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Bar and Chain Oil

M

Moonlite37

Well-known Member
I heated some bar and chain oil today and it had an animal fat smell. I wonder if it has something like beef tallow. It apparently thins quickly. I have in the past heated oil and "cooked" ball bearings and thought this would be good to use but It apparently does not like heat. Anybody know what it has in it?
 
No, I don't know what is in it, but there is something in the oil that we sell that makes it very tacky. I guess they want it to stay in the chain and not be slung off as quickly. I never noticed the smell but my nose is not the best.
 
What does "cook a ball bearing" mean?? I have never heard that before, but there are lots of things I don't know.

I try to learn something new everyday, so today you will be my teacher.

Thanks!!
 
Advice here for dirty timber is to use something like sae 30 and forget the tacky as that holds the abrasives where you don't want them
 
I use Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer to get what you call tacky. I use 1 qt. to 3 quarts of oil to get what I like for my saws.
 
It has a sticky substance to adhere to chain. There is summer and winter grades (and extremely cold grade). It can be thinned with diesel. It used to be made with recycled oil and lower grade than engine oil
 

There are some B+C oils that are "biodegradable" and "green". I don't know if that might be part of it. But consider there are all sorts of additives to lubes. What you interpret as an animal fat smell may be something else entirely.

Mine currently smells like gas because it's summer weight oil and I've had to thin it to get it to flow this time of year!
 
My winter bar oil is a blend of winter bar oil and old bottles of ATF fluids I no longer have a use for. Never heated mine, so no idea what it smells like. I thin my oil just enough to see it fly off the end of the chain when in use. I figure any oil on chain is better than no oil.
 
I have 150 gallons of 20w50 Kendall motor oil that I run in all my old tractors that I've been using for bar and chain oil for years with good results.
 
I've also done the same in reverse, freeze an item in oil, like valve guides, something you want to shrink. The oil insulates, lubricates, holds the cold longer until the part is in place.
 
(quoted from post at 13:51:15 01/16/16) I use Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer to get what you call tacky. I use 1 qt. to 3 quarts of oil to get what I like for my saws.
Click to expand...


I bought a bunch of cans of STP at a close-out sale years ago real cheap.
I put a half a can in a gallon jug and fill it up with used motor oil.
It has to be pretty warm to get it to mix well but once mixed I have a good bar and chain oil. When available I use 30W oil from my tractor but have used 10W30 Mobil 1 when nothing else was available.
 
Hi, I use normal bar oil in summer (quite tacky). I bought a gallon of winter grade and it says on the container that it is 30 wt. Doesn't seem tacky. Ed Will
 
You have more money invested in your gallon mixture than buying a gallon of Stihls platinum bar oil.
 
I don't run winter bar oil because it is to thin and I run out of bar oil before fuel. I have saws set up to run out of gas at the same time oil is gone. I only have one saw that I can turn oil up or down easy.
 
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