Torque wrench

do you mean for a left hand thread? or are you trying to calculate how much force to break a bolt loose?
 
How big? There are some split beam style ones that will work either way. Also the basic beam wrenches will read both directions.
 
I've got an old one here with just a rod and a gauge on it that reads either way. Won't a Snap On ratchet type click both ways? Never tried now that you mention it.
 
My cheapo from harbor freight has a lever just like a ratchet wrench does and I can measure torque going both ways.
 
I have a snap on but it does not reverse I bought a cheap one at the farm store that will reverse but it won't read torque in reverse the reason is I lost a set of duals the other day trying to find how much they are over torqued set my snap on to 250 foot pounds forward nuts won't budge spec is 160 max
 
I have a "clicker" that can be reversed same as a ratchet. Without going down to my shop and checking, I'm not sure of the brand. One of my wife's brothers gave it to me years ago and I don't know where he got it.
 
how about a set of those torque extensions- half-inch drive extensions set at a torque level for each one? not really infinite, but may work in both directions.
 
The best way to do that is by break away method. Make a line from bolt head onto the surface its tighting to. Loosen the bolt a half turn and then tighten back to line and note the torque. We do that on all the test engines when we tear down.
 
Beam type torque wrenches will read from either direction. Much more accurate than click type torque wrenches.
 
The next question is how can I document or prove how much they are over torque for the insurance company ?
 
A half impact set on full power was used to torque em. Just that bolts torqued to over 100 foot pounds above spec will fail
 
Without fancy tools, I would say a bean wrench would be easiest. Make a line from bolt on to surface built goes through. Put wrench and start pulling. When it moves you know what torque you got. Put a camera to document the pull and reading and movement of said bolt. At least that is what I would do.
 
This is the only way to check it. A measurement of how much torque required to loosen it would be meaningless.
 
Mark the nuts, as was suggested, photograph the marks, break them loose and then retorque while video recording. Or call your agent and have him come and witness the test. Or ask your local trustworthy person, such as a deputy, witness the test. Agent should tell you what he requires.

You can use a hanging scale and a cheater to measure torque as well. Just carefully measure from the point you hook the scale to on a cheater bar to the pivot on the breaker bar. A five foot cheater pulling 50# is 250 ft-lbs torque. If you use a scaffold so you can run the cheater straight up, all the load on the scale is the force on the cheater.
 
I'm Licensed on GE's and Rolls Royce Gas Generators (J79/LM1500...Rolls Royce SPEY). We had to use DIAL Torque Wrenches that show Torque in both directions, CCW/CW.
What is the TORQUE Value (FT/LBS or INCH/LBS) you are concerned with?
Bob..
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You should take a witnessed movie of your removing the bolts with a beam type wrench. The argument will be that the removal torque is more than the tightening torque due to stiction (Stiction is the static friction that needs to be overcome to enable relative motion of stationary objects in contact. The term is a portmanteau of the term "static friction", perhaps also influenced by the verb "stick".) A test example of the torque to remove can be made (with new bolts) to illustrate your facts. Start with a bolt that is torqued to 50% of intended value, then 75%, then 100%, then 125, 150 (or what you think they were torqued to). Showing the removal torque for each torque spec. Arguments will abound. I was on a school bus that the bus driver's son torqued too far (Budd Wheels with a torque multiplier wrench). Both duals on the left side snapped off while we were going down a gravel road. Jim
 
I have a pre-Columbian wrench with a simple pointer/scale that reads both ways. No need to use in the negative area so far. I use a post Columbian Craftsman 'clicker'.
 
Hello vscummins,

Any wratchet type will do. Reverse torque will not prove overtourque.
Torque applied first accurately to a fastener, then marked and torqued againg with the faulty one, may be a better way to show it. Some kind of legal witness to the process would be a must! NO VIDEO EDITING,!!!!

Guido.
 
Static coefficient of friction vs. Kinetic coefficient of friction prevents an accurate measurement of torque when loosening a fastener. Not a useful measurement. Torque is only a secondary measure of the amount of force a fastener is exerting, and as such is not the most accurate method. Fortunately it is plenty good enough for ordinary use. Where very accurate measurements of tightening force are needed special fasteners with other methods of measuring bolt stretch are used.
 
Here is the aftermath of the ordeal 3000$ damage to the other
truck my tire hit and a broken drum and backing plate on my
truck
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Thanks for the advice guys I'm changing all the studs and lug nuts on the truck just for peace of mind I used some blue loctite on the ones I've already relppaced .
 
(quoted from post at 10:08:44 01/22/16) Thanks for the advice guys I'm changing all the studs and lug nuts on the truck just for peace of mind I used some blue loctite on the ones I've already relppaced .

Did the nuts come loose are over torquing strip the threads. I have had a set of duels work loose on a F350. The customer picked up on it so no major damage. From that event on I always run the nuts up and manually go back over them with a bar and pipe...

I had the left front on a older F350 (left had thread) work loose on a test drive :shock: In a mater of a mile I picked up on the vibration. It amazed me how fast they worked there way off the stud. There were indications it has happen before the rims were of the split ring type he had planed on replacing the rims anyways that event put the process in motion...

I understand your frustration a loose wheel to me is ranked up high on my list of things that shame me. Other than one wheel all the others were a damaged wheel are the incorrect wheel but in all cases I should have caught it the show stopped till it was corrected.. :!: I don't see how one could legally wiggle out of a preexisting condition if was aware of it are had some indication something did not go back together correctly...

I see allot of cars come into the shop with a missing lug nut How the last guy let it roll out his door like its no big deal is beyond me "see preexisting condition"
 

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