merlynr

Member
My old F350 has a lug nut that wouldn't come loose so with more torque I got it to turn a couple of rounds and then the whole thing started turning stud and all. I guess it is turning in the splines cause it won't come out. Question is if I remove axle and bearing will the drum come off with it? I think you drive the stud out with drum off.
 
Are you using a wrench or an air gun? An air gun will likely spin it off (no guarantee). You will have to replace the stud. HTH
 
Is it a left hand thread? I bought an 83 for parts. Tried to take one back wheel off and they were left hand on that side.
 
If I remember correctly, there are 2 flat head screws behind the wheel that hold the brake drum to the hub. You will have to get the wheel off to get to them. I agree with the others. Do what you have to to get the wheel off.
 
If you have access to a pneumatic chisel and an air compressor, I'd split the nut by cutting directly into the nut, parallel to the stud. Have done it before, and who cares if you damage the threads on an already damaged stud (stripped splines).
Can get them any tool place
 
that's what I do - just be careful when you get close to the wheel though. The hole is countersunk so it's easy to make a mess of the rim. Sometimes it's easier to finish it with a cold chisel. easier on the rim anyways.


I think somebody else mentioned this - but are you aware of left hand threads? not sure what year ford stopped using them, but I got burned on that myself recently.

They should have an L on them if they are left hand threads.
 
(quoted from post at 17:56:52 01/27/16) that's what I do - just be careful when you get close to the wheel though. The hole is countersunk so it's easy to make a mess of the rim. Sometimes it's easier to finish it with a cold chisel. easier on the rim anyways.

It's rh threads. I've got the other 7 off. It's difficult with a chisel etc because of deep dished rim and not wanting to ruin rim. These rims are scarce since they replace the old locking ring type which required a tube.
 
I agree with tractorguy, drill down the center of the lug nut drilling out the stud. Use a good bit. Thats the way we do it at the shop. Saves the wheel and goes pretty quick.
 
We cut off dozens of the with an air hammer and chisel. Also have a welding shop that would heat the nut red hot then drive the stud back into the hub. When the stud gets even with the nut they would grab ahold of the nut with a pair of blacksmith tongs, pull it out from the rim, then torch it off it off. Steel rims.
 
you're probably right.

But I can tell you for sure the driver's side fronts are left hand on the 47's.

Had to snap a few before it clicked!
 
(quoted from post at 13:30:46 01/28/16) you're probably right.

But I can tell you for sure the driver's side fronts are left hand on the 47's.

As stated before all of mine are rh threads. I completed the job using a 4" grinder and drilling most of the stud plus some chiseling. Took a couple of hours doing that but now I've replaced all of the old locking ring tube type rims with replacement wheels from what I believe is from 79-early 84 F350's. Had to buy one new tire as one was in bad shape. Thanks for the help with this job.
Tire shop said they don't do locking ring rims but I told them all they have to do is dismount old tire from old rim and they agree to do the job. I already had the air out of the old tires.
 

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