ford 8 n

Roy Grimsley · Jan 14, 2016

Just purchased a Ford 8 n and lift not working properly was low in fluid I added 3 gallons of tractor hydraulic fluid to fill it up but lift is slow and won't pick up but a couple hundred pounds. Didn't drain completely and new oil looks a little milky. Seen online where it's calls for 90 weight gear oil but lists alot of options. You think I should completely drain and refill with 90 weight.or any suggestions on what might be wrong

oc-18guy · Jan 14, 2016

if it's milky it probably has water in system which could be your problem especially if it is cold where you are. so I would get it good and warm and drain it and go from there.

ASEguy · Jan 14, 2016

If you go to the Ford N forum here you'll get lots of help. I believe you need the fluid that meets Ford's 134D spec. I picked mine up at Walmart.

fred goodrich · Jan 14, 2016

When they come in like that we drain and pull the hyd pump and give it a good flushing. Comes out fairly easy and then you can give it a good inspection. Easy pump to inspect and work on.

Leroy · Jan 14, 2016

Drain and flush, then if you are lucky it might work. But being that low as to take 3 gallons to bring up to full it has probably been low for long enough that it has not only dammaged the pump but also the bearings in the transmission and rear end. Hope you are lucky in that it hasn't done that And that milky look is water that you cannot get all out by just draining but need to flush to do that. And that water that made the milky look has possibly started rusting the bearings. And the gearshift boot is likely where the water came in and untill you added that fluid it probably was only running on water to lub the entire back half of the tractor and water is not a good lube. Like I say hope you are lucky. I have 2 Fords, a 44 2N bought new in May of 44 by Dad and a 41 9N not running that I need to get put together after new sleves. The hydrolic pump is the same in them.

ericlb · Jan 14, 2016

transmission, rear end and hydraulic on a N are all a common sump you need to drain all of them and replace the fluid, you can use 90 wt or hydraulic 134 the n dont care, the lift still may not work well and need to be rebuilt, or partially rebuilt if this turns out the be the case post on the n forum and they will talk you thru it, its not really that big of a job first there ate steps to determine what is leaking where they you need to take in order to find out exactly what needs to be done suggest you get a service manual from this site for the N as it will make it much easier to work on your tractor, there about as simple as a tractor gets so you will end up with a good usable machine when your done

hd6gtom · Jan 14, 2016

I had a old guy sell me 2 of those last week with the same problem, cost me 250.00 each. He didn't want to fix the hyd system and they had the typical would not start problem. I sold the tires to my pal with the tire shop and then sent them to the scrap yard. good luck with yours.

Ron-MO · Jan 14, 2016

Be careful replacing the fluid with the newer fluids, unless you know the seals are in good shape. That newer type fluid is much thinner than the old GL1 that they were designed to run. I made that mistake
once, and ended up oiling my clutch since the front seal was weak, and the new fluid was much thinner. Clutch almost immediately started sticking, until I changed back to the GL1 90 Wt oil, but I still ended
up replacing my clutch and the front tranny seal. There is also a pressure relief valve known to fail in bottom of pump assembly. Fairly easy to replace by parking on an incline and removing the PTO. Post
on the N forum for all the help on those as they helped me out a few times. The 8N I own is one my father purchased about 45 years ago, and I still use it for several chores. No live hydraulics, or PTO,
but it is still my main go to tractor for hauling wood, blading the road, or little chores.

old · Jan 14, 2016

As already said post this in the 9N/2N/8N forum down below and you will get a lot more good info.
That said pull the inspection plate off the one with the dip stick and have a look see to see where oil is moving. Good chance the lift cylinder need to be rebuilt. When doing that it is good to buy the new improved NAA type piston and rings

Ozlander · Jan 14, 2016

(quoted from post at 09:08:00 01/14/16) Be careful replacing the fluid with the newer fluids, unless you know the seals are in good shape. That newer type fluid is much thinner than the old GL1 that they were designed to run. I made that mistake
once, and ended up oiling my clutch since the front seal was weak, and the new fluid was much thinner. Clutch almost immediately started sticking, until I changed back to the GL1 90 Wt oil, but I still ended
up replacing my clutch and the front tranny seal. There is also a pressure relief valve known to fail in bottom of pump assembly. Fairly easy to replace by parking on an incline and removing the PTO. Post
on the N forum for all the help on those as they helped me out a few times. The 8N I own is one my father purchased about 45 years ago, and I still use it for several chores. No live hydraulics, or PTO,
but it is still my main go to tractor for hauling wood, blading the road, or little chores.

Oil is oil, Ford spec oil did not cause the oil leak. Too much oil and a bad seal did.

JerryS · Jan 14, 2016

If you opened it up, you would likely be amazed at the gunk that occupies all that space in your hydraulic pump, your differential and transmission. I dropped the pump on mine; you have to pull the PTO shaft to do that, so the rear end is open and accessible. I dipped out about two large coffee cans full of a 50-year accumulation of krap. I could actually scoop it out with my hand. I rinsed it with diesel, then flushed the entire thing with 5 gal. of diesel after I reassembled it. May not solve your problem, but if you have to drop the pump anyway by all means get it clean in there.

Ron-MO · Jan 14, 2016

Not sure if you were referring to my post, but yes, I had a weak seal, and yes the much thinner oil caused the leak. I put the GL1 back in, and leak slowed, and clutch
would then release. The sticking clutch, and extreme leak started immediately after the change.

ford 8 n

Roy Grimsley

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oc-18guy

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ASEguy

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fred goodrich

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Leroy

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ericlb

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hd6gtom

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Ron-MO

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old

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Ozlander

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JerryS

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Ron-MO

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