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Isuzu 3LD1 engine overheating

M

markct

Well-known Member
I have a Daewoo 035 mini excavator that has a Isuzu 3LD1 engine, it runs fine till your working it hard, digging steady or using the blade, roading it uphill etc. I replaced the thermostat, it was missing when I got the machine, I then took it out and drilled some extra holes around the edges for more flow. Still when working hard gets up to around 235 or 240, afraid that in summer it won't make it since it's only in the 40s lately. The hydraulic cooler is in front of radiator, but hydraulic temp is only about 130, not abnormally warm. I posted it in this section as this motor is used in many things, pumps, generator etc so hopefully someone has encountered this. I'm kinda leaning towards a thermostat issue still as later models used a much larger thermostat and housing so I'm guessing they had an issue, not a cheap or easy update tho
 
I suspected that, but it says right around
180 when just run to warm up, and that's
about where it should be when thermostat
opens, and holds steady there when worked
lightly. It was a brand new Stewart Warner
gauge and sender, although nowadays who
knows where they are made
 
I've got an IHI 30 machine with the same engine. After 10 years of trouble free use, it too started overheating just as yours has. Checked thermostat, radiator, gauge, couldn't figure it out. Finally took a close look at the fan belt (tough to do on this machine, not a lot of room), and it was worn to the point where it was riding way down in the pulleys. Changed out belt and no more overheating. I think the radiator is marginal and the belt was slipping just enough to reduce cooling. Never noticed it squealing either.
 
(quoted from post at 08:39:07 03/22/16) I have a Daewoo 035 mini excavator that has a Isuzu 3LD1 engine, it runs fine till your working it hard, digging steady or using the blade, roading it uphill etc. I replaced the thermostat, it was missing when I got the machine, I then took it out and drilled some extra holes around the edges for more flow. Still when working hard gets up to around 235 or 240, afraid that in summer it won't make it since it's only in the 40s lately. The hydraulic cooler is in front of radiator, but hydraulic temp is only about 130, not abnormally warm. I posted it in this section as this motor is used in many things, pumps, generator etc so hopefully someone has encountered this. I'm kinda leaning towards a thermostat issue still as later models used a much larger thermostat and housing so I'm guessing they had an issue, not a cheap or easy update tho
Click to expand...

Check the water pump.
 
Completely clean, I had this machine tore down entirely as it has a minor fire before I bought it, radiator cleaned inside and out
 
Impeller worn or broke your thinking? It
cools off fast when you stop working it
hard so if has to be circulating I would
think. What's best way to check just remove
it
 
Belt is new and seems to be riding up where it should, think it's tight but I will verify again
 
If it maintains cooling while idling, but not when working I would suspect a radiator or water pump issue.
 
(quoted from post at 09:34:02 03/22/16) Impeller worn or broke your thinking? It
cools off fast when you stop working it
hard so if has to be circulating I would
think. What's best way to check just remove
it
Click to expand...
If it hasn't been replaced in a while I would just put a new one on....it sounds like it isn't moving enough coolant. I fought my Cummins all last summer that had the same problem, new pump and everything is fine.
 
Ok I will look that way! Maybe why it had
the thermostat out to compensate, curious
what was bad in your water pump? Only thing
I can picture is broken impeller
 
(quoted from post at 09:44:48 03/22/16) Ok I will look that way! Maybe why it had
the thermostat out to compensate, curious
what was bad in your water pump? Only thing
I can picture is broken impeller
Click to expand...
It wasn't broken or didn't look worn, only reason I changed it was it was starting to seep. When I got it out it had a nice bit of play in the bearings. Maybe it cocked just enough to not pump efficiently....
 
The plot thickens, the original water pump
with small thermostat it's not even
available anymore it's about $350 to change
over to the new style pump with larger
thermostat. I think for now I will remove
the thermostat and see if that helps. I
don't want to cook the motor but also can't
swing that much money to change it over
right now either
 
Can you plumb in a generic mechanical temp gauge anywhere for testing purposes? Might be $20 well spent to make SURE there is a problem before buying parts.
 
(quoted from post at 10:13:54 03/22/16) The plot thickens, the original water pump
with small thermostat it's not even
available anymore it's about $350 to change
over to the new style pump with larger
thermostat. I think for now I will remove
the thermostat and see if that helps. I
don't want to cook the motor but also can't
swing that much money to change it over
right now either
Click to expand...

That kind of tells me there was a problem with the original design...might be better off to just spend the money now and save the engine.
 
Well,I believe you should put a new thermostat in without any holes in it.The coolant has to be regulated thru the radiator:with the holes in your thermostat,it is circulating too fast,and the coolant is not in the radiator long enough to give up the heat it absorbed in the block.I would look at air flow thru the radiator.See if the fan can pull a rag up to it when running at various rpms.See if the fins are clean,and not bent up.Also use an infra red thermometer to check against your guage-it may read a few degrees cooler than what you are seeing on your gauge,but if it is 30* or more,I would doubt the gauge.Lastly you may need to do the up grade-many engines are built with minimal cooling capacity by the chasis oem,and not what the engine oem recomennded.Mark
 
Naturally I had no holes in the thermostat when I first put it in. It overheated that way so tried the holes, it helped but still runs hotter than it should
 
I agree, I'm leaning towards that, just
going to try it without thermostat to prove
the theory somewhat and get me along a bit
till I can easier afford it
 
We have a newer little squirt boom forklift at work that was running warm. We found it had thrown all of the plastic blades on the fan. The radiator is very difficult to see amongst all the hydraulics/ducting/hoses/boom and whatnot. In a warmer climate it would have overheated.
 
Fan is perfect and brand new as the old one was part melted from the fire before I bought it
 
I appreciate all the advice, I feel better having gotten the opinions of all of you to be sure I'm not missing something simple etc
 
How is the air flow across the radiator? If the fan blades had been melted from a fire,I believe you said,how is the fan shroud?Also is the fan blowing in the correct direction?Air flow has been a problem more often than thermostats in my experience-thermostats usually fail and run cool,more than hot.Mark
 
Shroud and radiator are perfect, only part of radiator damaged was the overflow tube had to be resoldered. Shroud is metal, fan is correct oem part and moves air well.
 
Noticed something yesterday I really don't believe, but it's true. I had gone to O'Reillys to get some diesel radiator coolant additive to prevent corrosion. [Perkins diesel, MF tractor.] Added half the can, ran the tractor, got it all mixed in. Noticed the can said it makes the engine run cooler. I thought Yeah yeah.... By golly, it did just that! Engine runs significantly cooler. Looks like 10F cooler or so.
 
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