- Thread starter JimS
- Start date
Ken Macfarlane
Well-known Member
I had a 1987 4wd V6, I think about 1995 or 1996 and it was already completely rusted out and had the worst maze of vacuum lines under the hood of any truck I've ever worked on. I sold it for 800$ then and it drove itself away, I was very happy at that point. They can't be worth much more than 200-300$ by now?
Ken Macfarlane
Well-known Member
That sounds bad, what I meant by it is surely you could find another motor cheaper than even buying the rebuild kit.
I hear you. The truck has been good. The first engine went over 200K. The second, a factory rebuild , was a joke and started smoking at 25K. Dodge never stood by their warranty. Even if I was a grand or 1500 on a rebuild, I'd still be less than buying another truck and the unknowns of that. Here, I know what I have. I was going to drop a used engine in it for around $400 or 500 but that one slipped through my fingers. If a used shows up, I will do that. I thought I'd drive it for a couple of more years with another engine in it then give it to a grand daughter as a first vehicle.
I bought a GUARANTEED 3.7 from a local salvage yard. After it was installed it was only hitting on 5 cylinders and when I pulled the nice clean valve cover off a set of rocker arms were broke off and the valve area was a mass of sludge. I got my money back for the engine but my time to install and the new water pump were my problem.
Mark - IN.
Well-known Member
If you are going to rebuild it, and you are going to take it to a machine shop, take it to the machine shop first and a bare minimum get the block hot tanked to clear passages. But beyond that, you'll want them to check the bores to see if they need to be turned over, say .010 and of course honed. You're not going to want to buy a rebuild kit first, because what if you buy Standard size and they have to go over .010, .020, .030? You're Standard bore rebuild kit won't do you a bit of good. You're going to want to have them check your journals on the cam and crank too. I'd have them go through the heads to look at valve guides, seats. You may want to have it all magnafluxed to look for cracks. You're asking question best asked of your local machine shop, and when you get done, when you consider the cost of your time, machining, and parts, you may find out that its cheaper to get a Jasper long block that will come with a warranty.
Good luck.
Mark
Good luck.
Mark
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
I built one for my personal use its was not a cheap engine to build Cam and lifters were a exspensive it needed a crank and bored.. I never was happy with the power are mileage.
Bryan inIowa
Member
they are kinda shocking price wise I did one for a customer way back ,88 3.9 . I about fell over how much parts were .
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
The one I had was abandon on me so what the ell lets make a shop truck out of it... The only thing that save me from the beating was the truck was pert-neer free... I wish I could remember what it cost to build it (my time was free) I am thinking 12/1600.
The state and court system have about priced fixing up vehicles the mechanics lean will run you $300 are more these days...
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
Not sure when the last year was for that engine family, but as old as it is, not likely you'll find a low mileage used engine.
I've never seen a rebuilt engine last very long, as in the exchange engines from the auto supply. They're built cheap, reground cams, welded up cranks, Chinese parts, etc...
Another option you might consider is buying a rebuildable core from a salvage yard, tear it down, check it out, have it ready for a quick change so the truck won't be down.
I've never seen a rebuilt engine last very long, as in the exchange engines from the auto supply. They're built cheap, reground cams, welded up cranks, Chinese parts, etc...
Another option you might consider is buying a rebuildable core from a salvage yard, tear it down, check it out, have it ready for a quick change so the truck won't be down.
Gambles
Well-known Member
Machine shop prices are all over the place, it's just that some are priced really high and some are priced really, really high.
Still, I had a talk with a machine shop owner who is in his 70s and he tells me that he's not making any money.
As far as the cost of the parts, please don't tell me that you will be buying DNJ replacement parts.
Still, I had a talk with a machine shop owner who is in his 70s and he tells me that he's not making any money.
As far as the cost of the parts, please don't tell me that you will be buying DNJ replacement parts.
CenTex Farmall
Well-known Member
The best thing is to start calling around then talk to people and shop on reputation. There are several engine "machine shops" in this area but only one is capable of putting out good work and from looking at the outside you would never believe it. A larger long time shop went under last year and the last few years they were turning out very mediocre work.
Winchester1
Member
- Location
- Vincennes, In
Remanufactured engines from Mexico have really hurt the machine shop industry as well as parts pricing. My machinist told me he paid $7. and change for a small block Chevy piston a few years ago, this part is now over $20.
My machinist is living on restoration business and "patch jobs" the former wants it as close to new as possible, the latter is nearly broke and wants it as cheap as possible.
Mexican rebuilds are hit and miss, for sure not as good as a quality automotive machine shop.
I suggest you go with a shop that has a good reputation rather than worry about a couple of hundred dollars. It is cheaper in the long run.
I tell my guy to fix it like it is his, he tends to manage down the middle of the road.
My machinist is living on restoration business and "patch jobs" the former wants it as close to new as possible, the latter is nearly broke and wants it as cheap as possible.
Mexican rebuilds are hit and miss, for sure not as good as a quality automotive machine shop.
I suggest you go with a shop that has a good reputation rather than worry about a couple of hundred dollars. It is cheaper in the long run.
I tell my guy to fix it like it is his, he tends to manage down the middle of the road.
I am retired machine shop owner. The cost of machinery & the workman comp laws in Illinois made it tough to keep good help. I was very lucky that I could run the crank grinder, boring & valve equipment myself. To be successful in the shop business you need to sell parts. We were straight forward with our customer. We would discount our labor to the customer if we sold the parts. Example , this was in 1986.If you bought the engine kit from us we would bore & finish hone a V8 Chev 350 for $80. Cleaning & crack check was extra. If you carried in your own parts we charged $ 112. We would have to check the block for wear & let them know what oversize they needed. Lot of times they would get the wrong kit or not complete kit. A lot of retail engine jobs the customer would have problems like main or rod caps switched. Engine rebuilding is not for a first timer. There is too much at stake here. I enjoyed the business and the good customer base we had. We turned away very little.
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