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JD 300 Diesel won't start

C

Coca-Cola Dave

Member
I never had a starting problem before but I do now. I ran it last week, parked it and it just won't start again. Has fuel, turns over well but won't start. Smoke comes out the stack when turning over so I think there's a bad connection somewhere. Not familiar with electrical. Any suggestions?
 
I have a 300D that did what you describe. a neighbor found a cracked injector line that was leaking and dropping the pressure enough that it wouldn't start. he fixed line and it started like new. all lines and fittings should be examined for even the smallest of leak.
 
That it is puffing smoke (vapor), it is getting fuel.

Is there an intake heater or glow plugs that could not be working?
 
You are getting fuel if it puffs, I would suspect a glow plug or heater issue if it has them

Hold off on Ether.
 
I'm not sure if it has glow plugs but I'll check the book again. I didn't see anything about them before but I also don't see anything electrical around the cylinders where the injectors are.
 

There are NO glow plugs. It's a direct-injected 152 cube engine.
Is it turning over as fast as usual?
 
(quoted from post at 17:18:51 03/23/16)
There are NO glow plugs. It's a direct-injected 152 cube engine.
Is it turning over as fast as usual?
Click to expand...

Yes it's turning over as usual. I'm thinking it's not getting enough fuel?
 
If it is a heat problem, an alternative to ether would be to set a salamander heater so it would heat the engine. That will take a few
minutes like about 10-15 or less. I have done that to a n 8430 to start in cold weather in the field.
 

If it was running fine when you shut if off, and now won't start - it is possible the metering-valve is stuck (in the top of the injection pump). There is NO positive mechanical connection between the fuel-shut-off solenoid and the metering valve. What pump do you have? Model CB with a wire on the side that pulls off, or a model DB with a wire attached on top with a hex-nut?
 

Note - I am saying a stuck metering valve is your problem. But if it was - all it takes to access it is taking the three bolts out of the top cover of the pump, and taking the cover off. The shut-off (more like a 'turn on") solenoid comes off with the cover and there is no linkage attaching it to anything inside the pump. The solenoid uses power to energize a magnet - and that pulls a spring-loaded metal swing-arm out of the way of the metering valve. Once that arm is out of the way, a small spring pulls that valve open. When the solenoid is turned "off" it has an even stronger spring that pushes the metering valve closed.
34353.jpg
 

Okay great. I'll open the up tomorrow and see if that is the problem. I certainly hope so. Thank you for the tip. I'll let you know how/if it works out. Looks like a good possibility.
 
(quoted from post at 12:07:19 03/24/16)
Note - I am saying a stuck metering valve is your problem. But if it was - all it takes to access it is taking the three bolts out of the top cover of the pump, and taking the cover off. The shut-off (more like a 'turn on") solenoid comes off with the cover and there is no linkage attaching it to anything inside the pump. The solenoid uses power to energize a magnet - and that pulls a spring-loaded metal swing-arm out of the way of the metering valve. Once that arm is out of the way, a small spring pulls that valve open. When the solenoid is turned "off" it has an even stronger spring that pushes the metering valve closed.
34353.jpg
Click to expand...

Well, I removed the cover and checked the movement of the metering valve. It moved freely and it didn't seem like I did anything but after putting it back together, it started right up. I shut it off and did what I had to do with the hydraulics and it won't statr again. I'll do the same thing again. When I used to park it the front end was downhill. Now the rear is downhill. I guess gravity is keeping it closed. Must be a weak spring. DO you have any parts for this thing?
 

Okay I got it running again. I noticed that the cranking slowed down after the first few cranks. I shut off the pressure to the Hyd pump and it started fairly quickly. It may be that the starter needs a rebuild. Thank you to everyone that offered assistance. It's all good advice. I removed the fuel return gadget that has a glass ball in it. That may have helped also. I'll put it back at some point and see if it makes a difference. NOW, who knows of a good used JD parts dealer? I was buying parts from McGrew Tractor parts but my last 3 emails have gone unanswered.
 

Thank you. I do believe that cold weather was PART of the problem as it wasn't turning over fast enough. I also found that if I cut pressure to the hyd pump it turns over faster and starts up.
Thank you
 
(quoted from post at 11:54:17 04/15/16)
Ether Not a good idea on a 300 series Dubuque engine .
Click to expand...

I know that ether isn't a good idea but sometimes it's the only way I can get it to start. I'm not sure how fast it's supposed to turn over but I'm going to have the starter rebuilt and see if it helps. I certainly hope so.
 
If you're getting it to start with a shot of ether you might want to check the voltage on your battery and for about $20 replace both battery cables. The slightest corrosion build up on the connections or up the cable wires you can't see will suck the power needed to start a diesel. I had the same issue with my 3600 ford diesel, one or two shots of ether got it started but I know from reading many posts that this is not a good idea. No one goes out and buys a new tractor and they're told to use ether to get it started :shock: Once I replaced both battery cables mine started right up. Good Luck.
 
(quoted from post at 20:14:46 04/15/16)
(quoted from post at 11:54:17 04/15/16)
Ether Not a good idea on a 300 series Dubuque engine .
Click to expand...

I know that ether isn't a good idea but sometimes it's the only way I can get it to start. I'm not sure how fast it's supposed to turn over but I'm going to have the starter rebuilt and see if it helps. I certainly hope so.
Click to expand...

Before going wild on the starter. Just taking the starter apart and cleaning the dust and dirt out from around the brushes and commutator is a place to start.
The advice on the starter cables is sound. The Dubuqes used contravuluted chassis return connection through several sections of bolted together sheet metal.
Run a HD ground cable from one of the battery (-) , down to a starter mounting bolt.
The tractor does have two large batteries ? It's not uncommon to find a Dubuque where some cheapskate tried to use one battery. Two of the highest CCA possible batteries need to be crammed into the battery compartment.
 
(quoted from post at 18:10:47 04/16/16)
(quoted from post at 20:14:46 04/15/16)
(quoted from post at 11:54:17 04/15/16)
Ether Not a good idea on a 300 series Dubuque engine .
Click to expand...

I know that ether isn't a good idea but sometimes it's the only way I can get it to start. I'm not sure how fast it's supposed to turn over but I'm going to have the starter rebuilt and see if it helps. I certainly hope so.
Click to expand...

Before going wild on the starter. Just taking the starter apart and cleaning the dust and dirt out from around the brushes and commutator is a place to start.
The advice on the starter cables is sound. The Dubuqes used contravuluted chassis return connection through several sections of bolted together sheet metal.
Run a HD ground cable from one of the battery (-) , down to a starter mounting bolt.
The tractor does have two large batteries ? It's not uncommon to find a Dubuque where some cheapskate tried to use one battery. Two of the highest CCA possible batteries need to be crammed into the battery compartment.
Click to expand...

I do have two batteries and I use a high output booster/charger when I start it. Today was cool outside and it would not start. I used my torpedo heater on the engine to warm things up and it started well. I will try the negative cable idea though. It did seem weird to me that they would mount the grounds to the sheet metal. I'll take the starter aprat too. I'm sure I can help it turn faster just by cleaning and lubing it. I guess that saves a lot of copper. I have plenty of heavy wire. Thank you again for the tips. So for it's a better tractor than it was when I bought it. Now I have to boost the Hyd pressure. Somehow when I turned the shut off screw it effected the output pressure of the pump. I'm getting there. At least it's usable again. Getting the taper lock out of one of the cylinder pins was a chore. Not the best way to secure a pin. Thank you again my friend. Now, who sells used parts for this thing>?? I have a steering part I bought and don't need too. I'll try to sell it on ebay.
 

Could be that the previous owner had no clue and thought that ether was better than a block heater.
There is a possibility of smashed piston rings causing low compression ?
 
(quoted from post at 07:28:30 04/17/16)
Could be that the previous owner had no clue and thought that ether was better than a block heater.
There is a possibility of smashed piston rings causing low compression ?
Click to expand...

Thete could be some internal damage but it seems to run fine.
 
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