Chain Breaker #50

JimS · Feb 20, 2016

I need to break a number 50 chain. Is there a slick way of doing this without having a breaker tool for every size chain?

Thanks

jon f mn · Feb 20, 2016

Grind the top off and punch the pins out.

Janicholson · Feb 20, 2016

A solid block of hard steel with a hole in it just larger than the pin (less than one pitch length away from an edge is first. A good pin punch that is just under the size of the link pin is next. Set the link to be broken such that the desired pin is in the hole, and drive out the pin with the punch. Jim

Bob · Feb 20, 2016

"without having a breaker tool for every size chain"

<img src = "http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31EBMwYoS0L.jpg">

A chain breaker like this will break chain sizes from $25 to #60.

dr sportster · Feb 20, 2016

I have the fancy tool but every time I just grind and knock out the link with a pin punch. Much easier .

gene bender · Feb 20, 2016

Just like other post says grind pin and drive it out easy to do

Tx Jim · Feb 20, 2016

(quoted from post at 14:58:15 02/20/16) I have the fancy tool but every time I just grind and knock out the link with a pin punch. Much easier .

Not easier if one doesn't have a grinder when out in hay field baling hay and one manages to break a link in a chain. I've carried in my toolbox & used a chain breaker many times since '87

gene bender · Feb 20, 2016

batt drill with grinding disc got to have tools for "breakdowns"

paul · Feb 20, 2016

The tool bob pictures works well for me in the field. Carry it in the combine. My combine uses a lot of #60, that is a workout for the tool, #50 chain it plays with nicely. It works fine with 60 as well, but maxed out.

Paul

DeltaRed · Feb 20, 2016

I've had one like pictured for 40+ years.Use it frewquently.

Tx Jim · Feb 20, 2016

(quoted from post at 16:30:29 02/20/16) batt drill with grinding disc got to have tools for "breakdowns"

Chain breaker in Bob's photo is a tool PLUS it doesn't have a battery that requires charging!!!! :lol:

jon f mn · Feb 20, 2016

They make a larger size that works well with #50 and larger chains.

rrlund · Feb 20, 2016

Hammer,anvil and punch. I don't even grind them. Lay it over a hole in the anvil,hit it with a ball peened hammer so it's flush,then knock it out the rest of the way with a punch.

fixerupper · Feb 20, 2016

Roger you beat me to it. Another variation to this way is to put a small socket under the link if you are in the field out in the prairie and far away from the shop and don't have access to something solid with the right size hole in it. Whack it good and hard with a hammer once and punch it out the rest of the way with a pin punch. When you are balancing it on a socket it helps to have someone hold the chain up.

paul · Feb 20, 2016

I thought it was 60 and bigger, my combine is a lot of 60 and some 50.

I will have to look again at the models.

Anyhow, they do work for me, when out in the field.

I've done a lot with a grinder and punch, that works too.

Paul

George G · Feb 21, 2016

Here's the ones I have. The lower left one is for 25-60 chain, lower right one is for 60-100 chain, and the one on top is for 100-160 chain

Don-Wi · Feb 21, 2016

I use a good cold chisel and knock a side plate off on the anvil. Do it on the side away from you, as sometimes those cone off with some speed and can ricochet a bit.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Andy Martin · Feb 21, 2016

I've just never had any luck keeping a battery powered tool in a tractor tool box. Chain breaker and several master link seem to always be ready, if a little rusty.

Chain Breaker #50

JimS

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jon f mn

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Janicholson

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Bob

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dr sportster

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gene bender

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Tx Jim

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gene bender

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paul

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DeltaRed

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Tx Jim

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jon f mn

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rrlund

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fixerupper

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paul

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George G

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Don-Wi

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Andy Martin

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