BREAKING IN A NEW ENGINE

GENE DERRINGER · Mar 10, 2016

I have replaced every conceivable bearing, rings, pistons, cam, rods, etc. in a 52 JD A. I am looking for advice as to how to break it in. Any suggestions as to lead additive, use of Marvel Mystery oil, other additives, etc? I will appreciate any help you can give. Thanks.

David G · Mar 10, 2016

I would use the JD break in oil, get it running, then put to work ASAP for a good solid day.

RBoots · Mar 10, 2016

I always use Lucas break in oil additive, start it up, make sure it runs right, tweak anything that needs to be tweaked. If all is good, oil pressure, etc, I run it at half throttle for 15 minutes or half an hour, then take it out and work it at capacity without lugging it for a couple hours. Then I run them for 4-6 more hours doing different types of jobs and loads. Works for me, did my first that way to see if it held up, and done them all that way since. My first was an Oliver 77. With 15 minutes on it, I hooked it to a 6' flail and mowed 4' tall Indian grass with it in first gear. My buddy has it now, his dad tractor pulls with it sometimes.

Ross

Goose · Mar 10, 2016

Haven't broken in a new tractor engine in years, but breaking in a new stock car engine was simple.

Let it run as much as possible before going to a race. Even if working in the shop, fire it up and let it idle to let all the parts get used to each other. Then at the track, the warmups were usually enough up and down on rpm to seat the rings. Take it a little easy in the heat race, and by the feature take the bridle off of 'er.

Paul from MI · Mar 10, 2016

Best thing you can do is make sure you have oil pressure the instant the engine starts. either pressurize the oil galleries with an air/oil tank or motor the engine over with the spark plugs out until oil pressure shows on the gage before actually starting it. Then let it run at about half throttle for 1/2 hour or so, checking for leaks, noises, etc. Then 8-10 hours at a moderate load, checking oil and water levels often. Then good to go.

buickanddeere · Mar 10, 2016

(quoted from post at 20:33:02 03/10/16) I have replaced every conceivable bearing, rings, pistons, cam, rods, etc. in a 52 JD A. I am looking for advice as to how to break it in. Any suggestions as to lead additive, use of Marvel Mystery oil, other additives, etc? I will appreciate any help you can give. Thanks.

Take the tractor out and use it at 180-195F coolant temp for hours and work it hard but don't lug it.
Idling, putzing and putting around just loads the engine up with unburned fuel and wipes the lubrication layer off.

Super Trucker · Mar 10, 2016

Run to get temp up 30min or so and retourqe the head bolts and check the valves while your in there and run the snot out of it. When I had a high end engine built for a 4x4 project the builder laughed when I asked about break in. If you are confident in YOUR work run it!

David G · Mar 10, 2016

I totally agree with this, the best engines I have had have been worked hard from the start.

MSD · Mar 10, 2016

Been just running 30 W non detergent for a breaking oil. No problems

Janicholson · Mar 10, 2016

No lead additive is needed. There is neither need nor reason. Use a good oil, run it for 10 hours with varying loads and speeds (no lugging). Change the oil, and run it like you intend to use it. Make sure there is at least 5 hours of near full load after 15 total hours. I also recommend precharging the oil gallery (using a squirt oil can with a rubber adapter into the oil pressure port will be fine. It might take 3 or 4 oil cans full to get ti charged. Jim

kub6040 · Mar 10, 2016

Not a guru , I let them run long enough to get timing set and head retouqed then work them as hard as I will ever work them , chisel plow , mould board plow, or your choice of a load that will make it grunt . Pull it till you are tired and then do it all again , this should give you good results.

Steve@Advance · Mar 10, 2016

The most critical item that requires break in is a flat tappet cam. They usually come with assembly grease, or a recommended grease to apply to the lifters and cam lobes. In addition, a diesel oil with zinc additive is helpful.

What a new cam and lifters does not like is extended cranking, running dry and no oil pressure until the galleys fill, and idling!

Prime the oil system, set the timing, check the spark and fuel, have it ready to bust off ASAP, and bring the RPM up, typically full governed speed on a tractor engine.

Of course you want to watch the oil pressure, temp, leaks, listen, make sure the rockers are oiling, etc., but try to keep the RPM up for at least 20 to 30 minutes. Then shut it down, retorque the head bolts, check the valve lash.

Once it goes to work, try not to fully load it for extended time until the rings have time to seat, avoid idling. The break in oil needs to stay in by the mfg recommendation, or about 1/2 the normal oil change period.

Gary from Muleshoe · Mar 11, 2016

Hook up the plow and head to the field. Set it deep and work it hard for a day or two. Nobody buys a new tractor to baby it for weeks. They are made to work so work it.

GENE DERRINGER · Mar 11, 2016

Thanks to all who took the time to answer. I really appreciate it.

Blackhole49 · Mar 11, 2016

I've asked this question before and nobody answered it. How many of the 17.5 million new cars sold last year were run hard for 30 minutes then had the head bolts re-torqued?

MikeJM · Mar 11, 2016

(quoted from post at 14:58:36 03/11/16) I've asked this question before and nobody answered it. How many of the 17.5 million new cars sold last year were run hard for 30 minutes then had the head bolts re-torqued?

None, my money is on the torque to yeild bolts aren't touched. But I'll bet they were all run hard on the first startup.

cuby · Mar 11, 2016

Had an old timer tell me once to start it witout any coolant,make sure oil pressure is up. Dont run to long,the heat will seat the rings faster. just my 2 cents.

Steve@Advance · Mar 11, 2016

Black, technology has changed dramatically since the antique engines we are discussing were made.

The old engines were designed to be field serviceable, enduring and forgiving. The head gaskets were thick and compressable to accommodate repeated disassembly and reassembly under less than perfect conditions.

Modern automotive engines are built to much tighter specs, improved technology, high tech bolts, thinner gaskets. They will run 300,000 miles, but are not forgiving of over heating or practical for multiple rebuilds.

BushogPapa · Mar 11, 2016

Engine should be put under at least a 50% Load within 20 Minutes of the 1st start-up..and 50 to 90% RPM..do NOT Labor the engine (stay 1 gear lower than Maximum Load)..
IF you run it longer than this Idling, the Cylinders will Glaze and the New Rings may NEVER Seat..

Vary the load often and run the tractor until it has Completely Heat-Soaked the entire engine.. at that point, it is READY for Re-Torque and re-set the Valve Clearances..
Change the oil (or at least the oil Filter) after 16 to 20 hours of operation..

Ron..

J.Wondergem · Mar 11, 2016

When I had my road tractor and had it overhauled, they said run it as you always do, just change the oil when you get home. That was about a week.

RBoots · Mar 11, 2016

Don't have to on a newer car, the torque to yield bolts are like a spring keeping tension on the heads and gaskets. Even newer vehicles have problems. GM intake gaskets? Long as it runs past warranty.

Ross

dr sportster · Mar 11, 2016

For flat tappet cam engines you are supposed use a higher zinc oil because in most oils zinc has been removed. That may not be so critical in a tractor engine as in a racing engine. This is only info I have read and really have no experience with but it did come in my last Isky cam instructions.

StrikeForce · Mar 12, 2016

I am glad this was brought up because I like reading the approaches. I am hopefully getting to this point soon with my '52 John Deere A as well. I have learned my lesson with smaller tractors after idling around all winter once after a rebuild. Never again.

From what I am reading, once I get everything ready to fire, I should get the engine running, basic tune the carb and get it on a trailer. There is not much of a load around my house for a tractor like this so I am thinking, maybe I need to find a neighboring farm and ask if I can pull a big disc or somewhat loaded hay wagon up and down the hills? I am trying to figure out what loads I could come up with to help break it in. I don't want to do something that takes me too far away from the house/trailer because Murphy always tells me that the further away from the trailer I am, the faster something will break and make me walk!

BREAKING IN A NEW ENGINE

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