block of wood to break the tire bead. You can run over a portion of the tire with a vehicle to do the same. Learn how to use the spoons, take small bites as you move the tire bead over the rim or you will damage the bead/threads etc. With CACL use extra care to wash off any of that that spills onto steel or elsewhere, it will kill plants, grass etc, so use care when disposing or handling.

If none of the above appeals to you, just like Loren said, call and get some prices. Its one or the other with these.

I've never done tractor tires before a certain time, I could not afford to pay someone so I had to learn and some of my oldest work is approaching 10 years old with no issues, and there is CACL ballast in these too. I think it was worth learning, for smaller tires like these, they are manageable, larger ones may be too difficult to handle, all depends on ones ability and what tools/equipment they have. There is a reason the tire repair persons is costly, sometimes its just best to pay them too.

We really need pictures. What you may think as very rusty, maybe fine to run for years.

Put an ad on Craigslist probably someone in the area does that type work on the side.I found a really good tractor mechanic that way.

I've never known of an 18 wheel truck delivering to a farm without prior inspection of the road. With satellite images things may be different.
It's been a couple of years since I had the coop put on tires but they charged $125 a tire for 18.4x38 and no fluid. I don't know of any tire service that will repair a rim but there may be some.

If you are concerned about rust around the valve stem, take some pictures of both areas and bring them to the the tire store before you schedule the work. They should be able to quickly make the call if they look good, might be questionable or need repair. You can then work out the best repair or make other arrangements.

Shop rate plus mileage and a service call fee would be appropriate for an on-farm service call. If you're not more than twenty five miles from the tire store it might be easier and less expensive to drive your tractor to and from the tire store for rear tire replacement.

The mower story is an example of where it might have worked better to pay a local dealer the extra 25 percent to assemble, adjust, deliver, install and maybe demonstrate how to use the mower.

I just got back to Phx after 8 days up in Chino Valley just N of Prescott, great weather Let's start with the rim replacement or repair: appreciate all the options and I wish I had some pictures, will take some next time up north. The rust around the tire stem is roughly the size of putting a washer (3/8" maybe?) around the stem. It appears from the advice given I may be better off replacing the rims due to convenience. With that said, I just may run them until one fails. I also am not reliant on the tractor if it's down for a while so that helps.
As for the 18 wheeler making the delivery, I completely understand why they may not drive down a dirt road, that's why I asked 3 times if they actually would. I assumed they would drop it off to another shipper with a flatbed or box touck with a lift gate. Being a first time buyer of a rotary mower if the seller or shipper had given me the options of having it shipped locally, had them assemble it and a quick instructional training session would have been great. Sounds like career opportunitie out west As always, I appreciate everyone's input. By the way, am I the only one that looks back at the mower from the tractor and the front end appears "higher" than it really is? After two broken shear pins I took a break and my wife showed me some pictures of me mowing, the front end of the mower was noticably lower than what I though it was :?